Can anyone advise on living in Brussels?

[Weta]

I'm trying to get my head round possibly moving to Brussels... can anyone recommend suburbs to live in? I'd be working in Evere.

Also the schooling system - the British schools look far too expensive so I think we'd probably put the kids into local schools or possibly the European school (in Laeken I think it would be). Any advice? DH is French and we live in France at present so DS1 (5yo) is bilingual and currently goes to a local Catholic "école maternelle".

Thanks

Weta

I worked in Evere! In the large international organisation there, and left in 2006. You need LongtimeinBrussels and Scaryteacher to give you more up to date info.

Unless you (or your DH) are working for one of the European Institutions, it's virtually impossible to get your kids into the European Schools, if you do manage it, they do have a good reputation.

There is a Catholic school in Brux which has British teachers, which is cheaper than some of the bigger international schools but I don't know what it's like.

Re where to live - the British Ghetto (Tervuren) has easy access to Evere, as do Hoielaart, Stockel and anywhere out that side. But if you are in the Zaventem area, you need to make sure you're not under the flight path as it can get a tad noisy.

If you're not fussed about an international school, you could live in one of the French speaking communes (Stockel is nice) and use one of the local Francophone schools.

Thanks for that... I would be working for the EU, so I guess the European school would be an option, though in some ways I'd prefer my kids to go to school locally rather than trekking across town.

Thanks for the info on suburbs - British ghetto doesn't really sound like us as we'd rather be more integrated (and I'm a Kiwi anyway!), but will look out for the others you mention.

Whereabouts did you live? and did you enjoy Brussels?

Weta

We lived in Evere up til 6 months ago. My dd still goes to school there (2nd maternelle). Though we've now moved to Zaventem as we wanted more space and a garden. The great thing about Evere is it's public transport connections - easy to get to the city, and also out to the motorway/countryside. The downside is that it is, well a bit dull. A lot depends on your budget for housing I guess and whether you're happy with an apartment or want a house with a garden.....

Given a choice I'd live in Kraainem (which is officially dutch speaking, but has a french school) or Woluwe St Pierre - around Stockel and Place Dumon there are lots of shops/restaurants/ a cinema / parks etc. Also home to a lot of ex pats. Accommodation tends to be pricier though.

Woluwe here

Evere here

If you'd prefer a local school, you can technically enrol in any one of your choosing - doesn't have to be near where you live. Practically speaking some are more popular than others, and people do actually camp outside certain ones for days to get the opportunity to enrol. I think this more the case for secondary schools than primary though....

They're normally either run by the French Community, or Catholic. There are some alternative methodology schools too eg Rudolf Steiner. Pretty much all of them are open between 7.30 and 6pm and cover the non-school Wed pm and school holidays with a garderie. Afterschool care, and school dinners costs me around 100 euros per month.

I do love Brussels - it's very family friendly and there's lots to do. Food is not too bad and it's always lovely in the winter with all the Xmas markets and big log fires in cafes - and vin chaud - and the CHOCOLATE of course. And in the summer, lots of sunny terraces to sit on.

The Belgians tend to be a bit conservative and it can take quite a while to get to know people and they never seem to socialise outside work in the way I was used to in the UK.

Thanks, PP, that's really helpful. Chocolate is definitely a big attraction Fortunately I do already have a very good friend there (who would also be a colleague) which should help...

We would like a house with garden, not entirely sure of budget! Would you have a rough idea of prices for renting/buying in Kraainem or Woluwe St Pierre? are prices starting to come down with the recession etc?

We live in Woluwe Saint Lambert in Brussels - very nice leafy suburb, good parks, schools and shopping. I have two dds 4 and 20 months. DD1 goes to the local french maternelle which has been very accomidating of my poor french skills. Our neighbours are very friendly and i have managed to live here without a car and travel everywhere on public transport with my two dds.

Its a great place to live as others have said - if you are worried about socialising with english speakers join the BCT (brussels childbirth trust)- good if youve got younger kids.

HTH

Personally I've only noticed prices going up! Rental prices in the areas mentioned are probably 1300 euros a month and upwards for a decent house. Really nice villas are 2000 euros plus. Apartments are less. Evere was a bit cheaper - we paid 1200 euros per month for a 3 bed, 2 bath apartment just of Rue de Geneve (where the EU buildings are). This was for a brand new, high spec place. You can get much more of a bargain though if you're happy to go for an older or smaller place. Here is the place to look to check out rental/purchase prices.

I too joined the BCT. Haven't been to much though as working FT. Have been for a few of the girls nights out and have recently volunteered for the Xmas Fun Day in an attempt to meet some new people.

Xpats is quite a good source of local info too.

BSB, you must be quite near to me! First person I've come across in here in Brussels - i think Belgo is somewhere in deepest Flanders.....

Thanks BSB, it's good to know people are so positive about Brussels! I'd have to work FT for the first 9 months but might well send DH along to the BCT DS1 is 5 and DS2 is 15 months.

PP, thanks for the extra info. Decent house but not a really nice villa is what we'd be looking for! That's about the rent I was expecting, so that's ok.

Weta - There are quite a few Dads who come along to the groups at the BCT so your DH wont feel out of place.

PP - we are not too far from Zaventum - very near the Vandervelde metro station and within walking distance of Wolowe Shopping centre (not good when you are trying to budget!). I will probably see you at the Xmas Fun Day as dds are already getting excited about it.

Ooh a real life Mumsnetter! I'll let you know what activity I'm supposed to be doing when I find out. Better brush up on my gluing and glittering skills.....

I second the BCT - it's been really great for me and DS and a real comfort to have people you can speak to easily.

My French is still patchy but I can generally make myself understood, and people no longer reply to me in English which I think is excellent progress!

One thing I would say about living in Brussels is to try not to get too wound up about what you may perceive as poor customer service. I used to get really, really upset when I had several rude shop assistants (though this was compounded by preg hormones on my part, mostly).

Generally is a nice place to live. I'm in Woluwe which has lots of good points and I'd recommend it to anybody thinking about moving to Brussels.

Thanks... definitely sounds like you're progressing with the French!

We live in France now so am fairly used to what I regard as bad customer service

Can you give any info on house prices in Woluwe?

Hmm - we're renting at the moment and it is reasonably pricey but in a nice part of town, though it depends what you're used to paying I suppose. Where we were living in the UK previously was quite costly to live so wasn't too much of a shock.

This site might help:

www.vlan.be

We live in Tervuren, which isn't really a Brit ghetto - it's just that a lot of the Brits who work at the EU (like my dh) and the large four lettered international HQ in Evere get houses here as it's near the British School. Most of us have Flemish landlords and Flemish neighbours.

DH lived in Evere before I moved out here. It's nice, but quiet, and we had to walk about 15-20 minutes to the nearest tram from where he lived.

Tervuren is nice and green; has a great park and the arboretum for walks/cycling. The British school contacts group has a lot going on for newcomers to help them settle and organises trips as well.

DS is at the British school as that's where dh's employer pays the fees. As dh is only at the EU for 3 years and then may return to work in Evere again, or we may be sent back to the UK, it seemed sensible to keep him in the UK system, so that he can slot straight in to year 10 if we go back.

I've been here two years and really enjoy it - the weather is just like Cornwall only slightly more chilly; I can see sheep in a field at the back of the house; there are 5 chocolate shops within cycling distance and the beer is good.

Depending where you are working in Evere and where you live, you may have to drive in to work. DH could not have done the Tervuren - Evere commute without a car. Now he works at the EU he trams and metros in each day, unless Amazon are delivering that day, when he needs the car to get it all home.

A 4 bed house with garden along my road was being offered for rent for ?1500 the other day; my place is about ?2100 per month (but we don't pay anything like that as dh's employer pays that, and we pay them a cheaper rate.)

Hope that helps.

Scaryteacher - does GB in Tervuren still have the Aisle of Shame ("A Taste of Britain"?

I know your end of Terv is less expatty than where we were (estate behind GB), but really, I don't think there were any Belgians in our road. Not all Brits - we had Germans, Dutch, Finns, Koreans etc

We miss Belgium and would love to go back but are probably moving elsewhere in the next year or so.

GB does - but it's lots of American food on there as well. The Ambrosia custard is cheaper there than in Stonemanor, and it saves having to drive up there for whipping and double cream as well.

We have Belgians in our road - the two houses in front of us are Belgian families, and there are a lot of them at this end - including Prince Laurent, and they don't come much more Belgian than that.

Not sure when we're going back to UK - we need dh to get another appointment here as ds will be starting year 10 in Sept 2010, and we are supposed to move back a couple of months after that. I need to know fairly soon, as I have to start looking at schools in UK for ds to be able to make an informed choice about it.

Just to let you know re: transport: I think that if you cycle to work, the whole journey or part of your journey, you get paid to do so by the government.

Scaryteacher may correct me on this? Some of the teachers at school do/did it.

Don't know about that - my dh is paid by the UK govt and they don't give anything away!

Thanks ST, that's all very helpful. The EU doesn't pay much towards school fees, and we'd expect to stay in Brussels permanently, so I think we'd go with either a local school or the European school in Laeken.

BSS - unfortunately I don't cycle (!), but DH might eventually once he got a job.

It's the Belgian govt or the commune. Something like 30c for every kilometre you cycle. Certainly at least one expat teacher I knew when I was there claimed it but of course I don't know the ifs buts whys and wherefores. How helpful am I. Sorry.

Scaryteacher - I used to buy the Luxlait cream which was fine for whipping/double cream use.

I used to go to NATEX or the PX in Germany for my American food fix

dh now EUMS so can't into those!

Ah, I had friend in USAF who used to get me into the PX without all the palaver of getting an access card from the Yanks!

I must know your DH, mustn't I?

I don't know if we established that you did or not. He worked in Evere from 2004-2007, a not very tall (clue) bearded and cuddly submariner with three rings on the IMS.