How much effort is glossing?

[MummyGoingItAlone]

So I’m sat in the living room and m “white” woodwork is far from white. To do it, I’d need to do a door frame, skirting, fireplace, banister and railing in the stair case (it’s open)
I know it will need a good sanding to prep, but realistically, how much effort is it to do? Does the paint really smell?
Thanks in advance

I've got some deluxe (?) quick dry, waterproof satin. It's been going really well. If you don't want to sand, you can use primer or undercoat which seems to work quite well. However, I'm finding it's ok to just go over the skirtings with no prep at all. The doors I've done properly.

In my next house, I might try and find a cream wood paint. I think it would wear better.

I would prep it to have a key to make the new coat stick better. Plan it out so you don't do it all one day. Do a little drawing and mark how much is reasonable. Put the radio on as it makes it more bearable especially if a play or something as you are so intent on listening you don't notice.
You could light a candle to get rid of smells and open the window for a bit.
It will be worth it.I did our front door over three days with stain and I am so ppleased with it. I have done the gate and halfway through the shed.

I wouldn't start the banister and railing until you are sure.

If you use a water based paint for woodwork it won’t smell much at all.

What shape are the bannister spindles? If they’re anything other than just plain square in cross section they’re a nightmare to paint (sorry!).

I still think it’ll be worth it as the difference it’ll make will be amazing. Having said that, unless your walls are in really good condition, once you’ve painted the woodwork you may find you’re expanding the project and are painting the walls too as once the woodwork looks good it’ll highlight any imperfections in the walls.

I am a recent convert to water based gloss. Primer first then gloss over. No smell whatsoever and went on much more easily than oil based gloss. Apparently doesn't go yellow either.

We used Zinsser BIN to prime all our old woodwork (a mixture of old gloss and newer satinwood). No sanding required and the water based satinwood we used went on no problems.

You can do this very easily except for the banisters depending on what shape they are, as EarlGreyT said.

If the woodwork is already in good shape, you can avoid sanding. Be honest with yourself about this!

Priming: Zinsser 123 water based should work for this (rather than BIN which is shellac based) - it doesn’t smell as much. They are both excellent products though.

Use a water based eggshell, not an oil based. Dulux do one which can go over anything without priming - I think it’s called Diamond. It’s expensive, but good, and will save you loads of faff.

Remember: never put water based paint over oil/vinyl based
Use a synthetic brush for water based paint (and a natural brush for oil based)

If you’re going to use masking tape, Frog is a good brand and do a low-tack one that won’t damage your paintwork
However I would just paint carefully and keep a clean damp cloth in your other hand to immediately wipe mistakes.

Water based paints don’t smell much and just opening the window should be fine.

Niteflights,
why do you say
'never put water based paint over oil/vinyl based'?
I'm fairly sure I've done this and the world hasn't ended ...

@NiteFlights see above

A five year old could do this, and I've seen similar results from a 35 year old. Getting a good result is not an easy DIY skill. Ignore most of what Niteflights said. You absolutely need to sand or at least create a key for a new layer and you'll get better results with an undercoat/primer . Slinky dog is correct; again as long as you create a key. Unfortunately attempting to show you how to achieve this on this forum is less than useless. It's a manual skill and all I will say is the better prepared the surface to be covered, the better the result. Forgot to mention, you need to pay a fortune for a good brush if you want 'professional' results. But you'll save money on labour obviously.

@SlinkyDogg yes, I wasn’t clear. I meant that you should not do this without proper prep - the water based paint won’t adhere to the oil based paint properly. Obviously once you have prepped it’s fine.

@BurgerOnTheOrientExpress what specifically is wrong with what I said? You absolutely can use an adhesion primer like Zinsser BIN or 123 to prime under eggshell, or a paint like the Dulux Diamond, and not sand at all. That’s partly what those products are designed for. Of course if the surface underneath is poor the result will be poor, but that’s obvious.

OP can do this if she takes her time and uses good products. A decent brush doesn’t cost a fortune surely? What brush would you recommend? (Genuinely interested). Even a Farrow & Ball brush is only £12 (disclaimer: I don’t use F&B brushes).

I’ve done tons of painting over the last few years and while I agree it is a skill, and not immediately easy, and that prep is about 90% of it, it’s also not that hard if you take your time and use good products. The only way to learn is to do it, after all.

Re the Dulux paint, I’ve just checked and I’m wrong - they do recommend a light sand on previously painted wood. I thought I had used it after just cleaning the surface but evidently not. Apologies everyone

Get yourself some Ronseal stay white gloss. Prep your paintwork by cleaning. Once clean wipe the area you are about to paint with a damp cloth.. Keep doing this as you progress.. If you are using a brush just dip the tip in water now and again (the damp on the surface means the paint doesn't become unworkable so quickly). Guaranteed white for 10 years.. Touch dry in 30 mins (I was skeptical but it really is).. Clean up with water. Fab stuff. I would never go back to ordinary gloss.