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Struggling with move to Berlin

49 replies

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 13/03/2016 20:41

I recently moved to Berlin with DP and our small baby (DP got a job here). I have always wanted to try living abroad and loved our holidays in Germany, but now that I'm here I'm not enjoying it all that much. I don't speak the language, which is causing me more anxiety than expected, I thought I'd just 'muddle through' and get on with things. I am taking German lessons (3 hours per week) but it's hard to fit in enough practice around the demands of my baby and a lot of what I've learnt so far isn't very relevant to my life. I have not yet needed to ask for a pencil sharpener!

I've found a couple of English speaking baby classes to go to but not really clicked with anyone there and it's only 2 hours of my week taken up. The rest of the time I feel really lonely, we go out for coffee and cake far too often just to get out. Then I feel bad because I should be happy to be having this adventure and spending time with my lovely baby. Has anyone else experienced this isolation and managed to make it work? Any survival tips would be welcome! I want to be happy here but right now I have a strong urge to run for the UK hills.

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DeputyPecksBentBeak · 14/03/2016 19:50

I have a pregnant expat friend who lives in Litchenberg, is the that anywhere near you OP?

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 14/03/2016 20:11

I'm not that close to Litchenberg, further south. I tend to head in to the centre of Berlin most days though as there's more going on and I'm less obviously an outsider.

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Malermalergoni · 14/03/2016 21:35

I just remembered something. Are you familiar with 'mutterzentren'
www.muetterzentren-bv.de/en/mothers-centres.html
It's In English too. They were a lifeline for me actually.... Not only were the women quite revolutionary and very educated about birth and babies, the centres were a great hub for a play, sometimes little cafes.... But also a wealth of info about local groups, Language classes etc.

Malermalergoni · 14/03/2016 21:39

And also the schokofabric in kreuzberg? Have a google if you haven't found it already x

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 14/03/2016 22:26

Ooh I'm not familiar with mutterzentren or schokofabrik but they both look ace. I shall have a proper look in the morning. Thank you! x

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Malermalergoni · 14/03/2016 22:43

And for an excursion...
www.tropical-islands.de/en/
Have you seen this yet?!

boredofusername · 15/03/2016 11:42

Go to the Gruenewald as soon as the weather picks up (but take a map) - lovely walks, cafes and you can fill a whole day. Or Weissensee as you say you are in the east of the city.

I speak fluent German but my experience on a visit last year was that everyone speaks English and wants to show it off. In fact I went into one of those Ampelmann gift shops (by the Gendarmenmarkt I think) and the shop assistant was English! Are there any English bookshops in your part of the city? As someone mentioned, you may be able to find a language partner and if you go there, by definition people in there are likely to speak English and might be happy to do coffee etc.

And definitely try to increase your language hours if you can.

PommelandCantle · 15/03/2016 11:57

I think there is a British school in Berlin. Could you "investigate" your DC going there and find out if they have socials for prospective parents. Perhaps they hire out their halls in the evening for exercise classes or something. When I lived in Brussels I went to Zumba at the British school - met loads of people. They weren't all English, but they spoke it.

PommelandCantle · 15/03/2016 12:01

Also, for your German - you could do an Open University course - I know they do German. As you moved for DH's job, you should be entitled to student finance if needed.

It does get better - we moved in Nov when prem DS was 4 weeks old. Turned out one our "neighbours" down the road was English and had never had children. Immediate Granny (and babysitter later on).

You sound like you are doing a great job of finding your feet.

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 15/03/2016 12:19

I really like the look of the tropical island but DP isn't keen Hmm

I'm on the very outskirts of the east and I've only met one English speaker so far, an older man who helped carry the pram down a couple of steps. When I asked if they spoke English in the bank they laughed. I guess it means I get to inflict my substandard German on people practice. We are hopefully moving nearer the centre of Berlin in a few months.

I'm going to investigate ways of increasing language lessons around caring for baby, whether that's through an OU course or a private tutor. How old do children need to be for British school? DC is only 6 months so could be a bit young yet. I'd possibly like to send her to a bilingual kita part time in 6 months or so.

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Schwabischeweihnachtskanne · 15/03/2016 12:42

Hi

We moved to Germany almost 9 years ago - I was in a similar position to you; practically no German, DH working from day one, had a small toddler and I was also 7 months pregnant.

We moved to a village though, so that was different, as was the toddler (22 months) rather than baby and the pregnancy.

Toddlers are a massive socialising help, and they help you learn the everyday language too, as you learn together (then they overtake you once they are 2.5 and translate for you when they are 3 and correct the spelling and grammar in your emails and notes to school for you when they are 7 Shock Blush )

Are you staying long term?

My experience was of absolutely massive emotional peaks and troughs for the first 5 years, but now I am settled and despite never having managed to do more than the first 3 or 4 lessons of a German course Blush have a "locals" type job and consider this home and would rather live here, and feel more at home here than the UK by a long way - this does have a lot to do with seeing my children flourish and be total locals with so many friends here.

Winter is hardest - we moved in early summer and my motivation was initially high, I was really quite driven to throw myself into things, but my first big, bitter, furious, hate everything, emotional "trough" came in about late January, 6 months after moving here and with a nearly 2.5 yo and a 4 month old - then things got better again for no clear reason a few months later. You will almost certainly feel better in proper spring (we are in a part of Germany that looks colder on paper than Berlin, but on our one visit to Berlin I found the technically slightly warmer on a thermometer weather bone bitingly cold - somehow the Bavarian winters are crisp cold which numbs your nose and fingers and toes but doesn't sink deep and chill your very core like the Berlin cold did! Or maybe that is fanciful :o )

I joined toddlers groups immediately - to the extent of having to look up how to ask, then ask everyone in the village playground (as little local toddlers groups aren't listed on the internet, which was my naive expectation). Once I found one people took me under their wing and it was a great way "in" - but it helped that I had a toddler who people were generally intrigued by as she was teeny tiny, bald, chubby and rosy cheeked (so looked younger than she was, like a baby) very, very active, running about and fearless, and talkative (speaking in fluent, clear and endless English sentences at 22 months and picking up German at an intimidating rate), and very sociable. In all honesty DD did a lot of my integrating for me. Again that will be easier for you in a few months when your baby is a toddler.

I never really clicked properly with any of the ex pat groups. There have been people I have got on with, but there is a feeling of everything being temporary - everyone either goes "home" or talks endlessly about going "home" or compares here negatively with "home", or goes the private international school route which becomes all encompassing and the source of social lives for the whole family at primary (and still talks about going "home" as that is often why they chose international school). However in your first few years the groups can be a lifeline. Toytown is a very bitchy place if you post asking for advice, but is a good resource to search and find groups on.

I'm with you on not wanting to go out in the evenings when you've spent all day with a baby/ babies/ babies and children - you don't have to do that to integrate, though it does work for a lot of people, it really depends. Is there any kind of facebook English speaking parents in Berlin type group? There was one for our nearest city which people did arrange pram walks and meet ups and book swaps and all sorts thorough and really did get to know one another - good if you are in a city.

Good luck - you can get through it, but you do have to put yourself out there and meet people. Don't stop going to the German groups but try a different one if the one you tried first were unwelcoming - just the same as you would in the UK!

Don't let the Oma police get you down - somebody told me they are lonely old people who can't think of any other way to strike up a conversation than to "lecture" or "correct" "young mums", and it helps to look at them with a bit of pity :o Also they only do it to young, open, smiley types I think - they don't do it to you if you have a German-resting-bitch-face (pretty sure I had the German-resting-bitch-face to end them all by the time non sleeping DC3 was a few months old, as nobody dared give me so much as a tiny hint of advice even if he was bare headed in November :o )

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 15/03/2016 13:30

Hi Schwabischeweihnachtskanne

'Oma police' made me laugh! I'm getting used to them and try to be as nice as possible but the one who said my baby was panicking really annoyed me. Maybe I'll work on the resting bitch face!

We're not sure whether to stay long term, we're going to see how we feel in a year or so. The language is the biggest obstacle for me, if I can crack that I know I'll be loads happier. I find some of the Ex Pat groups aren't my cup of tea either, cliquey and negative. And I don't really identify as an 'Ex Pat', why am I not an immigrant like everyone else? But they are at least a way of socialising DC a bit and speaking to some other adults.

Your toddler sounds ace! Looking forward to when DC is a toddler but trying to enjoy the baby months too. I feel sad that my friends aren't getting to know her, first baby of main group of friends so she'd have a lot of doting 'aunties/uncles' back in the UK. It's one thing that makes me want to go back. I can be shy when I'm out of my comfort zone and take a while to make friends.

I know the more I get out there, the easier things will get. And some sunshine would certainly help! We were caught out by the Berlin cold. First weekend was spent frantically buying hats, scarves and baby snowsuit!

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Malermalergoni · 15/03/2016 13:33

Yes I second the suggestion of investigating the social events offered by international/English schools. Because of such a mix of cultures and nationalities you'll find they will have full calendars of events and celebrations, fetes, meets etc. They may even have a person employed simply to keep families up to date with local events, toddler groups, integration. Ours did. Twitter is really handy too for keeping up to speed with what's on.

NewYearSameMe · 15/03/2016 13:38

The worst thing about a Berlin winter IMO is that, no matter what direction you are walking in, the wind always seems to be blowing in your face. The wind chill factor is pretty high too, it was often windy enough to make a comfortable -5C feel like -20C. The good thing is the they don't have a long wet spring like we do, it moves very rapidly from winter to summer.

badg3r · 15/03/2016 13:52

Hats off to you for tackling young baby plus move to a new city! I have lived in a few different places and that part after the honeymoon period when you have to just get on with making friends and a normal routine is SO tough. I spent a lot of time only understanding the first half of a conversation and then just copying other people's expressions to try and fit in! I would try and force yourself into German speaking situations as much as you can, even though it's really frustrating at first it will only keep getting easier.

But seriously, well done for grabbing the bull by the horns and going for it!

Schwabischeweihnachtskanne · 15/03/2016 14:04

Oh by the way on the German courses and being done in by evening/ not giving up every evening with DH...

Have a google about for a daytime course with on site babysitting (Kinderbetreuung im Haus). There are some "Mama lernt Deutsche" type courses with free creches - VHS (life long learning type institute that does all sorts of courses - classes in schools or community rooms but they will have an office as well as a local branch website) or a Mehr Generationen Haus or a mutterzentren would all be places to try (via google to start with, or ask if you find a mutterzentren).

If you can take your baby with you to your German course during the day it will also serve the baby group function to a degree and you won't have to study in the evenings and might feel more like going out one evening a week socially instead (does Berlin have an International Women's club?)

SpidersFromMars · 15/03/2016 14:50

There are a few events on www.meetup.com/cities/de/berlin/ which could help you to meet people and speak some German.

Jocart75 · 15/03/2016 15:57

Hi, I don't live in the center of Berlin, but I do work here and have a little girl who's 2.5 years old. Once the weather improves here I think you will start to like it more! What area do you live in, and have you tried going to a Kindercafe to meet other mothers? Even without any German there are a lot of women in your situation in Berlin, stuck here with a new baby and not enough German to really chat to strangers. I do speak a fair amount of German but still found myself feeling lost when my little one was still small and I was on maternity leave (apart from imposing myself on a good friend occasionally :) ). At least in the Kindercafe you can eat cake, drink coffee, give the little one toys to play with and listen for any other English speaking mothers. Also if the staff speak any English they can tell you if there are any specific English mothers that come in and what days and times. There are so many to chose from too that you could make it your mission to visit all of them, and maybe in the evenings write a blog reviewing your findings, that way other mothers may find you ;) You really don't need German here once you find your own little clan, and once the sun is shining and you can get to the park with the little one, you may also find other parents making the most of the good weather while their kids play in the sand etc. Bike rides may be good, but they are solitary and won't necessarily help you find other people, plus I'd be terrified to cycle on the roads with my little one after seeing the driving hahaha :P
Feel free to private message me if you wanted to meet up for a coffee and a chat at any time, and hang in there, Berlin is great for kids and not that scary once you get used to it xx

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 16/03/2016 07:53

Thanks for all the support and some really useful info.

Jocart75 I will pm you if that's ok. There aren't any kinder cafes near me, there's one cafe full of elderly locals and that's it, but if I could find one that's fairly central I'd travel in.

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bagpusss · 16/03/2016 16:42

Summer really is great out there. You could try this place for support, or somewhere like it: www.start-relocation.de/english/

Lalalili · 25/03/2016 10:14

With the Oma police I was genuinely shocked at the level of interference by random strangers when we had babies (baby too warm/cold/bored / pram too close to traffic fumes etc.)

It was easier to take when I realised that people feel a sense of collective responsibility for children. The flip side of interference is that nobody would hesitate to intervene if a child was misbehaving, doing something unsafe, not using zebra crossings, bulling another child at the playground etc. Since German kids are often out unaccompanied this does help to keep them safe. Quite a culture shock though.

It is tough being foreign in any country at first. Esp with a baby. The less easy, but maybe long term better, option for non German speakers is - I think - to avoid expat and English speaking events for the first year or two and thow yourself into local German mother and baby groups. DC and I basically learned German from other parents. I had to psych myself up to go every time for years . It wasn't easy but it was worth the effort and we all made good friends. The other women were extremely welcoming. You might have to insist on speaking German though as everyone wants to practise English.

Good luck OP, Germany is a fab country. We stayed for years in the end.

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 25/03/2016 20:04

Thanks Lalalili

I'm getting used to the Oma police now but it certainly was a big culture shock! Good to hear that there is a positive side to it. My baby is teething at the moment, and a noisy child at the best of times, so attracting a fair bit of attention.

I feel really anxious about going to German baby groups even though rationally I know it's the right thing to do. I have a bit of social anxiety which seems to be getting worse over here. Feeling like I can't communicate is stressing me out! My German classes have been cancelled for the last couple of weeks so feel like I'm not progressing, although I understand a lot more of what I hear and read.

I do really like Berlin and want to make it work so I'll keep trying Smile

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monkeywrench · 25/03/2016 21:09

I am in southern Germany, so not much help, but can suggest this place maybe for some socialising, it is a friend of my kids Oma's place, they do daytime stuff too, it isn't just a club, it is very multi-kulti and alternative, and you would def find english speakers there, if not other english people.

www.yaam.de/

It is hard, i have found, but you have to put yourself out there, as it were, and then you slowly slowly meet people and then you even meet people that you get on with!!

Dontgiveaschnitzel · 26/03/2016 09:58

Thanks monkeywrench. I had planned to go to the refugees carnival but angry teething baby had other ideas. Meeting people I get on with is the dream!

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