Hanging kitchen wall unit stuff up. Advice PLEASE.

[Wheelycote]

Bugger bugger bugger. I got my measurements wrong. Three times😣

I need to drill more holes but I darent in case I bugger it up or make one big massive hole. I've added pictures. It's a corner wall unit

I was too low. I need to go 1cm higher than the holes drilled.

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm not in a position to get anyone in to do it for me

If I bugger this next try up....my plan is to drill through the sides of the wall unit to attach and secure to the wall and hide the screws with inner shelf.

Does that sound feasible or not a good idea?????

You need to fill those holes which you've drilled in the wrong places and drill in the correct place once the filler has hardened. Stop for tonight and try again when you are fresh.

Thanks for your reply. I down tools after I realised. Would I fill with polyfilla or is there something better?

What is the wall made of?

What sort of drill are you using?

What colour is the drill bit?

Why aren't you using adjustable cabinet hangers?

P.s.

I wouldn't use polyfilla

The adjustable fittings are already attached and drilled into the unit. The adjustable screws on 2 of the 3 fittings are screwed in so tight I can't undo the screws to adjust them.

Wall - brick then dot and dab plasterboard. Screws are turbo silver 6.0 dia and 3inch length. In the holes drilled I used two brown wall plugs - 1st wall plug pushed in and second to help bridge gap between dot and dab. Screw drilled in through both. Did the job. Nion impossible to remove screws.

Do I fill in the holes? to give strength before I drill above. What with?

V frustrated. I don't want to get the corner base unit in and do rest of kitchen unit, until I get this blumin corner wall unit up

Spoke to kitchen unit people they've not put holes on the inside of the unit. Had tried to adjust at the back no wonder the bloody screws were not moving, they weren't meant too!

I might not need to drill more holes😀 fan bloody tactic! Waiting to cheat back from them about how to sort.
Better undo packaging from rest of wall units and check they've got holes.

Next question.
There's a lip at the top of the unit that overhangs over the wall bracket - makes it really difficult to get the unit hung in the wall brackets on the wall. Any tips????? Apart from edging out this bit of overhang???

Unit up. But I have gaps grhhh. I've tightened everything up and spirit level says 👌👌 on all sides and in three places on top.

Have checked back of unit and nothing sticking out.

Any thoughts on what's gone wrong apart from the fact I'm not a kitchen fitter and 5ft 2 and in need of a bottle of alcohol of some sorts about now! And skint so I have to sort this myself

Blumin blumin thing!!

if you have cabinet hangers like these

they adjust up and down and in and out. To hang the cab you adjust them to stick out the max, beyond the edges of the cab. The Z-shaped metal strip has to be positioned to it fits inside the edges OR you can notch the back edges of the cab to pass over it.

I was going to have suggested that instead of the short metal strips, you used longer hanging rail. That means you can place its screws in any convenient places, skipping over existing holes or weak spots.

It is particularly useful when you are hanging multiple cabinets, because you measure and level it once, than hang all the cabs on it. You can move them along if they aren't in quite the right place.

It can be cut with a hacksaw, and is sold in various lengths, such as 900mm and up to 3metres.

Like this

I can't see your pictures

is your wall wall 100% level?
you always tend to have little gaps at points as walls are never 100% flat but then you scribe your end panel tall the wall to hide these

Forgot to add....
if unit is level as you say on all 3 and secure then will prob be your wall is out at points

I have now seen your pics on another browser.

As user says, the wall might not be true, but it is also possible that the tops if the units have crushed into the plasterboard when the hangers were tightened. Dot and dab is not strong, and fixings can do that (the long strip is better as it spreads the load). Try slackening the hooks a bit and see if the cabs hang better.

BTW, look out for sockets and switches. The cable probably runs behind the plasterboard and is always supposed to be run in straight vertical and horizontal lines from these accessories, to help you guess where it is. It can also be run within 150mm of corners in walls and the edges where the meet the ceiling.

I'd I bought one of those voltage detectors Pigletjohn and your right the wires don't run in a straight line. I'll be hearing that bleeting noise for days - it's certainly high pitched

The plasterboard had squished down under one of the brackets all the holes I'd drilled didn't help. Ive faffed with the adjustable brackets and closed the gap a bit.

I could close the gap properly by screwing / securing the unit internally to the wall?
I could do it in line with the internal shelf so it can't be seen.

Good idea or bad idea??

If you have more wall units to hang, seriously consider a long hanging rail. It is stronger, and once fitted, much quicker.

The gap will not show once you have another cupboard hung, and you will have to line them all up together once they are all up, so don't fix through the back yet.