Help. Burst radiator.

[harbingerofdoom]

Nobody was in the room where it has burst but as we walked by we could hear dripping. As it's been raining non stop....
I think that we have isolated the radiator (finding the spanners was interesting!)
What would you do next?

efficiency 69% I should have typed.

after "Prima GC" is there a number such as GC Number: 41-607-80 ?

Thanks for your help Piglet John. I will get DH to look later today/this weekend when he goes up to get the Christmas decorations down.
I'd be very interested to know the state of this tank! Sounds like it could be the root of our problems. If it's looking as you describe, should we have it drained and refilled (along with a corrosion inhibitor)?
AFAIK it has never been drained in 17ish years.

Is this tank the cold water tank (big) or is it hidden under insulation and junk?

it will be about 18"x12"x12" and made of black plastic. Inside will be a ballcock (float valve) like in an old WC cistern. It ought to have an insulating jacket and a close-fitting plastic lid to keep drowned wildlife out.

If you are not fond of DIY plumbing, you are going to have to learn, or get local recommendations for a plumber whose joints don't leak. The work I have in mind does not require a Gas Safe engineer as it does not involve any work on the boiler.

Please also search the house for the radiator drain cock. It will be at or near the lowest point. If you installer had any sense it will be close to an external door so you can put a hosepipe on it to drain outside. The might be one by the boiler or cylinder as well, but that's not the main one.

There might also be some radiator valves with drain cock incorporated. These are not as good but a useful extra, and essential if your ground-floor radiators are fed from pipes coming down from the ceiling. Worth adding if you need to replace a rad valve.

gosh harbingerofdoom, that sounds like a real pain! bursting rads are no fun.

we have one of those big feeding tanks in the loft, that Piglet John is talking about. My ds2 (7) thought it was a hot tub and was wondering why it was installed all hidden in the loft. actually, Piglet John as you are on this thread, could you tell me what would be wrong with our overflow pipe if seems to leak a lot of water; sometimes in a drip-drip sometimes in a steady waterfall onto the roof of the garage below? we are a little worried that in the frosty weather it will freeze up and burst and create chaos in the loft and potentially worse. what would be the cause of the water level to rise so much in the tank that it would reach the overflow? and how could this be corrected?

Sounds like we need to find this tank......and take it from there. It's now clear in my mind what needs doing.
The thing that still puzzles me though is that the damaged radiators havn't been too sludgy and the water (dripping out) has been clear not rusty.

"would be wrong with our overflow pipe if seems to leak a lot of water; sometimes in a drip-drip sometimes in a steady waterfall onto the roof of the garage below"

most likely the ballcock is leaking and needs a new cone and washer. It will be quicker to take the old one off and fit a new one, rather than struggling in the dark in cramped conditions. You can re-washer the old one at your leisure on the kitchen table when you have plenty of time, give it a clean and hang it up in the loft in a plastic bag ready to swap back in another 20 years when it needs doing again. Usually the new valve will fit on the old stem by undoing the big nut in the middle (see pic). Practice removing and refitting on the kitchen table with the new one until you can easily do it. You have to turn off the mains stopcock first. Move the float to adjust the water level so it is only two inches above the outlet pipe at the bottom. Get a brass valve in preference to a plastic one. You need a Part 2 valve which has the little plastic bridge on the top to prevent contamination of the drinking water. This Pegler one is much better than the cheaper ones. You can buy a new ball float if you want, or re-use the old one

Screwfix will deliver, or you can pick up at your nearest store. B&Q will charge more.

You will need some low-quality wrenches which Tesco also sell

p.s. mowit

If that doesn't cure it, your HW cylinder may need changing £££££££

Try the valve first.

thanks piglet john!
don't like the look of all those £££££££, so will have a go at the valve as you said. will probably end up sending up dh, as i am not good on wobbly ladders, but at least i can now shout directions. he will wonder where i got the knowledge.

mowit

does your cylinder have a stiff plastic foam coating, and is it yellow, green or blue?

It's wonderful to come over all knowledgeable about heating/plumbing .
Till a month ago I could only bleed the radiators and get the boiler serviced once a year.

harbinger, i know... but now we "have" piglet john . sorry for piggy backing your thread.
PJ, the cylinder is kind of yellow/brownish.

MowIt- happy to share. Be warned though, I am now looking at plumbing forums (a).
I've always liked to know how things work and if I remember correctly I had a double volume book called 'How it Works' one was green,the other red.

'mmm yellow is quite old.

yep, am not surprised it is old. think it is probably coming up to 30 years. mind you, 30 is NOT OLD at least i'd like to think so!

we are thinking of replacing the boiler, which is probably on its way out and horribly inefficient but i don't think there 'll be any money left in the barrel for a new cylinder. think that if it will last us a few more years, that we might replace it with a bigger one, and install solar panels to "help" the boiler out in heating it up.

That book set is still on my shelf 'How things work', Paladin,1974 .
My Which DIY book doesn't cover heating systems.

harbinger
"I am now looking at plumbing forums "

this one?

A quick glance