Where to hide kettle, toaster, plugs in kitchen island

[Maidsrus]

I’m designing a kitchen with one big 4m x 2m island. There’s no other worktop, just tall cupboards.

Would you go do a water boiler? Or kettle in a tall cupboard? Or take out when needed? Or just leave out a posh looking kettle?

Toaster - take out when needed or are there other options?

And charging points etc, any good options?

Any advice/experience welcome!

TIA

I’ve got an appliance garage cupboard for all of the things like that. Works really nicely and you can just shut the doors and it’s gone. There are loads of ideas of how to do one if you google it.

We also have a boiling water tap so no need for a kettle.

Re sockets, we have pop up sockets in the island that have three plug points and two usb charging points.

I’d probably go for a boiling water tap and an appliance station in one tall cupboard

I’ve never heard of an appliance garage/station! Giving that one some good thought!

Having googled I hink they work best with roll up shutter, but that might spoil my tall unit slab effect

I’m goign to get a wickes design (I like their walk in larder) so will see what options they have

I tell a lie, this would work perfectly and keep the slab effect

pin.it/es2baiw6m2oecv

Thanks both!

Are you having granite for the island? If so, this is a mammoth bit of granite. Mine is 3.75 x 1.3 m and that’s huge!

I would have the appliances housed in the island and a boiling water tap. Walking to a cupboard to get a kettle out is a faff. Roller doors are a bit cheap looking in my opinion and not in keeping with your look. Keep the toaster under the island.

2 m wide has a lot of dead space. We have units back to back with a 150 Mm gap for the pop up sockets. If you have a built in extractor, is this in the gap? You still have at least 500 mm dead space. I think this island is just too wide. If you have a breakfast Bar, how will you access the cupboards under it?

I meant to say, very deep drawers are what you need for the appliances.

Our toaster goes into a very deep drawer under the bit of surface where it plugs in. I keep the bread in the same drawer.

for power, I have this type of pull out thingy. www.pinterest.co.uk/alnobristol/kitchen-island-powerelectrical-sockets/?lp=true

Larder cupboard with worktop for kettle/toaster with doors that slide back into the frame

If you have a kitchen with no other work surfaces, you will need quite a lot of sockets.

kettle, toaster, mixer, phone charger, coffee maker, radio, other phone charger, juicer, slow cooker, George Formby grill, laptoy, battery charger, other phone charger,

and all the other things that crop up.

An extension lead or multisocket should not run two high power appliances (such as kettle and toaster) at the same time.

You can put sockets along the sides of your island if it doesn't have much overhang.

Opinions differ, but I find the sight of a socket in a kitchen no more frightful than the sight of a tap or a spoon.

2m is too deep for an island unless you have abnormally long arms.

You are right piglet the island is 1.2 m wide. Double a unit depth- was getting confused

Have a split level island.

It needs to be wider than 1.2 or you cannot house pop up sockets in the void! Has anyone designed this kitchen for you?

Went to get a design done today at wickes

It includes their zenith compact laminate worktop, which is 60cm wide, so no room for sockets to drop down in between

Pop up Sockets can drop into a cupboard so I’ve got that option

But I’m thinking of using a tall cupboard for toaster, kettle, Nespresso etc. I’m thinkjng an instant boil kettle could work ok in a cupboard

The boiling water tap I liked was £1500 which is very expensive for a kettle! The cheaper ones were still £1k

I’m having inbuilt chargers too, but might also put extra sockets in cupboards for charging

Would have liked an appliance garage with retractable doors but I think I’d need to go to a more expensive supplier, or get my joiner to customise the units

Happy with the design I’ve got, not signed up yet tho, still thinking things through!

UK units may be nominally 600mm deep, but they usually have a false back, and a gap of about 50mm, where pipes and cables can be run out of sight. If you put two units back to back, the gap will be 100mm (or twice whatever the actual space in your units is). Drawers are often about 450mm deep so they don't reach the back. Ikea cabinets are different.

Some fitters like to saw 50mm or so off the back of the sides and floor of sink units, rather than notching individually for every pipe.

Sometimes the back is hardboard, and sometimes thin chipboard which may be laminated. Kitchen fitters are used to drilling or cutting it for pipe and cable access. I'm not sure how you'd do a pop-up socket, but I should think an access hatch in the unit will be necessary for repairs or maintenance, rather than sealing it in permanently.