Have you bought a new front door? one that is mainly glazed/ half glazed. How much was it and where was it from?

[Briony32]

We are just about to move into an ex council house with the original early 80s front door.
This is the first thing I want to change.
I want something that will let in as much light as possible (mainly or half glazed), is paintable (so I can change it to suit my mood) and hopefully that won't cost the earth.
Any suggestions?
Something either traditional or really really modern?l
Prefer wood but don't mins UPVC as you seem to be able to buy quite a range now.

Wickes do a large range of part glazed doors which you can browse online.

We are about to swap our front door (hence my post on here) and a major reason for us is the locking mechanism on the uPVC door that was fitted in our house when we bought it. Apart from not being in keeping with a Victorian House it is very easy to lock ourselves in or out (key needed to unlock) and the rest of the time it's not on a latch and so can be opened by anyone passing.

Just something to consider as obviously different doors suit different people and houses.

We got one from this company. www.rockdoor.com

Seems sturdy and is as thick of the previous wooden draft. Unlike the previous door, it is not drafty. It isn't really paintable though.

I am strongly in favour of wooden doors.

Can you be seen through the door e.g. if you are collecting the post and not fully dressed? Is it in a porch or exposed to the weather?

Thanks. I like some of the Wickes ones and am surprised at the reasonable prices.
I like wooden doors too. I want a partial glazed door to let as much light in as possible. We don't have a porch, but hope to get round the privacy issue with obscure glass. So far I like this one the best:
www.wickes.co.uk/avon-oak-veneer-exterior-door-813mm/invt/221913/
or this
www.wickes.co.uk/malton-oak-veneer-exterior-door-762mm/invt/221848/
Does anyone have these? Will they look cheap? So hard to tell just on a website.
I'm sure I have seen some painted UPVC doors on recent property viewings, but maybe it's just the coloured ones I have seen.
If anyone else has any recommendations of suppliers, please post. Thanks.

sorry, proper web links:
www.wickes.co.uk/avon-oak-veneer-exterior-door-813mm/invt/221913/
or this
www.wickes.co.uk/malton-oak-veneer-exterior-door-762mm/invt/221848/

that one is doweled, T&G is better. Also it is veneered, I much prefer solid hardwood. You will need a new, matching hardwood frame to match. As you have no porch, the door will be exposed to the weather. Veneers and woodstain do not stand up weather as well as solid timber and paint.

Try to find a recommended local joiner to fit it, he will do a faster and better job than any handyman or DIYer. he will probably also know a good lock door supplier. Do not get your recommendation off the 'net as they may have been written by the tradesman and his chums.

Choose your BS 5-lever deadlock and nightlatch and any other furniture in advance. I recommend lift-off hinges, preferably in stainless or brass PVD on stainless.

Try not to have the letterbox on the front door. If you must, have it as far away as possible from the locks, as it is possible to turn a nightlatch or key using a simple home-made tool.

If you buy an unglazed door, ask a glazier to supply laminated obscure glass which is very difficult for a burglar to break.

I said T&G, I meant M&T (mortice and tenon)

you might not be able to see the magnet trade webpage but theirs are better.

Observe that some of the glazed doors have much thicker woodwork between the glass panes (e.g. Alicante). This is more burglarproof.

Thanks. Yes I see that a hardwood door would be better. I will try to find a joiner. Just looked at the Howdens website too and found some possibilities.
I understand about not having the letterbox too close to the lock, but do you think it it a problem to go for a half glazed door? ie: Is it conceivable that someone can smash through double glazing to reach the lock? In one like this, for example:
www.howdens.com/doors-joinery-collection/external-doors/external-hardwood-doors/richmond-m-t/
or www.magnettrade.co.uk/joinery/doors/external-doors/hardwood-external-doors/kendal-mt-pre-glazed-clear/
Is laminated obscure glass very different to double glazing? Sorry, basic questions I know!
I just need a door that will let in as much light as possible. There are no other windows in the hallway.

the "safety" double glazing is like car windows, it does not break into jagged splinters but into little cubes of glass. It is quite strong if someone walks into it, but shatters easily and quietly if attacked with a certain type of tool. It has to be manufactured to fit and cannot be cut (as it will shatter)

laminated glass is like jewellers windows. If you hit it hard enough, it will craze like a spiders web, but remains in one strong piece even when broken. a glazier can cut it to size.

"obscure" just means patterned so you can't see through it easily.

We swapped a wooden door for a wood-effect multi-laminate one. The difference has been incredible. No more sticking in winter (I used to have to open it by banging my bum on it for a minute or two, and close by similar means) and closing at a simple draft of wind in summer, both because of the expanding and drying out wood.
The drafts were awful too - freezing cold hall in the snow.

It's now warm and draft-free and easy to open. Can't of course remember the make but I will look it up and tell you. I'm sure it could be painted but they come in several colours.

The old wood door was painted white. We inherited it that colour. We once tried to return it to natural wood before varnishing but short of having it professionally cleaned, we just couldn't. White streaks in the grain, so we painted it white again. Eventually the door frame rotted and the door started to go and so I phoned the local PVC-u door co.

It's half wood-effect laminate and the top half is a stained-glass plus clear glass double-glazed panel. Lots of light plus we can see out. Options are semi-opaque glass. We wanted clear so we can see who is there without needing a peephole, since DC currently way too short to see through one!

Not cheap though £1K+

I think the "Richmond" style is quite attractive, though very see-through. I have seen people put net curtains on the inside of them. Some older houses have a fanlight or transom window above, which lets in extra light.

The Kendal door has less wood in it so I would expect it to be less strong and rigid.

A plastic or composite door can easily cost £1k; for this money, or less, you should be able to get a really splendid wooden door, possibly even custom-made.

I have this style of door which is very solid and strong, but might not be to your taste. Mine came from Magnet but I don't think they sell it in the same quality any more. Due to the amount of timber, it is heavier and more expensive than more graceful doors.

Thanks for all the information. I'm learning a lot here. Yes I like the 'Richmond' one too from Howdens. Perhaps could get a glazier to put in laminated obscure glass or even stained glass window panes (laminated).
But maybe I'm making life complicated for myself and just need to talk to a joiner and see what he can do.
Moonbells It would be great if you could dig out your supplier. Not sure what a wood-effect multi-laminate door is, I guess it's much better than this kind of thing, or is the same?
www.wickes.co.uk/avon-oak-veneer-exterior-door-813mm/invt/221913/?awc=1563_1380358570_d6bb048faa4ac3c9a784cf1bff8eae8b&utm_source=affiliate_window&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=78888&utm_content=deeplink&utm_campaign=deeplink
PigletJohn Great info. Can I pick your brain a little more? If the wood is heat treated/pressure treated, will that prevent warping and swelling?

Off the peg would be the easiest option for me as this would be fast and I want to get the front door sorted as soon a we move in. Budget it up to about £600. Need lots of light, burglar proof and warp/swell proof.
Just come across this, no prices so I presume very expensive?
www.timberwindows.com/timber-doors/conventional-entrance/gallery.aspx
Frenchay, Moreton or Bardwell (sorry, it seems you have to click through slide show)
Any thoughts appreciated, thanks.

pressure-treatment is to protect against woodworm and rot, not warping.

Protecting it from moisture from rain and condensation will prevent it warping or swelling. Carefully painting the edges, especially the top and bottom which are usually neglected as difficult to get at unless you have the lift-off hinges I recommended will reduce risk of swelling

Even an open porch will prolong the life of a wooden door greatly, and reduce the need for frequent repainting.

here's n example of a hardwod doorframe. The price looks rather high to me. note that it comes with good rubber draught seals which are better than the stuff you buy by the roll at DIY sheds.

If expanding foam is used between the frame and the wall, as well as screws, it holds it very firm and seals any potential draught cracks.

this is a good lift-off hinge. If you see an Eclipse one at a good price, it may be even better. Stainless is stronger than solid brass and wears better. The PVD is a vacuum-deposit and is supposed to stand up to weather better than ordinary brass plate. You will need three hinges on an external door. You can get plain stainless hinges if you are going for chrome furniture and a painted door.

BS3621:2007 is the latest standard for thief-resistant locks (2007 is the year of revision). This Union is a best buy. A nightlatch is a useful addition but not as strong.
Wickes own-brand locks are made by ERA and quite good. They will be better than the locks on a plastic door.

Thanks PigletJohn, you have been very helpful. We do have an overhang porch roof so hopefully that will protect the door from the elements.
I will let you know how we get on.
I will try to find a good joiner. In the meantime, any more off the peg front door recommendations are very welcome.