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Which Osmo Oil for Walnut Worktop

13 replies

Nepotism · 05/12/2014 16:34

Just that, really. The range seems to be huge and I don't know which I should use. I don't want a shiny finish, just something hardwearing.

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Tournesol · 05/12/2014 16:45

I just did my walnut worktop a year ago. Our walnut came with no treatment so we sanded it and used the wood protector as an undercoat. It is really easy to apply.

Then on top we used the top oil. A word of warning here. You have to rub it in really hard because on the darker tones of walnut it can show up a little white, but as long as we really rubbed it goes in well and looks totally natural.

Have to say I am really pleased with how well it repels water, our worktop still looks pristine. We even had a bad spill from the kettle that went unnoticed,soaked in and warped the wood but once it dried out the warp disappeared and there was not even a tiny water stain!

berceuse · 05/12/2014 17:50

We have walnut worktops, probably a couple of years old now. I just used a very fine grit sandpaper and painted two coats of this on in the satin finish

www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=255

two mornings running. I didn't rub it in hard or use the wood protector, just painted a thin coat on x 2. Looks like new still and we are not terribly careful.

annalouiseh · 05/12/2014 18:30

You just need the clear matt as it wont yellow the wood in colour, will just enhance its natural effect

www.google.co.uk/webhp?source=search_app&gfe_rd=cr&ei=e_iBVM-ZJ_Cq8wenz4CIBQ&gws_rd=ssl#q=osmo+3062

Nepotism · 06/12/2014 21:56

Thanks, got the last tin on the shelf. I'm imagining hordes of mumsnetters were in there before me!

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Nepotism · 12/12/2014 13:18

Help - I applied with a cloth as per the instructions on the website. It appears to dry immediately - it says 8 - 10 hours. It's very difficult to tell it's been done - is this normal?

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PigletJohn · 12/12/2014 16:21

first it soaks into the wood, then it oxidises and starts to harden.

I expect you have seen it soaking in and looking dry.

As you apply more coats, and the surface of the wood becomes more saturated with oil, it will soak in slower.

It is important to polish off any excess lying on the surface while still wet, as it will become sticky and gummy as it oxidises, which is very difficult to remove. Think of an old cooking oil bottle, gummy round the neck.

Nepotism · 12/12/2014 16:25

Thanks Piglet John, very useful. My extra virgin olive pressed by the feet of Tuscan virgins never gets gummy ;)

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RaisingSteam · 12/12/2014 17:37

Do two thin coats and see how it goes. When the second coat is dry splash on some water - if it beads you're there.

Nepotism · 12/12/2014 22:44

Thanks, just did the second coat and it's noticeably different so I'll try the water in the morning.

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neepsandtatties · 13/12/2014 10:21

Let us know how you get on - I'll be in your position in a couple of weeks!

Nepotism · 14/12/2014 22:50

Hi Neeps, four coats later (I'm very cautious) it's beading. Extremely easy to apply, I wouldn't go back to Danish oil, but it's so invisible I'm worried I haven't done it properly. I'll do a few more coats just in case.

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neepsandtatties · 15/12/2014 08:14

Fantastic - thanks for updating. And that was the clear matt top oil, yes?

Nepotism · 15/12/2014 16:32

It was - if I ever see my house in daylight again, I'll post a pic!

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