If "kitchen sockets" is a 32Amp circuit, it will probably be sufficient for all your appliances except the cooker(s).
It's usual to have a separate cooker circuit (though if you are rewiring, consider a cooker outlet on each side of the kitchen, in case you decide to remodel and change things round)
Some kitchen circuits are only 20A, which is rather low.
During their heating cycle, washers, driers, dishwashers, kettles and toasters each take between 10A and 13A, so you can see how they add up. But a kettle or a toaster only heat up for about 3 minutes; a washer for 10 to 15 minutes; a dishwasher for 10 to 15 minutes for the hot wash and again for the hot rinse; but a tumble drier (unless a heat-pump model) may take 13A for two hours continuously. If you have electric heaters (which are very expensive to run) they may also take a high current, especially when first turned on, before the room comes up to temperature and the thermostat starts to click off and on. A combi microwave, when heating the oven, takes around 10A, but a simple microwave, less.
Lights, fans, TVs, phone chargers, computers use so little you can ignore them.
When churning or spinning, after reaching temperature, washers and dishwashers use far less current. But if you have a separate laundry room, it's preferable to have that on a circuit separate from the kitchen.
Electricians use the principle of diversity to calculate how likely it is that several appliances will all be drawing high power at the same time. It's surprisingly rare for a 32A breaker to be overloaded and trip.