forecourt makeover - help !

[gingeroots]

We have a large forecourt on a main road . It's about 26 ft square .hard surface - thin cracked concrete .Two wooden fences either side in v poor condition . Five large plastic bins .

The house is divided into 2 flats .The groundfloor flat occasionally parks on the forecourt though there is no dropped curb - and it would cost a few thousand to have that done .

What can I do to improve it ???

I guess replacing decrepit fences with brick would be prohibitive ? ( some cost sharing with neighbours can be assumed ) What sort of wooden fences might look nice ??????

Would using those grooved decking planks ,double sided ,be cheaper than brick ? Could I incorporate some guttering on the top for planting ?

Plant something quick growing ( jasmine ??? ) over the decrepit fences ??

Should I have a wooden shelter thing to screen the bins ?

I know a picture would help but I don't even have a phone that takes pics

Really all at sea here ....please help .

Are you owner or tenant?

How much do you hope to spend?

Who has rights to the forecourt?

I'm an owner .Joint freeholder with downstairs .Forecourt is marked on lease as a common part .
Money ....as little as possible . I guess it's going to be up to £3 or £4 thousand ....

You could get some big trough planters to pop down either side and plant up? Wouldn't cost a bomb but would detract attention away from the unsightly bits. Quite easy to knock together some screening on a few posts to hide bins. Colourful pots etc?

thanks marzipan ,I'm thinking along those lines . I'm convinced planting is the way forward and that screening the hideous bins a must .

Are the wooden fences facing the road, or between you and next door? How high are they? Are the posts wooden? 3" or 4"?

Is it a fence made of 6' wide panels of thin slats, or is it made of featheredge or something?

Does the concrete go right up to the posts so it would be difficult to dig holes for new ones?

In some places, if you put troughs or planters by the pavement, people steal them.

Sorry ,been out .Fences are between us and next door,would say posts are 3" ,featheredge panels . Yes concrete up to posts ,but v crumbly .

with the permission of the fence owners, you could slosh some water-based fence stain on. Many people prefer the traditional dark brown. You need to do both sides as it will dribble through, and at least two coats.

Half a day's work with a big brush will make an immediate improvement.

If the posts are not rotten, you could also nail trellis to them, and invest in some climbers. Drill pilot holes for the nails to avoid splitting. Sweet peas will do quickly in summer, but have to be cut back in autumn as they will look untidy and dead. Other more permanent climbers or roses are also easy but not so quick.

It is hard work to dig out fence post holes so if you ever need to replace them, I recommend concrete posts, or at least concrete spurs, which will last as long as you do. People who don't like the look of concrete posts can use bitter chocolate masonry paint which will blend in with the woodstain. Concrete gravel boards will extend the life of the fence by reducing rot. Panels are much flimsier than featheredge and do not last.

You can also use trellis or fence to hide the bins.

If the concrete is flat and level, you can lay paving slabs over it, but for a better (more expensive) job it needs to be broken up. The paving must be at least 9" below the DPC and slope away from the house to avoid damp.

Oh thank you PJ - that's really helpful . I'm revising my description to fence panels ,like this www.diy.com/departments/pro-timber-overlap-fence-panel-w183m-h18m-pack-of-3/971436_BQ.prd. No gravel boards and the top edge/piece is missing on some . Ho hum .

Many thanks again .

You can bodge repairs to those panels using tilers batten. When stained it will blend in. They are not strong enough to be hammered once erected but you can use screws. You must drill pilot holes first as they are flimsy. The screws must be short enough that the points don't come out, and they need sound batten on both sides. Or 6mm roofing bolts with galvanised washers and nuts, look for a tub or buy by weight, not individually. You use a large screwdriver and small spanner.

A woodyard will sell tilers batten cheap, go for pre-treated. They will have something similar in a bigger section you can use on the tops. You can tinker along DIY ing. Repaired and stained they will look much better. You can saw them to length. A Workmate will be useful.

If the tops have rotted off, those panels will not last long, and they will flex in the wind and break up.

If you are paying someone, replace, with new concrete posts, because repair will be uneconomic. It will use up all your budget.

I should have said M6 roofing bolts and nuts. 50 will cost about £5, and 100 M6 galvanised washers a bit less.

You will probably need 50mm length, but measure first. They have to be a bit longer than the thickness of the wood.

Tilers batten is usually sold in quantity, not singly. You might get a bundle of a dozen or so. It is cheap and handy around the garden. If you have any with a big knot in them, they will break at the knot, so cut it out and use the remaining length.

golly PJ you are the business !

Forgot - thank you ,mine of information .Love it .