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Rewiring, carpets, damp GAAAAAAAH

19 replies

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 09:37

Please help if you can! Looking for any advice you can give...

We have a two bed basement flat and have just been advised we need to rewire and resolve damp issues immediately. Flat was damp proof coursed about 5 years ago (b4 we moved in) - and evidently not well enough. Is there a better way of resolving damp issues than DPC'ing again?????

If we are rewiring, we may as well get carpets (job we have always put off) done. Is there anything else worth doing at the same time? Are there any other issues we should get checked out first? Yes, it will cost more, but I'm thinking we may as well get all horrible expenditure out of the way. We are planning to be in the flat for another 3-5 years....

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kittycat68 · 13/09/2012 09:42

when you purchased the house you should have had a damp certificate, ask solicitor for a copy if you dont have one. the morgage lender would have a copy too. these certificate are usually for twenty years so go back to the company that issued it and raise the damp issue with them it will be a thier cost to sort it out.

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 09:44

@kittycat, I know that but I've read on here that loads of the companies are total charlatans. Are there other ways of sorting damp than DPC'ing? I'm sure I've read them on here in the recent past.... (can't find in search unfortunately)

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PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 09:57

the damp treatment will probably be useless, but the certificate will have made the mortgage company feel that something has been done.

start by increasing the ventilation and searching for signs of a water leak (may be in a wall or under a floor)

Where is the damp? Which rooms, where on the walls?

Does anybody drape wet washing around your home, or have showers without running the extractor?

skandi1 · 13/09/2012 10:27

Is the damp visible in specific areas/patches or is the flat damp overall generally.

I am assuming as you say it's a basement flat, it was tanked as opposed to just an injectable dpc?

If its generally damp but no patches then, as Pigel says, increase ventilation, dry laundry outside/in a dryer and perhaps replace the bathroom extractor with a more powerful model.

If its showing in patches then the tanking could have failed in just those areas. If you have put up shelving/pictures etc then you could accidentally damaged the tanking and this is why the damp is again coming through

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 10:30

Hi PigletJohn

Damp is mostly along one party wall (terraced house) in a couple of small patches about shoulder height to me, just above radiator. Worst when we are cooking, but kitchen is opposite side of flat.

It is also, and worst, in one bedroom which is in extension to original building. Worst in one corner (party wall) and along the party wall. This is the room with the boiler in it.

We drape wet washing all the time - not enough radiators and no space for a tumble drier.

No way of running shower without running extractor (unless you want to shower in dark) but extractor stops as soon as light off. Also very old extractor (as is one in kitchen) so suspect its none too good.

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brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 10:32

Hi Skandi - afraid I don't know what tanked or injectable model is?

It is in patches, but these patches are nowhere near where shelves etc have been put up.

Can superficial cracks in walls be due to damp problems?

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skandi1 · 13/09/2012 10:46

Is it a proper basement or a lower ground floor flat? I would say its has been tanked but tanking can fail for a variety of reasons.

The certificate should have a plan attached showing the areas which were treated and state how they were treated. This will help you identify the areas which need work.

It sounds like two issues. One you need more ventilation in relation to cooking and showering. Open a window when cooking and replace your extractor. For the bathroom, it sounds like your lights and extractor are wired as one terminal which means you may not be able to seperate them to run the extractor longer. Still upgrade your extractor to the most powerful model you can and leave the lights on for at least 10mins after finishing in the shower.

Second issue with the damp patch at shoulder height could be failure of damp treatment. It could also be a pipe leaking from your neighbour next door.

In the first instance dry flat out best you can and replace extractors. Then get a professional in to ascertain where the damp patch on wall may be from.

You can get cracking in walls from damp but you will usually see damp patches with it unless the general atmosphere is so damp it's causing the plaster to fail but this is very unlikely.

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 10:54

Thanks Skandi that is really helpful.
You can see damp patches next to the cracking.
What kind of professional should I get in? (I am Useless emoticon)

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PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 10:56

You'd better start by getting a tumble drier and finding somewhere to put it. Draped wet washing is the main cause of condensation, damp and mould in UK homes. You will think me unsympathetic, but if I went into a home where the occupiers were complaining of damp, and found they were throwing a bucketful of water at the walls twice a week, I would not forgive them just because they said they hadn't got room to install a sink.

Preferably get a vented drier. You can get a Core Drill from a tool hire shop (or employ someone to do it) and you will be amazed at how easily it cuts a neat round hole in the wall for a duct. While you have it, you can also add one behind the kitchen cabinets or in any other room that needs more ventilation, and add a plastic grille and duct.

You can buy a more powerful Centrifugal fan. To fit one with a timer needs an extra wire from the light switch or fitting, which might not be easy if you have no access above the ceiling.

PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 11:02

p.s.

If you find a damp patch, tape a piece of clear plastiuc tightly to the wall. If moisture forms on top of the plastic, it is condensation. If it forms under the plastic, it is coming through the wall.

If the damp patch on the party wall has the neighbour's bathroom on the other side, it is probably their leaky shower.

skandi1 · 13/09/2012 11:08

I would do as PJ suggests first and save your money for the professionals once you have eliminated the damp you cause (condensation) and you can then narrow down what comes from elsewhere.

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 11:11

Piglet - brilliant! I will try that tonight.

As we currently have no electrics (except for lights) and therefore no washing, cooking or hot showers drying the flat out will be relatively.

I have gone round the houses trying to find a tumble dryer. When I say we don't have any space, I'm not being pathetic, we literally don't (our kitchen is tiny, our existing washing machine is smaller than average and there is no TD i've found that is smaller. Also the window wall is opposite side (imagine kitchenette off sitting room) so no way of getting vent sorted. Or there is a way, but that would involve completely redoing kitchen, which I would love but is less a priority than the electrics (and damp) and we don't have the money for it.

Centrifugal fan and timer thing really good idea, thank you.

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PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 11:30

well start by hanging your washing in the bathroom, with the fan running continuously and the door shut

A typical extractor fan will run for 50 hours on 14p worth of electricity. If you have an energy-saving lightbulb in there it will cost about the same.

lalalonglegs · 13/09/2012 12:50

Could you get rid of your current washing machine and buy a washer-drier?

Brilliant idea PigletJohn about taping plastic. I will remember that next time>

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 13:15

@lalahlonglegs, sadly no because we can't find a washerdrier small enough to fit in the space (believe me I have looked everywhere).

The damp is actually secondary to the immediate issue which is the rewiring. Does anyone know if I'm right to think it needs to be sorted out first (because no point putting new wires in damp walls). DP doesn't seem to think so.

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PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 13:59

the damp won't hurt the cables, but hacking off plaster afterwards will.

Tanking or lining the brickwork (you can get special semi-rigid plastic sheets that allow water to drip down behind them under the floor, to a drain or pump) will work, but is fairly expensive. It is usually reserved for underground jobs like cellars where you can't stop the water. You replaster over the top. Any sockets or cables will be removed or destroyed in the process.l

Silicone injections are pretty useless and it is said that they never cure on a damp wall.

PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 14:07

p.s.

If you are consulting a well-recommended local electrician who is a member of a competent persons scheme say I suggested running a Radial circuit along the damp wall(s), in oval conduit, instead of putting it on a ring with the rest of the flat.

If that row of sockets, or part of it, later has to be disconnected and re-run it need not disrupt the rest of the flat. He will understand this if he also does Commercial or Industrial work (some Domestic Installers have very limited experience).

brighteyedandbushytailed · 13/09/2012 15:29

Thank you Piglet, your advice has been really helpful.

I have just been quoted FOUR THOUSAND POUNDS for the rewiring. Yes, we are London but still! Two bedroom flat. . Hoping other quotes come in cheaper....

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PigletJohn · 13/09/2012 15:56

rewiring a house costs the same as buiying a second-hand car

Get some personal recommendations, and check the contractors are on the website of their Competent Person Scheme.

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