Can you identify these radiators?

[mommybear1]

Hi

I’m looking for some help settling a disagreement with my DH - I think this is a single radiator, he thinks it’s a double - can anyone confirm please? We are looking to change this radiator to the next one up ie if it’s a single we want a double - can this be done if this is the “end” radiator? I know that this radiator is the last one on the connection as it’s not got a TDR etc.

TIA

I think it is a single . It only has one internal metal fin from your above view.

Brilliant thanks @AnneKipanki that was my thinking

I think it looks like a double to me, despite the one fin - it looks like there is another rad at the back from the pic. I.e. double panel, single convector as described here www.bestheating.com/info/whats-the-difference-between-single-double-panel-convectors/

double theres a front and back panel

Sorry for the misinformation . If it has 2 fins it is classed as double convector .
It does have 2 panels but only one convector so it is a double.

A double rad has a front and back panel with 2 internal fins , a double plus has front and back panel with 1 internal fin and a single has 1 panel and 1 fin . They are also known as a DP, DP+ and a single or a 22,21 and an 11 . Work at a plumbers merchant

Thanks very much everyone. So are we saying this radiator is a double plus @Starbonnet123 as it has a front and back panel with 1 internal fin? If so would an upgrade of that then be a triple? Thanks

To upgrade a double panel single fin you would go to a double panel double fin , after that it would be a triple which are usually special order and tend to be limited sizes . Have a look at purmo compact radiators or stelrad . If you have a plumbase near you they can help .

It you go up to a type 22, Double panel double convector, it won't make a difference to the boiler as it has 2 panels like yours so no increase in water needed to fill etc assuming you get same size.
The difference is that it will stick out from the wall more. Hopefully you'll have enough wiggle room on your pipes to deal with that.

if you lift the top grille off you can see the component parts. The grille, and the end panels, are loosely fitted and can easily be removed and replaced. They are made so they fit together to prevent them falling off. You can clean them if you want, or poke your feather duster between and behind the fins.

p.s.

it looks like your radiator pipes come up through the floor. Is it a concrete floor? If so the pipes won't move and it will be difficult to fit a rad of different size.

As you already have a double, I don't think you'll get much extra heat from another row offins.

Is the rad fully hot, front and back, top and bottom, sides and middle? It should be "too hot to hold for long" all over, and the flow (incoming) pipe should be "too hot to hold"

If not, it can be fixed by cleaning or adjustment.

Thanks @Starbonnet123 I will take a look.

Thanks for all the responses.

@PigletJohn thankfully this one is upstairs with floorboards. Disappointing to hear another fin won't help the heat, yes it's is hot all over and too hot to hold when the heating is pumped to the max. The difficulty is I don't think the original plumber took into account the full size and issues in the room it is fitted in - it has three external walls, an eaves cupboard (which we have fully insulated), plus a dorma window. Our best guess is that the dorma is not well insulated and the radiator is not sufficient to heat the room - we fitted new double glazing when we renovated but didn't realise the issue with the dorma (the reason we think it's that is because the walls are notably cold to the touch). We have put so much insulation in the loft above the room it's now completely covered and height wise runs to the roof to help (we went all out as it's the baby's room). We put an oil radiator in there to help warm the room and with the heating going and the oil radiator set to 20 we can get it warm (and ideal for the baby) but really I'd like to have just the central heating, heating that room.

No radiator expertise but surely you are better looking at the BTUs (a measure of heat transfer) produced by a potential replacement. All radiators are not the same and a better one might produce significantly more heat if yours is shit?

There are online BTU calculators to give you an idea how many BTUs are needed

blinds and curtains (preferably both) will cut heat loss through windows.

You could have the dorma cheeks and ceiling lined with insulated plasterboard. even an inch will cut heat loss significantly. It is a slab of rigid foam bonded to a plasterboard face.

Next time the room is being comprehensively decorated, you could get a plasterer in, take off the old plasterboard dorma lining, insulate the gap, and replaster it. At least 50mm of foam, or 100mm if there is room, and stuff any gaps permitting cold air to circulate with scraps torn off a roll of loft insulation (get the brown type, treated with Ecose, which does not shed irritant dust and fibres). Mineral wool is much cheaper than foam, but needs to be twice as thick. It is very food for stuffing in gaps and under floors because it will pack tightly into irregular gaps and block draughts.

You might be able to hire an infra-red camera that will show cold spots on wall, ceilings etc, but I don't know about them. Whoever changes your radiator may know. They are very popular among upmarket heating engineers.

A modern column style radiator will likely have a higher btu than that one without needing to be bigger. We did that replacement of a radiator similar to yours and actually went for a shorter height as the existing radiator went right up to the windowsill and the difference in the amount of heat it throws out is immense.

An extra set of fins does give you a greater heat output eg 600x1200 single gives 4169 btu , a 600x1200 type 21 2panel 1 fin gives 5486 btu and adding the extra fin to make a double gives an output of 6998 btu .
You need to measure your room to find the actual btu requirements of the room and go from there .