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Living overseas

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Reunion Island

14 replies

auntierozzi · 06/09/2011 10:53

Does anybody live there or know any Brits who do? I'm English and have lived in France for the last 20 years. DH is French and we have 2 little girls who we adopted in China. The Reunion Island is part of France with more exciting weather, hopefully not too exciting. We like the French ways and think it would be good for girls and us to live in a more culturally diverse community. We've been in Normandy for the last 8 years and do love it but the Viking heritage lives on..I'm ok with that!
I am going to miss my few English friends who know what the Archers and like Marmite etc...
All the best to you mumnetters.

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fraktious · 06/09/2011 11:11

Meeeeeeeee! Meeeeeeeeeeeeee! I live here!

We've not had a good hurricane for a couple of year Grin but the weather today is lovely - sunny, warm and a bit breezy.

When are you arriving? Where are you going to be living?

auntierozzi · 06/09/2011 12:23

Hello!!!! I'm so pleased to find you! I just read in the paper that there have been 5 metre high waves bashing on your coast. It's really windy here too today. My DH is waiting for his contract to be sent. It's been promised this week. He will probably be there on his own for a few months. I will follow on later, maybe around Christmas time with my two girls (aged nearly 8 and nearly 9) and cat. He's going to be at l'Etang Salé in an appartment to start off with. Where are you? How long have you been there? Are you staying long? Where are you originally from? Are you working? How old are your kids? Have you had many visits from your folks? Hope you don't mind all my questions! Tell me about cyclones...and volcano! Do you think our cat will be ok there?

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AuldAlliance · 06/09/2011 13:31

I lived in Reunion for 10 yrs. Left in 2005.
Frak has more up to date info than I do, but if I can help out in any way, let me know...
There are quite a few English speakers, many very settled, often with French spouses.
Etang Salé is nice, the south of the island is very pretty, more laid back than the north, but therefore maybe a bit more dull, depending on what you like.
If you like walking, climbing, diving, etc., it is heaven.
I am very, very Envy, I'd love to go back.

AuldAlliance · 06/09/2011 13:32

P.S. your cat will be fine!

fraktious · 06/09/2011 13:49

I've not noticed them but I'm in the north.

Volcano, sicks up occasionally, very pretty, tough climb! Means your house and car insurance go up hugely...

We're in St Denis, I work at the university, been here since 2009, probably leaving next August (but that depends on the military), originally from England, 1 baby DS, family come out about once a year, we fly back about once a year, questions not a problem Grin and yes, the cat will be fine.

I would rather live in Etang salé than St Denis I think. We used to live in La Possession which was deadly and dull as ditchwater.

auld knows more than I do cos she was here longer and things don't change that much

AuldAlliance · 06/09/2011 13:54
auntierozzi · 06/09/2011 14:37

Good to hear from you and thanks for offer of help. Were you working out there? We're just waiting for this contract to come through. My little girls are madly in to ponies. Could you recommend a friendly club? Our neighbour here goes out there a few times a year and tells us about all the parties and rum drinking and beautiful women!!! Better not leave DH out there too long to his own devices.....(!) Glad cat will be fine :)

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auntierozzi · 06/09/2011 14:50

Ohh...I hope the military decide that you should stay a bit longer! Where might you go after that, do you know? It's hard to get an idea of what it is like in the towns, there's lots of touristy info. or community info. on the net but not much everyday stuff. Are there any department stores? Can you get things like soya milk and Rooibus tea? Is it true that all our furniture is likely to warp? We might just sell it here. Thanks for your advice about the different areas. I would be interested to know anything about schools. Maybe Auld knows. Do you have a nounou for your little one?

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AuldAlliance · 06/09/2011 19:15

I worked there, yes.

Lived in the south for 4yrs and in St Denis area for 5yrs. (I lied when I said 10yrs, I was there from 1995-2005, but had a year off in the middle).

I think there is a riding club around Etang Salé as we used to see them riding along the beach there, but know no more about it.

Are you going to be based in E. Salé itself?

What age are your daughters?

I have friends in Pierrefonds and can try and find about schools, clubs, etc. in that part of the island if you like. There is a private school in St Pierre. I think the lycée in Les Avirons is OK. Not sure about maternelle and primary. At collège level you'd want to avoid

It is more racially diverse than mainland France, though there are hidden tensions that you come to notice, particularly because of the sur-rémunération of state workers on an island with galloping unemployment and little hope for job creation in the future.

On the whole, it is a nice place to live, especially for kids, though I found it was small and I was glad to earn enough to travel at least once a year. My parents came once, and only 2 friends came to visit during my time there, but when I moved I had just graduated and my friends hadn't much cash. Then since I was coming home at least once every 18mths they didn't feel the need to spend a fortune coming to visit.

There are big shops, not exactly department stores, but shops like But, M. Bricolage, Décathlon, Carrefour, etc. are all present. Prices for some things are eye-watering, though. There are organic shops and you can get soya milk (maybe even in a supermarket, I suspect). Not sure about rooibos (I have a S. African friend there, she brings hers from home, but she is a little picky). TBH, because of the well-paid fonctionnaires with disposable income, you can find most things if you are prepared to pay the price. And things have got far more globalised and consumerist since I first went there in 1995. Marmite is not available, though, I fear...
Plus you can get lots of things over the Internet, and if you order from a non-French site, you can cheat and put France in yr address and pay European p&p. Clothes are among the hardest things to find, esp in the south, as they are often cheap and synthetic, not the best for the climate.

Dunno about furniture warping, I didn't really notice. I suppose that less robust stuff might last less long than in a drier climate. If you have lots of IKEA stuff, maybe best to sell it and buy out there, esp. if you are getting a relocation budget. I had more experience of ants nesting in electrical goods and knackering them than of anything really warping. Leather does get mouldy, though, and books suffer from the damp.

What I can tell you is that white goods always used to be best bought out there as they were "tropicalisés" and therefore more resistant to the damp, saline air. Think that may well still be the case.

erm, can't think of any more, but feel free to ask...

AuldAlliance · 06/09/2011 19:30

argh, bathtime and MN don't mix. collèges, avoid Bois d'Olives for sure, anywhere else I could find out...

fraktious · 06/09/2011 21:14

We've no idea where we might go. There's the possibility of a 4th year here but it's highly unlikely. It'll probably be somewhere cold and wet :(

Furniture I have no idea but I didn't bring my wooden clarinets in case they warped. Books and papers in general really don't do well and as auld said things can get horribly mouldy.

Soya milk you can Alpro in Carrefour and the Bjorn stuff other places. Rooibus tea I've never seen though I admittedly haven't been looking. Marmite in Mauritius (and Cadbury's too!). Definitely agree about the non-French postage, even taking the exchange rate into account when ordering from the UK it's much cheaper. It might get stopped and taxed at customs though, for some obscure reason.

I actually imported a British nanny Blush but there are plenty of ads for childcare. I have to say I'm really not that impressed with what friends have experienced but if your DDs are older and you don't mind them picking up some Creole it wouldn't be a problem. I just find them a bit, um, relaxed for my taste.

If I had the choice I'd live around St Gilles/Hermitage - easy access north and south, near the nice beaches and the lagoon, nice climate (although v humid in summer). Or I'd live up above St Paul. Unfortunately we get what we're given!

auntierozzi · 07/09/2011 06:52

Hello Fraktious and Auld It's great to hear all your information. I was wondering about Creole. Is it easy to pick uk? Is it recommended to try it? I found a Creole language method at the library here but was a bit overwhelmed.. My girls are nearly 8 and nearly 9 they are in primary school CE2 and CM1. I would be grateful for info. on schools . One thing we are really looking forward to is all the lovely tropical fruit!! Have you done any gardening there? Do they have Jardiland? I will let you know as soon as we have solid news about our move. If DH goes out soon then I might come out for a week or two later. I will let you know. Fraktious let me know at that point if there is anything you would like me to bring you.

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AuldAlliance · 07/09/2011 08:17

I never managed to learn Creole. It's an orally conceived and transmitted language, so if you do want to pick it up, that's really the way to do it. (The "specialists" are eternally divided over how to spell it, which makes learning it from books sth of a minefield.) You can live perfectly well w/o it, though. Your kids will pick some up at school, esp at primary level. I think that is the level where the diglossia is the most tricky.

I can find out about primary schools, and TBH that is one thing that I'd be looking into very, very carefully. I'm not overly optimistic about the quality of teaching on the island in the coming years, and the latest reforms to teacher training and University degree courses are not going to improve matters.
I'll need some geographical indications, though...is E. Salé temporary or are you likely to settle around there? Where will your DH be working? Are you going to be looking for work?

On that topic, it would probably be an excellent idea to go and see the place for yourself if you can. Just as there are numerous microclimates within a few km of one another, so the various towns/ areas are v different, and it's very much a question of personal choice. Unlike Frak, St Gilles/L'Hermitage, for instance, are not places I'd ever fancy living in. I never felt comfortable in the zoreyland atmosphere there - it's quite a bubble, the prices are sky-high because of it, and also TBH I don't find it the most attractive part of the island as regards landscape. And the heat is bad. Pre-kids, we never really went to the lagoon either, preferred Etang Salé, Grand Anse, etc. Boucan was our beach of choice when living in the North, but is not v kid-friendly.

One key factor is climate. A lot depends on how good you are in very hot, very sticky weather. Climate change is being felt in Reunion, and the last few summers have been very, very hot. TBH the weather is one thing I don't miss at all, I found it hard to cope with when working, driving, etc.

DH and I both hated the summer heat and humidity, and didn't want to live down near the shore. Summer is hard for pupils too, and the overhead fans in classrooms don't do much beyond stirring around the heavy, hot air. Unless you are OK with the idea of living in a place with air conditioning, which isn't sth I'd ever consider, you're better off a little higher up, about the ligne des 400 level, or a bit below it. You live and sleep better further inland.

Gardening is great. Around St Leu/St Gilles it's v dry, but elsewhere things grow like crazy. I once lazily chucked a passionfruit into a bougainvillea tree below the kitchen window as it had gone a bit bad, and within weeks a passionfruit vine had grown and it bore fruit that year. I'd have loved to have a lychee tree in my garden, we had friends who did and I have great memories of Christmas parties gorging on fresh lychees. Mangoes, too. Banana trees grow like nobody's business, and when you have a ripe bunch of bananas you have to give them away...
Don't know about Jardiland (you can look on pagesjaunes.fr), but there are several big garden cetres and lots of smaller ones. Orchids are fun to grow, too, and people are very into their gardens. If you are used to nice, soft, green lawns, though, you'll have to adapt, as the trainasse that passes for a lawn there is anything but.

Bizarrely, I had 3 phone calls and a letter from different friends in Reunion yesterday after posting on here! Have been feeling nostalgic, which explains my lengthy posts...

champacs · 16/03/2012 14:02

Hi Arriving rather late in this discussion - AuntieRozzi I imagine you've now arrived and are well installed. I've lived on Réunion for 17 years since 1990.

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