How to hide fridge freezer that’s not integrated

[Redandblue123]

I will be buying a new kitchen and have a fridge freezer that’s tall and big. I need more work space so I will be putting it in the living room (I have an open plan kitchen and living room. However it will most likely have to go behind some cupboards to look integrated.

However I don’t want to buy an integrated fridge freezer as the one I have is brand new and I’ve heard the integrated are hard to fix.

Is there a cheat I can do? I know with non integrated smaller appliances you can increase the depth of the worktop.

I expect if is 600mm wide.

It's possible to get matching doors that are a little wider, or a carpenter can add a little with matching trim. I doubt you will get anything off the shelf.

Again, a carpenter can make a dummy cabinet (you need sides but you don't need a top and bottom) of any dimensions you desire. Benjamin James and others make them using good-quality laminated board, same is us used for factory cabinets, in a wide range of colours and finishes. Delivery cost is high if you only buy one thing. For large cabs, have them delivered unassembled.

The units come in 700mm wide. DIY kitchens do them as the shell , so I think if I make the door connect to the plynth it will be ok.

Surely if you build it in it will invalidate the guarantee and overheat ? You need to give it air space all around.

Sell yours and buy an integrated one they are designed to be built in and have a cooling fan. Utter rubbish that they are more difficult to fix.

would it go on the end of a run of units and then you can use the side as a blackboard/magnetic storage sort of thing?

if you google chalkboard fridge there's loads of ideas.

I have an American fridge freezer, not built in. Like this image below, flanked either side by tall larder units and one going across the top. But the larder units are 60cm deep and the one going across the top is a wall cabinet so only 37cm deep. I was told that to prevent overheating I had to allow air flow above the fridge freezer.

images.app.goo.gl/BAfrkd8AWGyr3q6r8

Sell yours and buy an integrated one. As for hard to fix you mean install? Because they are not. Hard to fix when they break down? No different than having to pull out a free standing one surely?

it is quite normal for a freestanding FF to be placed between two full-height units. This is no different from ornamental side panels. The instructions will tell you how big a ventilation space it needs at the back and sides. It will not be in an actual cabinet so there will not be a top. The bottom ornamental door can be slightly above the floor so air can enter.

Nah it will look like a bodge job . I know you are well respected on these threads PigletJohn but on this one I'd have to disagree. Beside kitchen company's don't make doors wider than 600mm due to the weight of them.
DIY and most other companies make 700 base or wall cabinets but not tall cabinets .

why? just means an extra door to open. A fridge is a big white thing, it isn't really that ugly.

My kitchen has a non-integrated tall fridge, the cabinet was built to lift it up so far less bending. Obviously no front on it, and sufficient airspace left all around as part of the design. The space will take an integrated one if this one fails, as there aren't too many alternatives available. But hope not as integrated = form over function = not very good.

What you need is one of these to hide it...

www.amazon.com/Daniel-Craig-Cardboard-Cutout-SC2034/dp/B073LS1V7F?tag=mumsnetforu03-21

Lol^

My fridge is lovely it’s just I need the extra space in the kitchen for worktops.

I would do the non integrated/American style unit but the FF would be stored in the dining room, so it will look weird.

So looks like I will be getting an integrated FF. I hate them though.

Is there really no space for it in the kitchen? Having the fridge some distance away, even if it’s in the same room, would drive me mad.

I have a small open plan kitchen and it’s connected to the dining room. So I need that extra 60cm of worktop space.

you can use 650 wide doors and these are easy to get hold of made to measure.
If using blum hinges? that is what the reccommend on the widest door for there hinges regardless of height and material.
if you need to gain a few extra cm's go for inset hinges and use the end panels as the external of the unit.
Done this many times with doors 2400 high for washing machines and tumbles stacked.
Idea.... is to get primed doors and panels and paint the same as the room you are putting it in depending on how your room/design etc is to suit.
Companies that make 700 wide units are out of 2 x 350 doors by the time you have purchased 2 x tall end panels 4 x doors (top + base) that come set sizes, it will work out less just buying a bespoke door and panels customed so you dont have to do any cutting for the fitter

Thanks. I’m buying from DIY kitchens and they don’t have those specs.

I’ve actually moved the FF and I love it in its new position. I also love the openness of the FF so ideally I don’t want to box of.

@seewhatyoudoing you sound like you’ve done this a few times. Do you mind answering these questions:

1. my kitchen is at a slight angle and in the form of a horseshoe (one side is slightly longer than another). It I buy a corner wall unit, will the fitter be able to fit the unit so it fits at an angle? Ditto the corner base units.

2. I have a freestanding washing machine. I can buy a dry fit unit with a 700cm door, do I also need to make the depth of the worktops increased from the standard 60cm?

3. I’d there is a slight gap either side of the range cooker, will the fitter be able to fill the gap with the worktop and a strip along the side. Basically there is about 15cm between the units and the range cooker.

DIY wont as very standard sizes.

1 - fitter can do this by using a batton to square up so you will lose the few cm of room being out
or.........
can fit the units to run with the walls and use an angle filler flush with doors but i doubt you will get the correct width filler with off the shelf so if cut will leave a raw edge meaning would have to be set back to the units. It works but not the look i would want as i like all fillers flush with doors.

2 - You can't buy a 700 wide door from DIY
You need 2 x 345 doors
I wouldnt even bother buying a dry fit unit as not needed. All you need is the sides
so.......
Buy 2 x base end panels 870/890 x 650 in carcass material not kitchen front material and 2 x 715 x 345 doors + 4 blum hinges.
If buying from DIY
Yes depth will need to be approx 2cm infront of the machine depth + the door so you would be looking at approx 650mm depth top depending on depth of machine

3 - 15cm = shocking planning
Its not a small space to waste considering you have mentioned you have a small room but depending on corner unit you are using it will be visually better to extend the fillers on the corner units esp if your trying to get the cooker central, being one of the 1st things your eyes will be drawn to within the room.
Have you any visuals of design?

3. shocking planning? I can get it down to 5cms but I’m unsure if there is enough room. I do have a visual from the DIY website and I can’t get my head around the room not being a perfect shape. Also who knows if my measuring is accurate, I try but surely a laser is better.