Kitchen island plug sockets....

[Chickenandegg8]

Hi,
We’re having a kitchen island in our new kitchen and I’m struggling with plug sockets.
I’ve attached a plan of the island. We’ve been told we can only have them either at A or B as that’s where voids are. Otherwise the back boxes would stick out 2-3 cms out of the end panels of the cupboards.

If we go for A we would may need an extension lead to to reach near the hob and possibly seating area depending on wire length, as the wire would need to come over the overhang of the island .
If we go for B we would need an extension lead to reach the seating area if someone is sat at the island and wants to charge tablet/ phone etc...
I’ve been told that my island is a very odd shape with seating where it is.... I can’t really believe that but I don’t know where else to put any sockets.... any advice anyone?
We don’t want the pop up sockets in the middle of the island....
thanks

We had a similar challenge on a small 40cm overhang - I just installed an angled under cabinet socket - even with tall stools there is plenty of clearance for knees! Just google "under cabinet socket" e.g. www.ukelectricalsupplies.com/knightsbridge-stainless-steel-13a-2-gang-under-cabinet-socket-with-dual-usb-charger-grey-insert.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shop&utm_campaign=feed&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt_PuBRDcARIsAMNlBdrXQrhdVk7roQqPMxGOo_afqmSrSWh3h8xlL0yh-a9-rgAODNr3LIsaAi5wEALw_wcB

You will only then need drill a hole and route the mains cable which should have a few options - there is usually some space at the back top of units

If you've got an 18mm end panel, clad over an 18mm cabinet. Then fit a 25mm metal back box cut through the end panel, and partially route out to depth the cabinet. You won't see the back of the box inside the cabinet, the cables can also be routed into the woodwork, or run in conduit inside the cabinet. photos.app.goo.gl/Rfpz925swQYkfQhe9

check out this thread
www.mumsnet.com/Talk/property/3672616-Home-extension-2019-the-Third-thread-Drowning-in-Dust?pg=8
disussing island sockets
See the post by
WorrisomeHeart Mon 28-Oct-19 17:03:52
And her photos a few posts later

Hi. I'm not an electrician but I'm an experienced renovator and have had socket/island issues in the past.

1. You know you can fit a back box in locations A and B.
2. You have been told these are the only possible locations. This may be true but equally the installer may have only considered a standard depth backbox and depending on your choice of front plate you might be able to use shallower ones. This may open up new locations.

C. There is no good reason that I can see that you can't have both A and B. The reason mooted is presumably to do with cabling. It should be entirely possible to run cables to both locations. There are two cabling methods. One is a ring where the cable runs to one socket then the other and then back out of the island again. The other is a spur where it runs from one socket to the other and terminates. The latter option has many restrictions attached and will depend on your exact scenario. Only an electrician can decide that. In both cases the cables should be able to clear the runners. Particularly as the existence of the void in the first place and the reasons for voids existing due to how islands are made up of base cabinets makes it probable you have a route to the floor so can run underneath. D. The socket under the countertop will be used less for phones than you think. In it's absence everyone will simply use any other socket. But it will be useful to have a socket where you will be preparing food on that side albeit it sucks that it's under the countertop. I would remove some drawers and do my own investigations on if it could go somewhere else on that side. Maybe with a shallower box.

I hope this helps.

OP, I have a very similar layout on the overhang end of my island and have 2 double sockets. Will attach a photo to show you.

It's not particularly tidy under there though! (Should probably sort it out instead of lazing about on MN).

Oh that’s exactly what I’d like! Where is your back box EastCoastDamsel? Is it in your cupboards?
😊

One is in the back of the pan drawers so not visible. The other is in the side of a cupboard but not at all intrusive.

@EastCoastDamsel though unintrusive I would prefer to see those holes on the back filed with some kind of Sealant or boxed in to stop little (or even big) fingers getting in. Those boxes aren't designed to be exposed at the back like this which may be why the op's electrician is being awkward about it.

I thought the only trades person allowed to offer any paid advice or service for electrics in a kitchen HAD to be a Part P certified electrician ?

Hi just a thought why not put then under the over hang . Ie low profile sockets under the bench hang over

Thanks @stevefromdonny don't worry about being intrusive. I will check with my sparky tomorrow

@666onmyhead actually all electrics much comply with part p but the work in the kitchen only needs registering to the council if its a new circuit to the consumer unit.
It did used to be everything but like for like replacement but it's much more relaxed nowadays.

But I'd second the comment that the back of the back box needs to be covered in some way, those holes are massive. The holes in normal socket fronts are smaller than that and they still have to have shutters on them.

If you double up on end panels that should buy you enough thickness to embed the back boxes into the double layer. That way you have no exposed back box like the pic above and also means you can have drawers as the back box won’t interfere with the runners.

Downside - you will need to buy extra end panels and also of course you will see the extra thickness from the front. Plus you lose a tiny bit of overhang space.

A similar alternative is you buy one extra end panel and get your fitter to chop it up and use it to box out the end panel a little way. (say 15mm)