I'm not really an expert, but DH was working there and I went out for a couple of extended visits. In Kosovo I tagged along with a group working with various women's projects and we visited a few places. There was still tension, and alot of sadness, mass graves at the roadsides....
We were treated as saviours everywhere we went though, people would shout out "thank you sister" in the street, which was a bit embarassing really, as I felt I was there under false pretences.