Calling PigletJohn or dishwasher experts

[SoupOnMyTableNowSir]

@PigletJohn, woke this morning to find dishwasher still whirring away but no water in the machine and dishes still dirty. It is a 5 year old Beko. We love it.

It is integrated and we have pulled it out. We have filled the bottom with water to see if it would work as recommended to see if it is the water inlet valve, it just drains it all out, doesn't help fill the wash arms etc.

We have also done the 45 degree tip as recommended on here by other MNetters and your good self. It did empty all the water out (thank goodness for the wet and dry shop vac from Screwfix) and then we put the machine on again and it definitely fills some water at the bottom but again no washing.

This was confirmed with a second 45 degree tip , there is water in there. We are therefore thinking that if water is coming into the machine it isn't the water inlet valve but more likely the re-circulation pump as water but no moving the water from the bottom of the machine. To be clear there is no water sitting in the bottom of the machine.

What do you think? Are we on the right lines? Any help from yourself or anyone with dishwasher knowledge would be great.

Thanks.

it's leaking. you need a mender.

When it gets repaired please don't run it at night. It is a known fire risk.

@PigletJohn, there is no water leaking from the machine. We started trying to sort this out at 9am, so it has been sat for ages with no water coming out the bottom.

But if you say we need a repair person we will listen

donajimena yes I know, but I have put a dishwasher on every night for the best part of 30 years, never had a fire yet. Anyone on Economy 7 electricity usually uses their electric supply at night for the cheaper rate (usually as it charges up their storage heaters) so washing machines etc are on delay timers.

My house is relatively new so the wiring is sound, it has been checked relatively recently due to a completely new consumer unit due to an extension. I have wired in smoke alarms and escape routes. There are lots of fire hazards in all appliances from toaster crumbs to tumble dryer lint build up. I clean and maintain all my appliances.

I used to work for an electricity supplier where we would advise customers on such matters. My Dad still unplugs his TV after lightning hit his house 64 years ago and blew up the tv. I wonder how many of us do that? The sheer number of electrical things left plugged in over night is huge, including fridge freezers which have been designated a fire risk because of the plastic back.

It’s a Beko. Time for a new one as a repair will probably cost nearly as much as a new one.

I have a Beko with a temperamental flood kill switch. It is essentially a piece of polystyrene that floats up to hit a switch and kills the water supply. If I manage to swish a bit of mop water in the wrong direction it has a fit. Not sure how easy it is to solve with integrated, but I totally disagree about Bekos being expensive to repair at least not if you do it yourself.

if the dish under the machine has water in it, that spills out when you tip it backwards, this means a leak, because the dish is designed to catch any water that leaks (probaby from the pump or pipes)

You don't see the evidence of the leak until you tip it back.

Ours leaked internally and blew the house electrics. This has happened to me twice! I called about a repair but the guy said dont even bother. I got a smeg with a 5 year guarantee, way better than previous bosh

Annieoh1
I wasn’t saying it would be expensive to repair. I was saying Beko is really cheap to buy.

Can I hijack lovely pigletjohn? If I’ve got a (at least) 10 year old washer/dryer that isn’t drying is it worth gambling on paying a callout for a repair or shall I just replace it?

washer-driers are notorious for unreliability. Might be worth a try. Suppose you pay £60 or so for diagnosis, you'll then know whether the actual problem is expensive or cheap. But even after that it'll still be 10 years old so not worth investing much in.

I suppose you haven't got room for a separate drier?

Probably not...it’s a small rental property and would have to be a condenser drier...plus don’t really want to buy 2 new machines...

Can I also please jump in with a question on driers PigletJohn? Mine is quite close to a socket but just short, is it ok to use a short extension to connect the drier to the socket?

it's prerferable to have the flex on the drier replaced with a longer one. Driers have the heaviest load, for the longest time, of anu UK household appliance, and are notorious for causing overheating in plugs and sockets that are not up to scratch. If you do use one, it ought to be a high-quality one from a reputable British maker, and the flex will be surprisingly thick (cores I suppose should be 1.25mm/sq or bigger)

Or you could have an electrician add one or more additional sockets to the circuit. That would probably be the best solution. Kitchens and utility rooms need a lot of sockets. A double every metre along the wall above the worktop is not too many.

One of the Electrical bodies did a test on extension leads, and found they were more likely to overheat than the appliance plug straight into a wall socket. I don't know why.

Don't use an adaptor either.

BTW the drier and the washer should not be plugged into the same outlet, even if it's a double socket, as this also increases the running temperature.

This is supposed to be a good one.

Incidentally, UK sockets (the finest in the world) are designed so that you can't insert a plug upside down, thus opening the shutters that block access to the L and N terminals. The law did not take into account multiway adaptors, which had not then been invented, and you will still find some on the market where a plug can be inserted upside down. This is an indicator of unsafe design by somebody who doesn't understand, so don't buy one like that. If you try to insert a plug, upside down, into a wall socket, you'll see what I mean.

Thank you!!