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Stair gates for a Victorian house with spindley banisters? Help!

16 replies

BedHanger · 25/03/2013 09:19

Since the arrival of his baby brother, hitherto fairly sensible DS1 (2.5) has decided to start trying to get up and down the stairs on an hourly basis. He's never shown an interest before, but I'm worried he will injure himself and we urgently need to get some stair gates in.

Trouble is we have a spindley banister, weak wall and shallow steps. Any ideas how we can make it safe, please?

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KatieLily12 · 25/03/2013 09:26

I saw a great idea on Pinterest where you get those permenant gates that you can drill into place. Drill then to some spare wood and tie that to the banister. Would that work?

Lurkymclurker · 25/03/2013 09:29

We have a similar issue and have resolved it by adding a child gate to the livjngroom door preventing access to the bottom of the stairs and then another gate on DDs room upstairs, it does mean that dd has to be with one of us if upstairs and not playing in her (child proofed) room but we are now used to it.

flow4 · 25/03/2013 09:55

I got gates with 'cap'-type fittings that screwed into the wood. I didn't want to do it, because I wasn't happy at the thought that I was damaging the wood, but couldn't find alternatives. Now, a decade on, and obviously several years since the gates were removed, I can't actually find the filled holes in the woodwork :)

PigletJohn · 25/03/2013 10:17

surely you have a sturdy newel post?

when you say weak walls, do you mean crumbly?

Get some brown plasplugs, a masonry drill, some 2-inch screws, a tube of no-more-nails or own-brand equivalent at a tenth the price, a vacuum cleaner with a hose, a squirty spray bottle or houseplant mister, and a damp sponge.

Mark the wall where the screw has to go. Identify that there are no switches or sockets directly above or below, or horizontally to the side.

Drill a hole that is long enough and wide enough for the plug and the screw to go all the way in. For the moment, it doesn't matter if it's loose.

Use the vac hose to suck the dust and grit out. Use the squirter to wash the remaining dust and grit out and immediately sponge away. Verify that the hole really is where you want it. Verify that the screws are long enough that, even after passing through the thing you want to fix, and the plaster (which may be an inch thick in an old house) they wil still go an inch into brickwork. Wash out the sponge.

Go and make some tea while the water dries up or soaks in.

Squirt the adhesive into the hole, starting with the nozzle dep inside so there is no air bubble at the back. Withdraw the nozzle as it fills. Push the plasplug deep into the soft adhesive, using a screw as a handle, so that it is at least an inch into the brickwork. Verify that the screw is still in the right place. Remove the screw if it will come out without distubing the plug. Smooth off the adhesive with a wet finger and sponge the wall clean.

Leave it overnight.

The next day you can drive the screws into the plugs and they will be held firmly in the adhesive which will spread the load and prevent the hole crumbling.

Also works for picture rails, kitchen cabinets etc.

7to25 · 25/03/2013 11:06

At 2.5 with shallow steps, is he not old enough to either negotiate the stairs himself or be told not to use them?
Can you train him to come down on his tummy?

7to25 · 25/03/2013 11:06

Feet first.

BedHanger · 25/03/2013 11:25

7to25, I agree that he is and this is the approach we've always taken (hence not having a stairgate), but this seems to be attention-seeking behaviour due to the arrival of his new brother. DH and I do our best not to react but there's no telling the PILs, who are staying with us at the moment, and have a tendency to react in an OTT fashion every fecking time he does it.

PigletJohn, thank you for your advice. There is a reasonable newel post but it sits alongside the front edge of the second step up from the bottom. The issues with the wall is that it's (I think - we're straying here into territory I don't really get) lathe and plaster.

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PigletJohn · 25/03/2013 15:09

ah

L&P walls are built on a framework of timber studs, probably about three feet apart, with one at every corner and doorframe. If you tap on the wall you will probably be able to hear them.

If you drill into one of the studs (no plug required, just a long woodscrew) it will be strong. If your drill just falls through the plaster, you are in a gap.

redwellybluewelly · 25/03/2013 15:22

We have similar re the spindles and bought lindam gates with pressure extender one side and V extender the other. The V goes either side of the spindle.

Previous house we couldn't drill (rented) and so used a collapsible gate. We've also considered a gate in the hallway downstairs rather than bottom of stairs as I (humbly recognising my lack of coordination) often trip on the gate at the bottom of the stairs.

flow4 · 25/03/2013 15:22

Great descriptions, PigletJohn... You should start a DIY blog! :)

PigletJohn · 25/03/2013 15:28

who knows what I get up to?

redwellybluewelly · 25/03/2013 15:38

I can spot a pigletjohn reply a mile away, an unsung hero (or heroine) of this section of MN!

NaturalBlondeYeahRight · 25/03/2013 15:46

We had this and did what lurky did and had stair gates preventing access to stairs. Taught them to 'do' stairs intensively. Worked for us.

BedHanger · 25/03/2013 16:05

Redwelly, can you link to the kind of gate you're talking about

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BedHanger · 25/03/2013 16:05

Missing a ? there Blush

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redwellybluewelly · 25/03/2013 16:14

Will do when I get back on laptop . tonight

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