How long would it take me to strip architraves back to bare wood?

[boringlyboring]

Or just easier to replace?

I painted my architraves earlier this year, and I either didn’t do a great job of the prep or the previous layers of paint are too much. It’s just bumpy and uneven, and even with fresh paint they look 100 years old.

I have tried chemical stripper on a part of it, and found it too messy. I’m thinking of getting a heat gun to strip it back to bare wood completely. I know this will be a slow process, but am wondering how slow? I have 6 architraves and frames to do.

It’s either this or just replace them completely (and pay someone to paint them this time!) but the second option will be quite pricey obviously.

Also, while we’re here, any tips on using a heat gun?

I have used Peelaway 1 paint stripper on woodwork and cast iron with really good results. It's a thick paste, you apply it and cover with the provided paper sheet to create a poultice which doesn't dry out. Leave for a few hours/overnight and it peels off the layers of paint.

Attached (hopefully!) is a picture of my initial test patch on skirting - house built in 1907, many many paint layers. I had just peeled off the test patch and wiped with a damp cloth.

hot air gun is slow..... and depends on number of layers... think it took me 2 days to do each one (but were large sash)

thank you awkward I’d seen that but assumed it was similar to the normal strippers that you have to scrape. I will try to get a tester pot and see how it goes.

Did you use it on none flat wood at all? Wondering if it would get a good grip on the curves and corners of the architraves.

avery is it atleast ‘easy’ to scrape off? It looks likes the paint just glides off on videos but I’m not the most experienced with this stuff.

It's nothing like nitramors or other liquid paint strippers. Much more effective. I used it on a doorframe too (typical Victorian/Edwardian carved pattern). I had to use a screwdriver to scrape the paste out of the crevices but came away pretty easily. Took a bit more time to apply and to ensure there were no airbubbles than the flat skirting but worked well. I've attached a picture of the re-painted frame and another frame I haven't done yet. I think you can see more details without several layers of gloss!

Found a photo of the frame after stripping!

Thanks awkward that’s really helpful. The frame looks good as new!

how old is your house?

If the existing architrave is modern it wil be quicker and easier to replace with new.

Piglet John, it’s a 1950s terrace but I’m not sure if the wood is as old.

It’s an ogee style, whereas in similar houses with old woodwork I’ve noticed it tends to be the flat type (might be wrong though, just an assumption)

you can probably still get a replacement that's the same or similar. Older ones tend to be wider than modern. I prefer the wider fancier ones due to upbringinging. There are doubtless people in the "1950's House Preservation Society" (there is bound to be one) who know the original style if you want to replicate it.

Simpler doors go with simpler architrave.

DIY sheds have a small selection, timber merchants may have more. Examples and there are specialist suppliers of skirtings and other mouldings, one of which has a bad reputation. I'd buy enough to do the whole house if you will be decorating the other rooms later. If you fit it with a thin slot-headed screw it will be easier to remove in future, and if you drill the architrave first, it will be less likely to split than if nailed.

BTW when you take it off, you may find gaps between doorfame and wall, especially if teenage girls have lived in the house. I can explain how to foam them.

ps

of my examples, select a length (such as 1.8 metres ) to see the price. Some places sell kits of two sides and a head, which are usually dearer. You just need a backaw and a mitre box, unless you have fancy cutting equipment.