Meet the Other Phone. A phone that grows with your child.

Meet the Other Phone.
A phone that grows with your child.

Buy now

Please or to access all these features

Living overseas

Whether you're considering emigrating or an expat abroad, you'll find likeminds on this forum.

Move to Chicago: thread 2, sorry, more help please..!

82 replies

shaktar · 29/08/2019 15:04

Thank you so much to everyone who gave advice on my last thread, it's been an amazing help. We visited for a week, back yesterday, and I've more questions if you don't mind helping..

So, we had a tour with a relocation agent and saw all the areas we asked about: Oak Park (thinking this would be a comparison for N Shore), Evanston and a few places on the North Shore (bits of Wilmette, Highland Park, Lake Forest).

We ended up waiting 90 mins for a delayed train at Lake Forest which may have unfairly biased against the area but have essentially decided it's too far out (husband will be commuting to the Loop every day). I think we had some dream of stretches of beaches and lakeshore accessibility on the North Shore and have realised that is not the case. So: although it will ultimately depend on what houses are available close to a decent elementary school when we arrive we have loosely decided on Oak Park, Evanston, south North Shore.

Here is my question (sorry for epic post) - how safe is Oak Park? I feel ok about Evanston and North Shore but liked OP and we are concerned about availability of rental houses in Ev and NS after hearing horror stories from realtors. But, for every 3 online love ins for Oak Park there is a warning about safety regarding surrounding areas. Any experience or anecdotal evidence of how safe it is - particularly the commute into downtown - would be incredibly helpful.

Please chuck any advice you have at me anyway - offer letter will be signed next week to move in early Jan and then there's no going back (visa issue permitting) so I will be haunting this board regularly.

OP posts:
Expressedways · 30/08/2019 00:51

Oak Park was recently voted the coolest suburb in America:
www.apartmenttherapy.com/oak-park-illinois-guide-32253252
I don’t know it well I’m afraid, hopefully some more knowledgeable suburban Chicago dwellers will be along shortly, but it has an excellent rep. The dodgy surrounding area I’m assuming is Garfield which is an absolute shit hole but I’ve been to Garfield Park conservatory which is amazing and lived to tell the tale. It doesn’t have any impact on Oak Park as far as I’m aware.

noroominthefridge · 30/08/2019 08:47

Didn't read your other thread so apologies if duplicating.
You might find this information useful:
data.cityofchicago.org/Public-Safety/Crimes-Map/dfnk-7re6

shaktar · 30/08/2019 13:46
Shock
OP posts:
pumkinspicetime · 31/08/2019 16:24

The problem with Oak Park is the areas around it. But I don't know anyone who lives there so I don't know how much impact if any these areas have.
If you moved there you would just need to be clear about where the boundaries are, particularly at first.
I do agree that the commute from north lakeshore would be a long one though. We didn't fancy it when we looked at it.

BlauVogel · 31/08/2019 22:04

Marking the thread, as i too am in the same boat. Moving to Chicago by the end of the year.

The areas i ve shortlisted so far are Evanston, Morton Grove, Skokie and Lincoln Park. Any idea where to look for school grade equivalency and reliable Ofsted type rating? My 2 DCs are 7 and 10 and i am not sure school grade will that be in Chicago.

Thnx

drsausage · 01/09/2019 00:45

I have friends living in Oak Park - they love it. I've visited them and watched their kids play baseball and had dinner at their house. The area seemed lovely - I remember thinking that if I lived in Chicago it would be high on my list.

DH works extensively in Chicago and says not to worry about safety in Oak Park. He also said it's easy to commute into the city by public transport.

drsausage · 01/09/2019 00:51

Any idea where to look for school grade equivalency and reliable Ofsted type rating? My 2 DCs are 7 and 10 and i am not sure school grade will that be in Chicago.

Look at greatschools.org and niche.com for school ratings. They're pretty accurate. You could also look at the US News school listing that comes out once a year but I think that's only high schools.

In the US we start school a year later than in the UK, so a 5 year old will start in Kindergarten, 6 year old in 1st grade, etc. So a 7yo would probably go into 2nd grade and a 10yo into 5th grade.

However if they've been at school in the UK they may be ahead, in which case you could look at putting them a grade up, especially if their birthdays are towards the beginning of the academic year.

Bear in mind schools in the US generally allow students to be held back a year if their parents request it, so you might end up with your children being in a class with other students quite a bit older than them if you put the up a year.

mathanxiety · 02/09/2019 08:02

I have many years experience of living in Oak Park.

It is extremely safe.
I am talking doors unlocked, safe to walk around at night, incredibly responsive police if anything goes wrong (unfortunately the only thing that made OP unsafe for me was my exH). Kids ride bikes around, people go for walks, teens go to the movies, you can freely walk around without worry.

The Village and police work together to eliminate graffiti, which tends to be a toe in the door for gang activity. If you see some you can make a report to a hotline iirc. There is a Township Youth office that co-ordinates with the Police to form relationships between police and teens. Police hang out at public basketball courts. There is a youth curfew that is enforced for the most part.

The high school boasts many resources to boost student wellbeing - social workers and counsellors and deans of discipline working together to head off trouble. Again, there is co-operation with the police dept.

Oak Park is bordered by Roosevelt Road to the south, Austin Blvd to the east, Harlem Ave to the west and North Ave to the north. All are busy streets. North and Roosevelt are commercial corridors, Harlem is commercial in spots, and Austin is far less so.

The surrounding communities are Berwyn and Cicero (north western edge of Cicero) to the south, by River Forest and Forest Park to the west and west-south west respectively, and by Chicago to the east and north.

Berwyn is largely WC Hispanic along its north end that borders OP and is a safe municipality. Cicero has a bad reputation from its days as Al Capone's stomping ground, but it's very WC Hispanic now, and quiet.

Forest Park is safe (it's where OP goes to booze, has lots of bars and also lots of quirky shops and good restaurants along Madison Street). Forest Park is in a high school district that used to be one of the worst in the area but activists on its board managed to get a new Math and Science Academy built so it's becoming quite a hot place for property values. It used to be the place where you bought your first home, sent your children to RC elementary school, and then sold up to move to OPRF District 200 for high school. That is gradually changing. There are newer apartment and townhome developments and house prices are rising.

River Forest is quite UMC, mainly residential, and has a very low crime rate. West of River Forest is Maywood, separated from RF by a big area of woodland and the DesPlaines River. Maywood is a dire place. However, River Forest is incredibly safe. Again, very responsive police, plus the big nature preserve buffer. The community is very homogenously white and UMC whereas OP is a lot more diverse (still MC-UMC).

A little further west again is Melrose Park, home of Costco at North and 1st Avenue. Melrose Park is run by the Mafia but it's safe.

North of River Forest is Elmwood Park, again with strong Mafia links, but very safe. North of Oak Park across North Avenue is a neighbourhood of Chicago called Galewood. Two former governors of Illinois lived there before their election, one the notorious Rod Blagojevich and the other the fairly harmless Pat Quinn. It's a very MC part of Chicago.

The Austin neighbourhood of Chicago is the one next door to OP. It is plagued by violence and crime, gangs and drugs, but once you cross Austin Blvd to OP you are in a different world. I once walked home from West Suburban Hospital (situated on Austin) at 3am (long story - I had accompanied someone there in an ambulance and they were stable by 3) because I only lived a few blocks west and thought a taxi would be overkill. I encountered only bunny rabbits Smile.

South of the Eisenhower (I-290) OP borders the Chicago neighbourhood known as 'The Island'. It's a quiet little enclave. Just north of the Eisenhower, from the highway to Jackson Blvd on the Chicago side is Columbus Park, again providing a buffer. The stretch of Austin from Jackson to North Avenue is the part of Austin where any overflow of problems from Chicago can be felt in OP.

All areas of OP are safe to live in.
If you wanted to be completely sure of your safety, don't live on the OP side of Austin Blvd itself, and probably avoid the first two-three blocks west of Austin. South of the Eisenhower you will find, in general, any street east of Lombard and anywhere a block north of Roosevelt Road will be very nice, and also quiet. Austin Blvd south of the Eisenhower has a lot of highway-related traffic. Austin is noisy and there can be a lot of sirens as there is a hospital on the OP side.

Apartments tend to be older in OP, walkup style (no lifts, stairs outside at the rear and inside in the front). Three floors is the norm. There are newer high rise apartment buildings too, some currently under construction. Washing machines in the older apartment buildings tend to be in the basement and you can expect to pay $1.50 per wash and the same for the dryer. Central AC is only available in new buildings.

Nearly all the streets have alleys running behind the houses/ apartments. This is where the wheelie bins are, and people set up basketball nets, older kids hang out to shoot hoops... Garages open onto the alleys.

Parking in OP is a true PITA unless your apartment comes with a dedicated spot, or your house has a parking bay or garage. Residents often rent out parking spots. Overnight street parking comes with a quarterly charge of $130 or so to the Village, and there are regs about when you have to shift your car, snow route parking - all available from the Village of Oak Park website.

OP has two local train 'El' lines (Blue running along the Eisenhower and Green following Lake Street) with several stops on each line, as well as a Metra (long distance commuter rail) stop at Harlem/North Blvd which serves OP and RF has a stop at Central Ave. The Metra is non-stop to Union Station, with the trip taking 20-25 mins, and a little longer if the train stops at Kedzie in Chicago. You can get some crazies on the El, but normal rush hour (to 9pm ish) and daytime travel is usually problem free. A trip downtown (depends on your stop) will take 40 - 45 mins or so, which is far better than a trip by car, especially as the Jane Byrne interchange is in a state of destruction/construction right now, and train is a lot cheaper too.

The Village strives to provide excellent services and by and large succeeds - leaf and snow removal and salting of streets are probably the biggest co-ordinated efforts you will see. But there are also the three excellent libraries (connected to the metropolitan area loan service) - the Main Library is fantastic but the Dole and Maze branches are wonderful smaller outposts serving north and south sides of the village respectively.

There are two public pools that are open all summer, and a year round rink. There are public tennis courts, a skate park, dog parks, basketball courts, a beach volleyball court, lovely neighbourhood parks/playgrounds, pitches for soccer (AYSO) and fields for T-ball, softball and baseball (OPYBS). Summer camps are offered by the Park District as well as multiple other schools and organisations. Sport is huge - many organisations offer coaching, organised leagues, etc. Music is also huge (Children's Chorus, School of Rock, public and private school bands, local orchestra that is very good indeed, excellent concerts held in local churches, Fitzgerald's Bar on Roosevelt in Berwyn holds sold out music fests and concerts by big names, lots of people living in OP are members of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra...) Drama is really big too, and you honestly couldn't throw a brick without hitting someone coming from or going to a dance class. Or yoga. OP is yoga central..

People are friendly - your neighbours will introduce themselves and you will be expected to tell your life story, hang out, go to the block party, take part in Hallowe'en, decorate your house for various holidays, chat. People give neighbours their keys, shovel snow for older people, lend a ladder or a particular tool, or a helping hand if you're having car trouble.

There are lots and lots of friendly teens to babysit.

mathanxiety · 02/09/2019 08:07

...any street east of Lombard...

Should be 'any street west of Lombard', sorry...

mathanxiety · 02/09/2019 08:14

I've been to the Garfield Park Conservatory too! Went by train from OP. Definitely a dodgy neighbourhood, as is most of the west side, but the conservatory is a hop and a skip from the station.

OP has a wee small conservatory of its own, boasting a koi pond and a few resident parrots (and the odd mouse) plus a very nice children's water/sand area that is fenced off. People go to the conservatory in winter to enjoy the nice warm tropical and desert rooms and remind themselves that winter won't last forever.

mathanxiety · 02/09/2019 08:16

@shaktar - I agree that Lake Forest is pretty far out.

Expressedways · 02/09/2019 12:19

BlauVogel - I know Lincoln Park really well, unless they go private most people want their children to go to Lincoln Elementary:
schoolinfo.cps.edu/schoolprofile/SchoolDetails.aspx?SchoolId=610038
The rest of the areas you’ve listed are very different and will be a different kind of lifestyle. There’s lots of good info on the OP’s previous thread but if Lincoln Park remains on the shortlist you let me know if you have any questions!

pumkinspicetime · 06/09/2019 20:55

blauvogel Lincoln Park is great but public schooling is an issue there. We know one family that have managed to rent somewhere that gets them to the decent older dc's school.

It might also be worth looking at Lakevuew area. It is less lovely than Lincoln Park but still very nice and your money rents you a bigger house.

BlauVogel · 06/09/2019 21:44

Ah, Thanks for the tip. I am also looking at:

  • Skokie but taxes are high there.
  • Morton Grove but schools dont seem very good.
  • Evanston but there isnt much on rental market there.

My brother and Parents are in Lincoln park, so i would prefer to be closer to it, if I can.

pumkinspicetime · 07/09/2019 17:17

If your family live there you are going to know much more than me!
Lakeview, Roscoe Village areas are nice areas full of families and obviously adjacent to Lincoln Park.
But I don't know about property taxes (we rent) or public schools.

shaktar · 06/11/2019 13:20

@mathanxiety
I've just realised I didn't ever say thank you for responding to this with such detail. Oak Park is v high on the list now, thanks to you. We are in visa limbo at the moment and will start looking at rentals (arriving mid Feb hopefully) once it's come through, fingers crossed.

We have obviously picked an extreme time of year to arrive weatherwise so if anyone has any advice on clothing needed for adults plus 6 and 7 year old girls, I'd really appreciate it. I'm also assuming that public schools won't have a uniform so hoping that the small girl uniform of leggings, jumpers and trainers will be ok.

OP posts:
LittleMy77 · 06/11/2019 13:52

We're in NY so its not as cold (but still gets baltic!) I have uniqlo thinuslate thermals that are are thin enough to wear under regular clothes so you dont need bulky jumpers all the time

One thing I've noticed is most places have the heat whacked on high so even if you layer up, you'll end up sweating profusely!

My advice would be invest in a good quality coat and boots - there's a ton of insulated boots out there, some more snow boots (useful if you'll be walking to school etc) style and some are like regular boots

I have a regular insulated down knee length coat (looks like a duvet but warmth over style!) for every day wear, a 2 layer snow / ski jacket and separate pants (cheap from target!) that I use if we go out in the snow and decent boots. I also invested in a good hat and leather gloves

DS (4) has a 3 in 1 jacket (inner removable fleece, outer waterproof padded jacket) and snow pant dungarees and will get snow boots again (if I can get ones that fit) We use the jacket every day for school, the pants when it snows and we want go and play, and hat, waterproof gloves and a snood type scarf. School here ask for good shoes / boots if its been snowing so they can play out

The challenge you may have depending on when you arrive is what you can buy here, as a lot of stores tend to move their next season stock on v early. I've found most stuff in the UK doesn't insulate enough, altho mountain warehouse over there had a pretty good line of stuff

shaktar · 07/11/2019 12:03

@LittleMy77
Thank you thank you. I'm finding it's this type of question that swirls around my head at night rather than the impact of moving continents on the kids etc..Blush

OP posts:
HoldMyLobster · 08/11/2019 15:34

I'm actually just packing DD's winter gear to take to Chicago for her and made me think of this thread.

What we have for winter in Maine...

Down jacket - I have a warmer one and a less-warm one. Mine are from Eddie Bauer and Lands End. My children's are from LLBean. DD has something like this one www.llbean.com/llb/shop/122697?page=women-s-ultralight-850-down-hooded-jacket&bc=&feat=down%20jacket-SR0&csp=a&searchTerm=down%20jacket.

Good gloves - we usually buy something like this www.llbean.com/llb/shop/111766?page=kids-multisport-stretch-gloves&bc=&feat=gloves-SR0&csp=a&attrValue_0=Black&searchTerm=gloves and a few pairs of ski gloves. I buy Walmart ski gloves for small children because they'll get lost, but Lands End are also very good. I have enough lightweight fleece gloves to keep a pair in every coat just in case.

Good boots - we often go somewhere like DSW to get them www.dsw.com/en/us/category/womens-snow-boots/N-1z141jrZ1z13vo6Z1z128ujZ1z141ju, or LLBean or Lands End. I have one pair that cost $30 from Target that are fine.

A couple of hats.

For smaller children they'll need snow pants to play in the snow and often for walking to school/playing in the playground. Again I quite often just got these from Target or Walmart rather than buying more expensive.

Warm scarf or two - fleece or thick knitted scarf.

We buy LLBean stuff from the Outlet or when we get money-off vouchers so we rarely pay full price.

We also sign up for Lands End emails so we usually get 40% off there.

Both companies do no-fuss returns so you can buy more than you need, and return what doesn't fit or isn't used. You can return Lands End to Sears stores (at least you can to ours).

HoldMyLobster · 08/11/2019 15:40

A couple of other things to watch out for with moving kids to the US, from our experience. DD was 6 when she moved. We could have put her up a grade, and perhaps we should have, but we kept her with her age group.

They will learn things like the Pledge of Allegiance and other US patriotic shiz.

They will most likely develop an American accent to fit in. People may make fun of their accent initially, but in the long term they're mostly impressed by it.

They will be uninformed initially about sports teams and how much they matter. DD was laughed at for wearing a Yankees cap - she only had it because she liked it, but everyone here supports the Red Sox and the Patriots.

Big teams in Chicago www.choosechicago.com/articles/sports-and-recreation/a-guide-to-chicago-sports-teams/. Hockey, baseball and football (American football) are particularly huge. They're also a lot of fun to watch, and violence at games is not a thing - they're very family friendly.

School generally starts earlier in the day than in the UK, the day is longer, but the school holidays are longer.

Personally I found moving there with children was a great way to make friends. People in Chicago tend to be friendly and warm.

dreichwinter · 09/11/2019 21:57

Snow pants are useful, as are ski jackets, hats and gloves. Snow boots are good for walking and playing out. With indoor shoes being carried In a bag.
Thermal leggings, tights and socks are all useful.
English accents are much loved, people comment a lot on dc's. Scottish accents get less attention.
First year here I wore patterned thermal underwear out and about for several days before I realized they weren't leggings.

knitnerd90 · 10/11/2019 03:47

Lands End and LL Bean are my go-tos. In Chicago you will want snow pants as well as coat + boots. I am a fan of woolly tights also.

Your DC are little, yes? If so I would keep them with their age group and not worry about them being a bit out of alignment with UK curriculum. It doesn't perfectly line up in either direction. If they were in secondary academics would be more of a concern. (One of my nephews in UK is exactly the same age as DC#2 so I've had chance to compare)

Americans love English accents and often can't tell the difference between large chunks of England. While American sport is quite a big deal for many, I've encountered a lot of Americans who are fans of the Premier League (it's on US TV). And football/soccer for kids is very popular so if your DC like to play that they will have plenty of opportunities.

As well as the patriotic stuff, American schools in and around big cities are staunchly secular. You hear all about how religious Americans are, but this is one exception (no nativity plays, religious assemblies, any of thatat our schools, they only do generic winter crafts and no Christmas songs that mention Jesus). Also, outside of Chicago proper, no uniforms. Now that my eldest is in high school, fashion is a bigger issue, but it wasn't a problem in elementary. School lunch is hugely variable in quality so you'll have to see how that goes. Lunch can be quite rushed in some schoolsyou may find your DC ask to bring sandwiches to avoid the queue so they have time to eat.

In my area elementary school is still on late start--8:50 to 3:35 but some areas are starting to switch so the little kids go early and the high school has the later start.

HoldMyLobster · 10/11/2019 14:31

I went to a Chicago college football game yesterday. Four hours long and cold! I wore snow boots, thick leggings, T-shirt, long sleeve top, down gilet, down jacket, a fleece-lined hat and at one point I wore fleece gloves under my ski gloves. For a while we didn't need all that, then the sun went behind the stands and it really cooled down.

So much fun - my first ever football game. The atmosphere was brilliant.

shaktar · 12/11/2019 18:52

Thanks so much everyone - I'm beginning to get excited amongst all the charity shop runs and digging out of paperwork for the embassy Confused

OP posts:
dreichwinter · 13/11/2019 03:31

Feels like -13 today, roads are sheet ice and snow is in dirty piles.
I don't love winter here!

Swipe left for the next trending thread