Please tell me about Harpenden/St Albans?

[duchessa]

We're moving back after many years abroad and after some really helpful advice from lovely MNers I think St Albans/Harpenden might be our best bets (we are hoping for charm/history, a vibrant high street, safe, near countryside but not rural, and commutable to London).

We have a decent rental budget - up to 4500 a month - and we have 3 DC who we'll have to find school places for! The kids are currently years 3 and 6, and one in preschool. A larger semi or detached with a decent garden would be the ideal, somewhere not too isolated as the kids are used to some level of walkability.

I'd love to hear everyone's opinions on both St A and Harpenden, maybe Berko, too? I've seen some people say St A is too hectic and has 'big city' issues with drugs and crime, while others say Harpenden is snobby/unwelcoming. Are there 'better' areas in both places, and also parts we should avoid?

Of course everyone's experience will be different but as we're pretty much moving 'blind' (we can't come for a recce due to the pandemic/quarantine requirements) I'd love some insight and opinions!
We've had a really challenging year and we're hoping for a soft landing, especially for the DC.

Thank you so much in advance x

I grew up in St Albans, moved back a couple of years ago after many years living in London and New York to raise our family. It is much busier than when I was growing up - traffic can be a problem and parking is an issue everywhere. Shopping is not the best, but there are some lovely independent places on the high street.

Like any city it is not crime and drug free, but the issues are not noticeably bad. Usually I feel very safe, and all in all it is still really lovely place to live (for us anyway). Close to both the capital and open countryside, bursting with history going back to Roman times, beautiful parkland, excellent state schools, loads of excellent pubs, shops and restaurants (outside of lockdown obviously!) and some beautiful leafy streets. Not cheap though - house and rental prices are sky high and there is still massive demand.

I also know Harpenden well, it's much smaller, quieter and more "genteel" - however it is super pretty, leafy and charming, with a lovely high street. Even pricier in parts than St Albans though. One stop further from London on the Thameslink, but at least you're more likely to get a seat, if and when commuting becomes a thing again!

At albans is really nice and a good place to bring kids up in my opinion

Thank you, that’s a good point about getting a seat! So hard to imagine getting on a packed train again 😆

I grew up in harpenden. I loved it. We lived in West Common but I went to school at St John Lawes- my parents never ever worried for my safety and I remember it being a pleasing walk with parks, open spaces and being really leafy.

When older going to at Albans on the train was something to do or London’s when much older. If I could afford to I would move back in a heartbeat but my wages don’t stretch to harpenden sadly.

If you've got a yr 6 dc you'll have missed the application for secondary. Places aren't easy to come by for yr 7s so this may well sway your choice for where to live

Harpenden is lovely but pretty snobby. St Albans really nice. Berko is so superficial, changed beyond recognition in the last 30 years. It's like North London, but that might suit if what your after 🤷

I was always a South Londoner before moving overseas so not sure Berko would suit if it’s an extension of North London 😬😆

That’s a good point about Year 7. I need to call the council to find out about late applications 🤯. So many things to consider, and such a challenging time to be making such a big move!

I grew up in St A and still have family there. Still pretty fancy and expensive from what I can see. Harpenden was slightly posher, but short on secondary places (there were always stories of kids getting sent several towns away) so possibly not a good option for you. St A has a mix of C of E / catholic / secular secondaries, plus mixed or co ed. Frances Bacon (now Samuel Ryder?) was always a bit dodgy. Beaumont or Sandringham for mixed, Stags or Verulam for single sex. Although some of my knowledge is a bit out of date.
Downsides are rush hour traffic and that, as a commuter town, it can be a bit of a ghost town during the day.

How about Hitchin. Get more for your money but an lovely market town. Safe not over snobby or posh. Decent schools.

Harpenden is shockingly expensive and the
Middle class entitled are there in droves. No social distancing as long as they get to meet chums in the town centre.

St Albans traffic is awful and the shops gone down hill too of late.

Hitchin’s a good shout. Lovely market town. It always feels like it has a good atmosphere about it.
Harpenden is very cliquey wrt parents and schools. It’s all old money vs new money 🙄 very snobbish and with people permanently offended at everything.
St Albans is like any other city. If you look outside the immediate city there’s some nice areas.

Longdistance: sorry, but I have to disagree there. I've lived in a fair few cities :)

St Albans has very few not nice areas. The New Greens estate in the north-west of the city can be a bit iffy, but it borders on Batchwood and the Harpenden Road which is gorgeous.
The Camp also is a bit "estate-y" but also has some lovely bits and for the most part is very safe and friendly.

A sizeable proportion of the city, from centre to outskirts, is really very attractive. Some is downright stunning. Also, the Clock Tower

duchessa

You would loathe Harpenden if you are a South Londoner then, honest to God it's just full to the brim of entitled, Range Rover driving yummy yoga mum's, I wouldn't live there if it was the last place on earth tbh. St Albans much more normal but yes traffic grim. Who knows these days though with so many wfh? Might be better. Been a while since I was last there.

@Aloamilk that’s so unfair. I grew up there and still have friends living there. We are a mixed race family - my parent’s had no concept of British ways of life when we arrived in 1988 and people were so welcome. I had friends from every background and income base and lived there until 2003. Current fiends work as maintenance man for local electricity provider and other friend works as manager for the garden centre. They are as normal and friendly as can be. I now live in the West Midlands and don’t really notice a people difference in terms of snobbishness when I drive down to meet friends. I do however notice the crazy, insane house prices on Rightmove though! It’s clearly wealthier than where I live now but not unfriendly.

Shadowboy

That's really interesting and good to hear. I do think there's definitely a different side to be experienced to living in every place ☺️

@ColdTattyWaitingForSummer

I grew up in St A and still have family there. Still pretty fancy and expensive from what I can see. Harpenden was slightly posher, but short on secondary places (there were always stories of kids getting sent several towns away) so possibly not a good option for you. St A has a mix of C of E / catholic / secular secondaries, plus mixed or co ed. Frances Bacon (now Samuel Ryder?) was always a bit dodgy. Beaumont or Sandringham for mixed, Stags or Verulam for single sex. Although some of my knowledge is a bit out of date. Downsides are rush hour traffic and that, as a commuter town, it can be a bit of a ghost town during the day.

A new Harpenden secondary school opened in sept 2019 so there’s no longer a problem regarding lack of school places. Lots of hate for Harpenden ,but always a shortage of available properties for sale/rent (even at extortionate prices) so plenty of people must like it. Local pub with rooms was (over summer post lockdown) full of people looking to move out from London.

I love St Albans as its a lovely small city centre but awful traffic; one of my favourite big towns to go to round here though. . Harpenden smaller and a nice quiet centre with St Albans Close enough if you want a bit more to do. I would test renting there and see how it fits

Agree that Berko is snobby and very London.

If you’re commuting into London you might want to check the cost of season tickets on Thameslink. It’s a very expensive commute.

Thanks for all the advice on this thread, it seems that Berko is a no-no (we definitely don't want to be surrounded by snobby North London exiles!) but we're still struggling to find a rental in St A or Harpenden. It seems that half of the UK is also looking for places there!

Would recommend both areas and echo what others say. I would say crime in either place are relatively low compared to national average. As others mentioned, ensure you have done research into secondary school place provision. St Albans is more mixed with a small city feel, where Harpenden is smaller and has a very affluenf feel, less choice of affordable properties. If you don't mind driving to the station, there are some local villages, Redbourn, Wheathampstead and Kimpton are good options, plus a little less pricey. All are good places for families.