Gossip on Edinburgh commuter locations

[ImposterJen]

My OH has just got a job at the University of Edinburgh and we’re relocating from England. I’m after gossip and sociological insight into who lives in different areas around Edinburgh.

About us: we’re an academic and disability activist, middle middle class (have lived in working class and posher-than-us areas previously), a bit arty, don’t like bigotry, but can also get annoyed by extreme fluffiness or community inclusion pressures (for health reasons I don’t want to need to do lots of community activities to fit in). Main activity would be dog walks. We like period properties with character and a view in a quiet location, but we’re not millionaires.

Do any areas spring to mind for us to feel right at home?

We’ll probably buy somewhere outside of Edinburgh (up to 45min commute) but we’re also interested in insight into Edinburgh neighbourhoods.

Places we think we’d like in preference order: Dunbar, Musselburgh, Aberdour, other East Lothian locations, other commutable Fife locations, Rosewell

Would we fit in in these places?

We’re intrigued that we can get more house for our money in places like Bo’ness, Bathgate, Inverkeithing. Why? Please be honest and specific.

BTW I have to confess I’m an imposter on this site - for health reasons I haven’t been able to have children. However, I’ve noticed that MumsNet is the best place online for getting honest feedback from women in my age group. This also means we can ignore school catchment issues - where would you move if you didn’t have to think about schools?

I live very close to Dunbar. Have you considered some of the smaller villages, hamlets or steadings around Dunbar or North Berwick itself? You may find a lovely period property here. The area is amazing for dog walks - coastal and lots of woods.

The area (I feel) is very inclusive although, it must be said, typically white. In my experience, there is very little pressure to get involved with community activities unless you want to. There is loads going on in Dunbar though and amazing new initiatives like a co-working space coming. The town has a lovely buzz and is kniwn as Sunny Dunny (apparently sunniest place in Scotland, although not in November!)

East Lothian is typically more expensive than West Lothian or Fife. It is very picturesque and the commute is a bit easier, I think.

@rockingaroundthemulberrybush thanks. Houses in the areas around Dunbar will come up in our rightmove/ESPC alerts. The main issue will be that Dunbar is fairly doable because of the quick train, so wouldn’t want to add too long a drive to the station.

Which train stations is it realistic to park at, and is this expensive to do for a regular commute? I saw somewhere that around Linlithgow station spaces are taken by 7:30am - which makes commuting from places like Bo’ness more annoying. Are there any park and ride (train) places in that type of area? Our current car is electric (does that come with any parking perks?) and my partner has a licence to drive a moped so we could get one for easier parking/quicker driving.

Bo’ness is cheap because it some really rough areas and you need to get to Linlithgow to get a train

Inverkeithing is cheap because it’s over the bridge and it’s a dreadful commute in winter

Bathgate is just a bit meh

I’d focus on east/mid lothian

@luckygreeneyes thanks. So the Inverkeithing reason would apply to everywhere over the bridge? I’ve heard mixed reports about how doable that commute is. Does anyone here do a train commute from across the bridge?

I have lived in places some people would consider rough (when we tried to foster social workers were reluctant about our last address). Is it dangerous rough or just mixed types of people in Bo’ness? I can see from street view that the housing stock is very mixed. We might be prepared to live with that if it means we can afford a really nice house. Would we be the only arty middle class types in Bo’ness?

Are there any up and coming areas left? Where are artists and LGBTQ folk moving to? (That’s the precursor to gentrification

Pretty much, you tend to get more for yourself money outside the bypass then more over the bridge.

Bo’ness Is really mixed, nothing totally dreadful though I don’t think

What’s your budget?
Linlithgow is the most Englishy of your list. V big on community activities. Trains are busy though. Aberdour is lovely. Arty middle class in Inverkeithing, umm I’m sure there are some never found any myself, I would think Bo’ness similar.

I’m presuming your husband is in one of the university buildings near the station.

Artists and LBGTQ are moving to Glasgow.

East Lothian has lots of lovely places and Dunbar is gorgeous. Not sure how much arty middle classish things you are expecting on your doorstep or is it the vibe you mean?

Artists and LBGTQ are moving to Glasgow

Very true.

Artists don’t live in the suburbs ...
all the areas you are looking at are far from trendy or particularly interesting... the real artists I know live in gorgie having now been gentrified and priced out of leith. The richer ones still live in leith or portobello. Pathhead has a large music community but doesn’t sound like a good fit for you particularly. Only people I know with electric cars live in the city, but I’m sure you could have a charging point installed where ever you would settle. LGBTQI are not a tribe, you will find them living everywhere! 😊

East Lothian is beautiful and has a few wonderful music festivals, artisan shops and easy commute. This is why it is more expensive and more attractive than West Lothian and fife to some people.

I think we would like East Lothian, if the right house comes up at a price we can afford. Probably we need patience.

My partner is visiting tomorrow and doing West Lothian this time. Seeing houses in Bo’ness, Linlithgow and Blackridge. Any further thoughts on those areas?

@21seconds we’re definitely not looking for a trendy area. This is a middle age move, we’re after somewhere fairly quiet with pleasant dog walks. I think we’re fairly adaptable socially but arty, liberal or academic types tend to click with us more easily than other groups of people.

The artist thing was a passing comment about a sociological phenomena that they tend to spot affordable housing with character that has otherwise been overlooked by more conventional types (probably they notice the aesthetic appeal more than the stereotype of an area). Where we live now I first noticed when I visited an artist as part of my job. At that time it wasn’t talked about as an area, though it has period houses. We bought on the next street from him and our house has more than doubled in value in 7 years.

Though of course LGBTQ folk are everywhere too, there are reasons why there can be more of us in some areas. BTW I should probably have been clearer that we’re a same sex couple ourselves. I guess we were part of the LGBTQ thing of picking up on what the artists had noticed. This is a thing, not off the top of my head. Think I heard it on Thinking Allowed R4.

And bizarrely if a lesbian couple move into a street house prices go up IIRC 2% (don’t think this is because people want to live next door to lesbians, but part of the artist>LGBTQ>hipster>professionals gentrification trajectory).

Though I also have mixed feelings about whether gentrification is a good thing, which is probably a totally different discussion to have...

Other suggestions I’ve had recommended:
Prestonpans, Cockenzie and Port Seaton,
Eskbank,, Gorebridge, Melrose, Lauder,
Blackness, Philipstoun, Torphican and Ecclesmachan,
Haddington, north berwick, Gullane and longniddry,
South Queensferry, Dalmeny, North Queensferry

Avoid: Bonnyrigg, Loanhead, Penicuik, Roslin, Easthouses and parts of Dalkeith.

Do you disagree?

I think you just need to get up and get a feel for places yourselves, it might be the house you find that makes the decision for you and you both might fall in love with somewhere completely unexpected!

@21seconds yes probably, but it’s making me nervous because I’ve lived here most of my life and this type of insight into the types of people in different neighbourhoods I’ve built up over 30 years. I’m not confident about picking it up immediately in a new place. We can pick up if we like a house or view immediately though.

Also I think Scotland might be a bit different (in a good way) but I’m not sure about the subtle cultural differences. I feel England, or pockets of England, is going in a worrying direction. Casual racism seems to be becoming more and more acceptable and people seem to be becoming more right wing. We’re white ourselves, so that’s not an immediate threat, except that it’s unpleasant to be around (and various bigotries tend to go together- I’m queer and disabled so what do they say about those categories when I’m not there?!). Tiring to always challenge it or uncomfortable to sometimes let it slide.

There is a working class conservatism in our immediate neighbourhood (the existing pre artist>LGBTQ>hipster>professional folk ) who will share views while walking dogs in the park which are quite strange to us. Everything can be blamed on immigrants (who might not actually be immigrants). eg it’s much more difficult to win the lottery now because of immigrants. What? How do you get to that conclusion?

Middle class conservatives aren’t much better, though they have more of an idea what to say when. Islamophobia seems to be acceptable fairly casual conversation.

So if we’re trying to create a social network from scratch I’d like to be somewhere there are some open minded, creative, liberal people around (doesn’t need to be an homogeneous bubble). I’ve joined a few of the local Facebook groups as one way to suss this out. I think Dunbar seems good for this criteria.

Bo’ness isn’t ‘rough’, like any small town (pop 16k) there’s a few streets I’d not be keen to live in. It’s an expanding commuter town with new houses going up and every house sells in a week; nearly all bought by Edinburgh commuters. Linlithgow station is a 5 min/3 mile journey, parking will ease once Winchburgh train platform opens. Good community spirit; esp for ‘The Fair’
Winchburgh is an expanding former village, 3000 houses being built. Definitely more for your money in West Lothian side, sadly a lot of snobbery from people regards some towns. The pp saying that about Bo’ness has obviously not been near in awhile if at all 🙄

Bo’ness has a community theatre and puts on arty middle class fodder. Perhaps indicates there’s a local audience for that type of content? Or local conservative middle class just put up with it because it’s an evening at the theatre and that’s what the small group of thespians want to put on?!

Also Bo’ness is great for dog lovers, woods, shore, 5 mins from gorgeous Blackness beach.

Bo’ness would surprise you, lots of interesting things to do, has a busy recreation centre, events on at Town Hall; gin/beer festivals etc. I think it’s a very misjudged wee town.

@JKScot4 thanks this is exactly the type of detail we’re after. I have a relative who moved from there 10 years ago, so assessment might well be out of date. It sounds like a place we were considering moving to in SW England.

We can afford the nicer roads in Bo’ness. Which is amazing for us as it’s going up several deciles on the multiple deprivation scale compared to what we can afford here. I’m not put off by a mixed area, in some ways that feels healthier, but I just don’t want to be somewhere no one will get me.

It sounds like you live there? Do you commute to Edinburgh?

What’s the lowdown on Winchburgh station then? This is a new station opening?

I would say Edinburgh itself is your best bet socially.

Inverkeithing is ok, some rough bits and a nice sense of community but not what you are looking for in terms of community.

Dalgety Bay, between Inverkeithing and Aberdour, is definitely very middle class but I would say pretty conservative socially and exceptionally dull.

Aberdour, I would say is lovely but demographics are older.

Dunfermline is pretty good, there is some good and arty type things going on but you would need to dig a bit for them. Lots of good dogwalks in the glen, Townhill country park and various other locations.

N and S Queensferry are also both nice.

Burntisland is a few miles along from Aberdour, lots of nice housing and people I know who live there are fairly involved in the community. The beach is lovely and loads of dog walking there.

Linlithgow would definitely fit your needs, loads of nice dogwalking around the loch and Beecraigs park.

The train from Fife to Edinburgh is pretty stressful during commuter times, all stations have limited parking. The park and ride buses from Inverkeithing and Dunfermline are both excellent and get you into the centre of Edinburgh in around 1/2 an hour for £6 return a day.

I have honestly very rarely encountered islamophobic or racist attitudes here, the whole of Scotland is far more left wing than England although there are pockets which are conservative.

@ImposterJen
I moved here 7 years ago from Glasgow, I don’t commute but know plenty who do, it’s an easy quick journey to the station.
Winchburgh is nearly all new builds unless an older village house becomes available. New schools, sports centre being built, most definitely a commuter town.Your OH could easily pop by and look in the show homes, get more info if they’re out and about today.

Don't go to the Borders. Train links are precarious, being cancelled without even a moment's notice and the towns are dying. Plus, they are very insular and you are never allowed to forget that you are an incomer. Musselburgh is a lovely area and there are others a little further away, but before Dunbar and North Berwick (which is lovely but expensive) that are very commutable but a bit cheaper housing-wise.

I love these threads as I know the areas well.

Do you are a couple, no kids, dogs, broad minded, arty, want an ok commute to Edinburgh?

I would say East Lothian is your place. Lots going on culturally, easy access to Edinburgh , beautiful walks/trees/beaches, friendly. I would possibly say avoid north Berwick as maybe hard to meet people if don’t have kids? Would also agree with a village feel. Don’t rule out somewhere like haddington (no train but good buses) or aberlady. Gorgeous lesser known little villages behind dunbar but adds to the commute.

Parts of Midlothian are great - Dalkeith is on the up, eskbank is right next to it. The train is a shocker in terms of overcrowding but ok buses. Also lovely wee villages just outside like Middleton.

Portobello is great for community/more diverse and I think that is spreading to musselburgh way.

I adore the borders but a harder commute.

I would agree edinburgh might be better socially in terms of meeting people. Somewhere like liberton or fairmilehead

Oooh I’m on the avoid list! Interesting!

It would be helpful to know your rough budget and how many bedrooms etc. The places you’ve mentioned vary wildly in what you’ll get for your money

Have you checked out Portobello? Very community spirited and arty. Still a bit up and coming but not the cheapest. Teaming with dogs and has a beautiful beach and prom, plus lots of parks. Technically in Edinburgh but not the fastest to get to the uni. Train into town in 10 mins (although not the best service) or bus in about 30 mins I think.