New Wooden Garage Door?

[vicster50]

Hello,

Please could someone suggest the best way to go about getting a new wooden side door for a garage? Its pictured below and both the door and the wooden support frame that clips onto the concrete prefab really need replacing. Ideally with a lock in both the door & frame as well.

ibb.co/YfJwdNy
ibb.co/bRf6bk8
ibb.co/qymCHMZ

Can you buy these made to size, fairly easy DIY or something that's worth finding a carpenter for?

If anyone has any thoughts on costs that would be really helpful.

Thanks :)

I had one made to measure by a local joiner (there is a local college with a joinery section, so there are quite a few around). I have an idea he charged about £80. That's a ledged, braced and framed door, very popular for outbuildings.

I supplied the lock and hinges.

Try to get a local recommendation from someone you know and trust. Asvertising websites are not personal recommendations, even if they disguise themselves as such.

Two people can easily lift it on and off a car roof rack, one person, if stronger than average.

I've seen joinery workshops advertising on ebay at similar prices. Try to get one with mortice and tenon joints.

The diagonal braces are intended to prevent them sagging, but they do tend to, especially if exposed to the weather. If you use hook and band hinges it is easy to put extra stainless steel washers on the pins to lift them a bit.

It will last longer if protected from rain, even by a small canopy.

The timber will expand and contract with humidity, so rather than paint, which will crack, a wood preservative and/or breathing stain will look better. You can lift it off and lie it flat to treat.

I can suggest suitable locks and hinges if you want.

edit

you will need a carpenter to fit it. S/he might charge in the region of £100, or as a day which will be more. Ask first as they may recommend a supplier. I like to treat frames with timber preserver before fitting as you will never be able to reach the hidden surfaces afterwards. Doorframes are inexpensive and usually come with a hardwood sill. The door supplier should have them.

Thanks very much, that's really helpful.

I think I will try and find a local carpenter who can both measure supply and fit.

On the preserving side, can/should you paint after using a timber preserver? Or best just to leave it in the treated state/colour?

If you use "Cuprinol Clear Wood Preserver" you can paint or stain it after it is fully dried. it does not contain colour or water repellent, it is purely a preserver.

If you intend to use shed and fence stain in future, you can use "Cuprinol Ultimate Garden Wood Preserver" which is coloured.

But in my opinion, the "Clear" is better. It is spirit-based, not water, and it soaks in deeply, and does not weather off the surface. Timber Preservers are intentionally poisonous and contain chemical to kill rot and insects, and are more expensive than ordinary fence treatments which are mostly water. Sometimes you can find an own-brand preserver at Wickes or a builders merchant, you can gauge how effective it is by reading the safety panel. An effective preserver will show warnings and chemical names. Use gloves, safety glasses, washable overalls, and clean any splashes off the skin. Like you would with bleach or drain cleaner. Treat the top and bottom edges (which are usually neglected) after planing.

As for locks, if the door is made with a 44mm thickness, you can fit a mortice lock, preferably a British Standard 5-lever Sashlock. The Union one is good value. If you particularly want a rimlock, most are pressed steel and pretty useless bu there is a good Marston.