Wood worktops and Osmo Top Oil

[taybert]

We’re planning a new kitchen which is going to take quite a bit of building/structural work to get the room right so we’re not going to be flush for the actual kitchen. I’m not terribly keen on laminate worktops and would like an under mounted sink. Granite/quartz/composite is too expensive. I like the look of wood worktops but am put off by reviews of warping, staining and black marks but have read good reviews about Osmo top/Polyx oil to treat them.

Has anyone successfully used Osmo oil on a wooden worktop which has lived to tell the tale? How is it around the sink? Is an under mounted sink with a wooden worktop a terrible idea?

Also oak is very sensitive to going black in contact with water and iron because of the tannins, that’s why it stains, it isn’t mould.

We have wood worktops and like a pp said, you have to be so careful. I hate them.

Can not wait to replace the kitchen. Never again.

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think I’ve abandoned the idea of an undermounted sink and will consider taps carefully. We’re also planning to get a freestanding island with a dark granite top so that will be where serving of curry etc happens so reducing the chance of stains. I’m also very shouty so everyone will be too scared to touch anything .

wineymummy that tap is genius!

Sorry to butt in on the thread but for those of you who’ve sanded their oiled worktops back to the bare wood how long did this take you? I’ve tried sanding a section of ours again and again with the roughest grade sandpaper but it hasn’t made much difference. Is there an easier way? I’ve got worktop express oak worktops coated in clear Ronseal oil and quite frankly they look like shit, really dark and rough.

@CoolShoeshine ours had been treated with Danish oil and I used an electric sander. It didn't take long but I did have to replace the sandpaper. Once sanded, clean down with methylated spirits, let it dry and do the first coat of Osmo so it cures overnight as it takes 12 hours. The second coat you only have to wait four hours.

I've recoated the most used section of worktop again since then but that just needed wiping down and a light sand. I used the satin finish Osmo.

Oh and when you sand you work from rough to smoother but you stop at something like 120 grade or otherwise you close the grain and whatever you use can't penetrate the wood sufficiently.

There is an Osmo undercoat that I put on then I put on the osmo top oil

I can’t recall the undercoat name but it’s worked well on iroko full stave

I have ten year old bamboo worktops and used danish oil on them.
I made a point of putting three coats of oil onto every surface (especially the cut out for where the sink would go) before they were fitted
and have no warping or anything.
THey look a bit tired, but its a working kitchen.
Once every couple of years we lightly sand and re oil
daily wipe down with a j cloth
monthly wipe over with olive oil
They will last another twenty years easily

We had a composite sink that sat 6inches high above the work surface so the water didn't get on the wood even when DD was small playing with jugs and water.
We used Danish oil and lemon juice to remove stains(with perseverance even tumeric.
When it looked shabby we'd give it a light sanding and recoil.
We had one of those giant wooden boards from IKEA for food prep and the worksurface around the cooker was stainless steel.

Thank you @wowfudge. I’m going to borrow or buy an electric sander, I don’t think my elbow grease is up to the job!

I know this is an old thread- but can anyone advise the easiest way to apply Osmo oil? I’ve seen you can use a brush, rags or a special fleece. I was wondering if a paint pad would work? It’s for an oak worktop.

I wipe it on with a J cloth, that way you get a nice thin coat. Wear gloves of course.