the tallest floor-standing units are I think about 2150 tall (you won't be able to reach the top shelf). If you have an older grand house where the ceilings may be about 12 foot high, there is a large and unusable gap on top. You can display your collection of pewter tankards and Chinese vases up there, but they will be pretty dirty by the time you get your ladder out to wash them. I'd suggest a panel to box in the gap, decorated to match the wall. You can use matching doors but they may look odd.
Wall units are common in 900mm (I have them) but you won't be able to reach the top shelf unless you are rather tall. You can also get 1400 height doors that are used in dressers. These normally stand on the worktop but you could hand them on the wall if you wanted. Many people fill in the gap between cabinet and ceiling with ornamental coving if small, or top boxes that are usually start at 250mm or 300mm, with top-hinged or lifting doors. You won't be able to reach them.
Matching décor panels from your kitchen supplier are ludicrously expensive considering they are just painted MDF or veneered chipboard.
These are all sizes that you can get from mass manufacturers. Provided your supplier offers doors in the size you want, you can get cabinets made to measure by a number of factories. The delivery charge is quite high unless you are buying a number. I am doing that because my kitchen of choice has been discontinued, and I bought a warehouse clearance of remaining doors and trims. It's often needed if you have to get, say, a strange-size cabinet round your boiler.
I recommend a max depth of 350mm for wall cabinets (300mm is more common) as it will fit large plates and dishes, and horizontal bottles. Any deeper and you won't be able to see into the back.
I recommend cabinet hanging rail rather than individual screws, as it is very strong, and runs along the whole wall so it bridges over any weak patches, and you can re-position your cabs along it if you feel the need.