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Unvented cylinder vs combi boiler

34 replies

Misty9 · 03/09/2020 19:32

My plumber, who is installing a new bathroom for me, has suggested that I have a few choices to get the best water pressure for a shower:

  • leave hot water cylinder as is, but install pump for the shower. Problem may be small cylinder so would empty quickly, so possibly get a bigger one
  • replace with unvented cylinder. Good water pressure and no pump needed.
  • replace boiler completely with a combi. Most expensive but end up with good water pressure. Could then resite boiler from loo to loft, and lose cylinder and tank.

Current cylinder is dark green and quite small. Only me and two dc under 10, but they will get older and want showers too eventually.

Any opinion as to the best option?! Budget isn't a major issue.

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 04/09/2020 21:33

I can't read the labels on the boiler, but I see it is a Condenser and has a digital display, so not an antique.

There may possibly be some kind of label on the bottom that you can read. Otherwise the service person will be able to find the model and date. As it is not a combi it might last quite well. I can't see a pressure gauge so it may be an open-vent conventional, which is about as simple as you can get (not much to go wrong) but needs to be kept clean.

Misty9 · 04/09/2020 22:47

It's this I think, so you're right www.wolseley.co.uk/product/glow-worm-flexicom-hx-heat-only-boiler-15he/

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Misty9 · 05/09/2020 13:13

Okay, I've only got a jug but it filled 1litre in 3.75secs. Can you extrapolate from that @PigletJohn?!

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PigletJohn · 05/09/2020 14:02

It will not be accurate, but I make that 16lpm. Possibly the tap is restricting it. 20lpm is sufficient for an unvented cylinder if you want one. You'll run a 20mm pipe all the way from the incoming stopcock to the cylinder to minimise restrictions. A garden tap is worth testing, if you have one.

How old is the house?

What colour is the incoming water pipe? Is it plastic? Photograph the outdoor and the indoor stopcock please.

Misty9 · 06/09/2020 17:33

@PigletJohn

It will not be accurate, but I make that 16lpm. Possibly the tap is restricting it. 20lpm is sufficient for an unvented cylinder if you want one. You'll run a 20mm pipe all the way from the incoming stopcock to the cylinder to minimise restrictions. A garden tap is worth testing, if you have one.

How old is the house?

What colour is the incoming water pipe? Is it plastic? Photograph the outdoor and the indoor stopcock please.

The house is 1950s. Where would I find the stopcocks and the water pipe...? Blush one of these?
OP posts:
Misty9 · 06/09/2020 17:37

Or this leads to the outside tap?

Unvented cylinder vs combi boiler
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MarieG10 · 06/09/2020 17:53

List to @PigletJohn but personally...with teenagers assume lots of showers and baths!

We have a vented hot water cylinder with thermostatic shower and separate pump. Had this set up for years and it is brilliant. If the water is on when showering we have never run out of water yet and we have had four showers on the trot at times.

We have rentals some of which have combi boilers. I wouldn't have one if you want a decent shower.

Not experienced a pressured cylinder although tempted. Just worried I won't get the pressure we get with a pumped shower as is dependent on the mains pressure being good

PigletJohn · 06/09/2020 18:06

the thing leading to the outside tap is a stopcock. Observe its unique sloping shoulder (a stopcock is designed so it will turn off the supply even if the washer is perished, or falls off, and might last a hundred years). This one you will see is bigger at the incoming side, a good sign, as it means you have a larger incoming pipe and can increase the size of your stopcock and internal pipes for improved flow. Sometimes the stopcock has the pipe size moulded into it, in mm or in inch fractions.

But your outside tap one is not for the whole house, it will typically be under the sink, or under the hall floor. Sometimes there are two or more of them in the house, for example where one has seized or has been walled up by a kitchen fitter so it is no longer accessible (this is very tiresome)

There may also be some little ball valves like this They are almost invariably of very poor quality (observe the price). Not only will they leak for no particular reason, they have a very small aperture inside which obstructs water flow and can become noisy. If you have any of these they should be replaced with full-bore valves such as these which are ten times the price and a hundred times as good. The T-handle ones are fairly small and neat and can be operated without tools. As they are generally full-bore they do not obstruct flow, which is important when you need good flow from an unvented cylinder or combi.

Can you guess which ones economy-minded plumbers usually fit?

The colour and material if the supply pipe is important. In a very old house it may be lead or iron, which will be liable to leak due to age. Or it may be copper in a small and restictive size. Or it may be black or blue plastic, which tends to give better flow as it is probably free of connectors or elbows, and may be in a bigger size.

A 1950's house probably has a half-inch-internal copper pipe, which is more or less adequate but not designed for a generous flow. If you can measure it, the external diameter is about 15mm. It can be an advantage to dig a trench out to the pavement a lay a new, larger plastic pipe. People who do this are often astonished at the improvement and delighted at the performance of their unvented cylinder.

HaggyMaggie · 06/09/2020 18:52

My combi is only a problem if two people want to go in the shower at once (different bathrooms) - its rare though and still doable just the water becomes a bit sparser.

One bathroom? I’d not have a problem with a combi, but PJ is the expert and i would listen to him.

Also my house is 30 yers old, so only every had combi boilers and my loft is converted so a tank would be a PIA.

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