Wooden worktop damage around tap area. Solution ideas?

[SunTree]

I resanded and osmo'd last year. But some of the wood is really knackered. All the rest of the worktop is in top top knick. Is it possible to get the area around the sink removed and replaced?

Or tiles put in that little area by the mixer tap behind the butler sink?

Surely this must be a common issue? I don't know who to approach about this, so am mining the MN practical resource department with crossed fingers...

Bumping just in case anyone can give input...

I have exactly the same problem. Have no idea what to do about it but will watch with you for hopefully someone with an answer.

We have the same problem.

Hope you're both sitting down.

I asked DH what we could do about it and he says, realistically, replacing it is the only option. He said you CAN try a resin hardener which will soak into the wood then set, providing a firm base for wood filler, but this stinks to high heaven, is a pig to do and isn't guaranteed as there needs to be no movement.

The Osmo (which he had to google) is just an oil and will not work, sorry.

Ours is solid oak blocks, slivers of wood are coming up around the tap. It's a right mess, blackened and grotty....

Maybe a worktop fitter can cut off the affected part and glue on a new bit? They have a fancy jig for these things, don't they?

Resin hardener? Sounds like something I need to find about.

Replacing the entire work surface just seems so...impractical! Hmm.

This might be one of those areas where you need an intelligent DIY approach.

(The osmo I used is a sealant, bet. It waterproofs. )

You could use a router to create a ledge to sit tiles into. You'd need to think about waterproofing the ledge before tiling.

Or cut out the worktop around the sink and have a stone insert made to replace it.

I now have an Ikea worktop depth sink due to having this problem in the past.

Yes to Your two solutions, Mis.

Presumably solution one is more economical. I've never used a router. I'm happy to waterproof and to try tiling.
Do you think it's a doable DIY project for a novice?

If not... I'm not sure who to approach about it.

If you've never used a router have you a workbench and a big chunk of wood/ spare bit of worktop you could try it on?

Honestly I think its a slight stretch for a complete novice, have a look on youtube at routing worktops to give you a feel for it. Its going to be a very visible thing every time you're at the sink so you need to way this up in how much to spend DIYing it vs getting someone in to do a professional job.

In your situation I'd get a plumber to install a new sit-on sink so you end up with all the good wood work top but just cut away the damaged part. Otherwise you'll just get the same problem recurring.

Did it get worse since you Osmo'd it or has that just sealed in what was bad already? Is it just discoloured or actually swelled/split from water damage?

Osmo is a hardwax oil, it is a very efficient waterproofing oil when put onto undamaged wood.

Can you remove the taps (so you can get a good go at it) , sand it fiercely back to good wood, fill any splits and re-seal? It might actually only be a couple of millimetres deep. I have heard that oxalic acid will remove black stains from oak (whatever that is). There is a good woodfiller for tiny holes/cracks that comes in tiny tins you colour match it to the wood.

That might be worth a try before going for tiles.

It's much better since I sanded and osmo'd it. But the tap moves a bit. The wood around the tap opening must be weakening.

The installing of a different kind of sink is a very new thought. Preventing recurring issue would certainly be excellent.

I've never used a router, nor do I have a workbench, so I guess it's out of my hands.

Budget for this is about the size of a modest lunch. Well, maybe lunch for two people who aren't big eaters.

Your tap might need tightening up, you can get a spanner for that. It's hard to say without seeing it how far gone that section of wood is but it might look worse than it is.

I hope it looks worse than it is. Tap has been tightened. I think I should have used the resin hardener after sanding, before osmo ing.

Isn't it typical...learning how to do something, by doing it wrong...

Bumping in case anyone has dealt with this issue and can share their experience..