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Removing a cupboard to fit an inter grated freezer in, how hard is it?.

5 replies

Fluffycloudland77 · 16/12/2019 18:08

I need a second freezer & I’m willing to lose a cupboard to do so rather than traipse out to the garage.

Is it a big job? Could I do it on my own?.

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 16/12/2019 18:29

why do you want an integrated one?

can you still get a matching ornamental panel to fit?

BigusBumus · 16/12/2019 18:30

My mum had a handy man do this fo her. He used the cupboard door on the front and inserted a vent thing into the kick board at the bottom. It was fairly easy I think.

Fluffycloudland77 · 16/12/2019 18:45

@PigletJohn Because my other freezer is intergrated & I like things to match.

I’ve checked the cupboard doors and they are the same for the fridge etc as a normal panel.

I don’t think we’d need a vent, the other freezer doesn’t have one, it vents when you open the door.

My plan was;

Take out cupboard carcass door etc.
Cut plug off freezer.
Fit freezer.
Drill hole for cable.
Thread through to socket behind microwave, fit new plug.
Fit door to freezer.
Replace kick board.
Hope dh doesn’t complain too much when he finds out.

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 16/12/2019 19:23

you may find it easier to run the appliance into the space with two people. An undercounter freezer you can probably move on your own, but not so easy when it is going under a worktop. I've known floors get rubbed or scratched, which spoils the surface on wood or especially vinyl. Put a big piece of cardboard on the floor. The freezer carton will do.

Try to get the installation instructions before you buy andread through to see how to do it.

The vent is to enable air to circulate past the back of the appliance where the warm coils or flat back are. Otherwise the heat can't get out. You need around a letterbox size gap top and bottom.

MillStone · 16/12/2019 21:31

Your plan is sound enough. The fiddly bit is fitting the freezer door bracket to the door. Though you get a template. A bradawl also helps.

Sounds like your current freezer has an air inlet above the kick plate with a space between the door for air flow. My fridge and freezer are like this which is good because it means it’s not necessary to scribe the kick plate.

The only thing I’d be mindful of is the worktop. Especially if it’s stone. What’s either side of the unit you’re removing and will there be enough support after you remove it. Fine if it’s more rigid units but if it’s another integrated appliance maybe not so. Might need a wall batten too.

The worktop might be siliconed to the top of the carcass too.

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