as dust, paint drips and hammers fall downwards, I'd start with the ceiling. Have it replastered if necessary, then paint and add lamps.
Take off the old wall cabinets and fit hanging rail after painting the wall down to the old worktop. Hanging rail means you can easily lift up your old and your new cabinets and hook them on, it is no trouble to move them around the kitchen, or sideways by an inch or a yard, because there are no particular points where the cabs have to be fixed. The hangers adjust a bit up and down, in and out. You may need to trim the wall cabs at the back if your walls are badly out, and drill holes for cables for lighting and extractor.
You can then hang the old wall cabs back up while you have a rest, or fit new ones.
Unfix all the floor cabs from each other and from the wall (you may have to unfasten the worktop). They can then be moved around or taken out individually.
I agree about preparing the whole floor, even under your future cabinets and appliances. It is no more work, and enables you to move things around or change sizes if you wish. In my own house, I stained and varnished the floors under the cabs first, so that it wouldn't matter of the central floor got chipped or scratched or had a few paint drips, as it would be sanded clean before finishing. If you are tiling, it is very difficult to lift a heavy appliance over the step caused by tiles that have been laid after the appliance was in place.
Again, you can put the floor cabs back individually if you wish, no need to screw them together until finalised, and the worktop can just lie on them, but add a few screws if you have climbing children.
You next have to do wiring and plumbing, fairly easy as you can move individual floor cabs out of the way to work, then fill and repair the plaster. You will want to finish painting the walls, and take the paint below worktop level to avoid any unsightly gaps or lines (I'd paint all the way to the skirting, but I am not a kitchen fitter). When funds permit, buy your cabinets (you can buy the boxes in advance of the doors for economy), hook them onto the wall and stand them on the floor. Verify that your new cooker hood fits with the cabinets before fixing them. Walls are never straight and rooms are never square.
A tip: have the wall cabs out of the way while you are doing the floor cabs, or you will bang your head on them.
Only when you have finalised the cabs and appliances, and fixed them to each other and to the wall, do you need to take your final measurements for the worktop. If you have the correct size and shape it will simply lift and slide into place (unless you have stone, which will need twenty strong women to lift it). You don't want to be working round your new worktop, or taking it off once its down. The sink and taps are fitted to the worktop before it is put in position, to avoid trying to lie on your back inside the sink unit and reach up behind it.
Then cut your plinth.. trial fix it... finish the floor as there is now no reason it should get damaged... fix the plinths.
You can then do your tiles or splashbacks, only after you are certain that nothing will need to move.
If you lose energy, or run out of money, you can take a break part way through. The cabs work perfectly well without doors, so add them last to avoid accidental damage.