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removing some existing kitchen cabinets

5 replies

Ifailed · 13/07/2017 07:10

I want to re-jig my gallery kitchen a bit, I have too many cupboards. It is the usual set up, with a row of cupboards and drawers with a worktop on top, then a row of cupboards at head height. I want to remove a complete end section (ie top cupboard, bottom drawer and cupboard). It looks like it was a flatpack kit. Do I:

  1. Completely remove the worktop, and cut it down to the new length.
  2. remove cupboards (how?)
  3. re-fit worktop.

There is a line of trim underneath and on top of the upper cupboards, do I completely remove this and cut down and replace, or can it be cut in situ?

OP posts:
NotMeNoNo · 13/07/2017 14:11

Definitely yes, very satisfying to improve kitchen cheaply.kitchen fitting video

Removal is the reverse.

  • Empty the cupboards you are removing.
  • Take trims off the wall cupboards. They will be glued at the corners and screwed to top/bottom of units.
  • Take off worktop if possible - has it got hob or sink in it? If so you will have to get them disconnected. If there is sealant along the back cut it with a Stanley knife. It will be screwed to the units from underneath.
  • Take off the kickboards, they are probably clipped on.
  • Remove base and wall end panels (short screws inside the units)
  • Unscrew base and wall units from the wall
  • Re fit end panels to the units that are now left.
  • Cut the plinth and wall trims down to the new size and refit
  • Attach edging strip to exposed edge of worktop (e.g. B&Q).
  • re-seal the back edge.
Ifailed · 13/07/2017 15:22

Thank-you. I'm looking at it all more closely and your advice is much appreciated. Will attack at the weekend!
Have also realised just how much grott and stuff I really don't want to identify exists behind, under and within kitchen cabinets.

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 13/07/2017 17:43

remove wall cabs first and fit last, or you will bang your head on them.

Wall cabs are best fitted using adjustable hangers but I prefer using them with hanging rail not the short wall brackets. It is stronger, and easier to reposition cabs at whim.

Ifailed · 14/07/2017 17:59

I'm sure you are all holding your breath, but did it today. Not as hard as I thought once I'd taken off the worktop (hard!) and all the beading type stuff that ran the length of things.
Then the cupboards were quite easy to remove. Only problem is now, I can see what horrors they were hiding, with wonky walls, weird wiring and strange pipework. Those will need professional help, but I've created the space I wanted.

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 14/07/2017 18:21

Sad kitchen fitters are notorious for poor-quality plumbing and electrical work hidden away behind the units.

It's probably full of dirt and rubble back there too.

I'm a great believer in having the plumbing and electrics done neatly by professionals before the fitting starts.

I also like to screw a batten to the wall for the back edge of the worktop to stand on, then the units can be slid into position and levelled with their adjustable feet. Have a very slight slope towards the front of the worktop so spillages run off, and not down the back.

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