How to put up shelves?!

[eachpeachbarebum]

Very embarrassed to have reached my age and not have a clue. I suppose I could have a go but they would likely be wonky loose and risk falling down with the weight of some dust.
Here is a picture of the fixing on the shelf (it's a gltc any which way shelf) how does this work? Would it really just be a rawl plug then a screw with the head sort of clipped into the round bit? Doesn't seem very secure but I can't think of another way.can anyone enlighten me please (in terms a three year old would understand!)

The head of the screw has to slide upward and is trapped in the elongated part of the slot.
So you need to get some screws that will go into the round part and slide upward , I would say one and a half inches long 8 gauge. When you buy the rawl plugs you need to check the drill size which will be printed on the pack. Do a test with the screw in the slot of the bracket , you are looking for no play movement hardly for a nice snug firm fit of the shelf. You need to measure the space between the edge of the shelf and the top of the elongated part of the groove if you are aiming to put the shelf in an exact height Once you have decided what level/height you want the shelf sat at, with a spirit level mark out a line and by measuring the distance between the center of the two elongated slots you can have the exact position for the drill holes . You have to get that part right or you will end drilling endless holes
That type of bracket gets a really firm strong fitted shelf. When measuring the distance between the slots it’s the center of the screw head that will live in the slot and the other slot what you want marked accurately. You need to fiddle with them to get both screw heads project the same amount.

I didn't explain that the rawl plugs need to correspond with the drill size .
It,s printed on the rawl plug package . The screw size will be on the rawl plugs too. All screws have a gauge (the width) so if you get them to marry you will have a really snug tight strong fixture. The same applies to the drill hole. If you have a plug thats rated to the drill, then the rawl plug will need to be tapped home with a hammer after drilling the wall and will not let you down when you load up the shelves.

My guess of screw length is just that as I don't know the thickness of the shelf . You need to aim for at least one and a quarter inches of screw going into the wall . So allow for the depth between the to of the bracket and the thickness of the shelf and add

Very clear description roneik

Strangely, I've just put up two little shelves with the same fixings.

They were an absolute bastard to do

I hate diy.

It depends what the wall is made of (brick, block, plasterboard over block with airgap, plasterboard on wooden frame, plasterboard on rigid insulating foam).

What's yours?

They say that modern houses are crap , but all my walls bar a couple upstairs are solid.
If you have thin plasterboard you can buy plugs with wings that open up when you insert the screw.

And for the shelf above DDs wardrobe you need two raw plugs and skews and two fancy plasterboard fixings, because of the lintel above said cupboard.

There was much muttering and visiting the shed.

www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-spring-toggles-x-50mm-pack-of-20/44319#

I kick the crap out of the shed door every tuesday just because I can
On Wednesdays I have a different routine, I shout obscenities at the mundane government sponsored so called news on the BBC . Who force me to buy a bloody li8cense . I could go on but the nurse say's it's time for the green pill

Thanks for all replies.roneik that's a great explanation that even I understand. I will go through the screws and plugs tin for sizes but will probably end up at homebase.

Pigletjohn I have actually bought a few of them as they were half price so plan to put them up on a mix of brick outer walls and inner plasterboard. More detail than that, I've no idea. Will definitely get some of those with wings for extra strength.

I'm a bit annoyed with them already.there was no weight limit on description but in the instructions it says 7kg max. Not sure I can load them with books as planned especially when I know it's all on 2 screws! Maybe better buying standard shelves with brackets.
I will try and fit some tomorrow. Roneik if you have any green pills going spare I may need one!

for the brick outer walls, buy some Brown plasplugs (yellow and red ones are available but not so big and strong).

And a 6mm masonry drill

And a tube of no-more-nails or own-brand substitute

These wall plugs accept screws No 6,8,10,12 (3.5 - 5.5mm)

You will find the rectangle of plastic they come with has sample screw-size and drill size-holes in it.

I almost always use no.8 screws because they are strong enough for most things. A slightly larger screw is stronger, and will also expand the plug a bit more if it is a bit loose in the hole. The plug and screw must be long enough to penetrate at least an inch into the brick or block. Disregard any length that is in the plaster because it has no strength. Plaster is usually about 18mm thick, but can be an inch in old houses. So probably a 40mm screw if you want to hang a heavy shelf or cupboard, or a curtain rail.

Using the Hammer setting on your drill, mark and drill holes that are at least as deep as the plug or the screw. Clear the dust out of it with the hoover hose (or you can blow into the hole if you want grit in your eyes and hair). Hopefully the plug will be a snug fit. Tap it slightly below the surface of the plaster. This will reduce cracking and make it easy to fill the hole neatly when you change your mind or redecorate.

If the plug is so loose that it spins uselessly in the hole, get the small tube of no-more-nails or similar builders adhesive that you bought earlier. Stick the nozzle into the hole and fill it as you withdraw the nozzle. Poke the plasplug into the hole so it sinks into the adhesive (put a screw into the plug a couple of turns as a handle) and push it slightly below the surface. Clear up the excess. The next day, the adhesive will have hardened and you can drive the screw into it, the force will be transmitted to the wall and you have a good fixing.

Fixing to plasterboard is usually different except in a modern house where the board is dabbed onto a blockwork wall. Then drill through the board and into the block and proceed as above, except you will need a longer screw because there is an air gap.

If the plasterboard is fixed to wooden studs, identify where the studs are and drill through the board, and screw into the studs. You do not use plasplugs in timber.

If you fix anything heavy onto plasterboard itself, it might fall off one day.

The only thing wrong with the no nails theory is it's an impact adhesive and one jolt and it's loose.
Get the right screw and drill and plug and it's job done, no nail has only one useful function that's skirting boards, even then it very often needs the help of masonry pins on uneven walls.
Stop making everything so technical it's a shelf not a swimming pool diving platform she is trying to fit on the wall . He said as he adjusted his swimming trunks to accommodate his spanners and tube of no nails

the no-more-nails is just to take up the slack. It isn't used as a glue. Once hardened, and a screw is inserted, it transmits the pressure from the plug to the wall. It's an improved version of the matchsticks or bits or cardboard some bodgers use in a loose hole, as it moulds to the precise shape of the hole and the plug. It's much cheaper than a resin injection as used in serious work.

Ok just checked in again. Didn't realise I'd sparked a debate on it! I am going to take all the advice, have all things mentioned to hand and see how it goes. I will report back...