You mean sockets.
Have the ring or radial run horizontally, chased into the wall, all round the room, at about 200mm above worktop level. Have it run in oval conduit (this is because it is relatively easy to cut into and add another outlet in future, if necessary)
At each position where you plan to have, or might one day want, an electrical appliance, have a 20A switch, feeding an unswitched socket below. Where you want a high-level outlet, for example for a cooker hood, TV, extractor fan, microwave or outside light, put an FCU feeding a flex outlet above (above eye level where you will not notice it). You can feed a hood or fan from a socket outlet, but it is shoddy.
Spread double sockets along the horizontal row, spaced no more than one metre apart.
If it is a k/diner or a room where there is a sitting area where no worktop is planned, have a double socket close to each corner; on each side of patio doors, french windows, fireplaces or other features; and at intervals of no more than two metres along each wall. It will look slightly neater if they are equally spaced.
You will be surprised that there are no particular regulations about sockets and sinks, but sockets should not be placed where they can be splashed or dripped on by taps and sinks, including sinks that overflow. It is very poor to have a socket or switch in a cupboard or otherwise hidden, since an onlooker will not be able to quickly turn it off in an emergency.
If you can afford it, it is preferable to have the kitchen circuit on an RCBO, and your freezer on a separate, dedicated circuit. Both these steps will reduce the cost and inconvenience of losing power to everything in a breaker trips.
The room which has the washer and drier in it should have its own circuit because the load is so heavy.