India's Golden Triangle

[RaraRachael]

Friend and I are both in our early 60s. She's suggesting we do India's Golden Triangle - Delhi, Taj Mahal and Ranthambhore National Park.

Has anyone done it? I'm reasonably fit but I'm worried it will be too hot, busy and smelly. It's really outside my comfort zone as I've only previously been to Europe and Florida.

Are you planning on going with an organised trip or DIY?

I suggest the months from Nov to Feb as the temperature will be more bearable. India is amazing and as long as you are open minded and willing to be out of your comfort zone then you will have a memorable experience. India is like nowhere else on this earth and so unique. The golden triangle has some incredible sights.

Organised trip by our local travel agent.

I say go for it - a trip of a lifetime. You can also pretty easily arrange this trip directly with a travel agent in India. I did that for a trip in Kerela a couple of years ago and worked out cheaper and a local agent was also more knowledgeable and aware of the really good hotels etc. it's really easy to get a quote with whatsapp. We did a private trip in a huge car so you have flexibility and be taken where you want to go.

It won’t be too hot if you go in the winter. It is an assault on the senses however you would need to prepare yourself for that and you will definitely be out of your comfort zone. But at the same time it’s like nowhere else and it’s probably my favourite place I’ve ever been to visit. It’s indescribable really.

I did it as a singles tour. What I would say is the pollution in Delhi is awful and I had a horrible cough that lasted a few days after I'd left. Very interesting country.

Southern India- Kerala, Karnataka- so much nicer, safer, calmer, less busy and amazing food. Also lots to see. Look up Hampi.

@RaraRachaelWhat you are proposing is a well trodden tourist route. However I would never ask a loval travel agent to do it. India is very chaotic and I’d make absolutely sure all arrangements are watertight and do not stay in cheap hotels.

First things first. You need a car with a driver to take you to the hotel. The tour operators like Audley will do this for you. Then, what are you going to do in Delhi? You will find it much easier to have planned pre organised tours. They will collect you and guide you for the day or half day.

You then need transport to Agra for the Taj Mahal and then need transport to it from your hotel. It will be busy. Check out other things you can do. Food tours are popular.

I’m assuming you will visit Jaipur as it’s the closest city to Ranthambhore NP. You really need to see Jaipur or it’s not the golden triangle. There is good shopping, a palace and the Hawa Mahal to visit and you could even stay in a palace! There’s plenty to see here but you need a guide as there’s a degree of hassle.

Lastly Ranthambhore. I’ve been twice and it’s changed SO much! In the 80s we were the only tourists! Had the park to ourselves and saw tigers. Went back in around 2008 and it was manic. They only let so msny vehicles into the park and there’s total chaos at the gate. You need to get in! There’s now a huge array of places to stay and the park is, essentially, overrun. We did see a tiger in 2008 but there were big lorries taking many people round and it was noisy and the vehicles could be heard coming. Not sure I would bother. It’s hugely attractive but has serious flaws for wildlife viewing. Other parks are much better but not easy to get to.

The hotels are your haven from the noise and chaos outside. You don’t need to be fit. You need a certain sense of adventure and I cannot remember smells but you don’t visit tarpaulin city so don’t worry! It’s great weather in our winter.

I have been to southern India but distances are much greater between sights. I’ve also travelled on Indian trains - smells aplenty in the loos. Avoid. Get a driver with a 4x4. Realise the roads are full of animals as well as vehicles and you do need a high quality tour operator to be certain you are safe and taken care of.

The only way to do it is with an organised group eg Riviera, Jules Verne etc. You will be looked after and you will be safe. Do the add on to Shimla if it is offered.

We did it last year via coop travel who use an Indian fixer. All private transfers, private tours and 5/4 star hotels. Was really good and we could have added or changed the itinerary if you have specific places you want to visit (we booked the suggested itinerary). We upgraded to direct flights which even if there wasn’t issues in the Middle East saves a lot of hassle.

now for the downsides, it’s hot, dusty and very busy on the streets, people don’t do personal space! But once your brain adjusts to the sheer quantity of people, it’s actually easier than many places to get about, we chose b&b so we could eat in local restaurants/flexibility which was definitely the best part in many ways, I ate the best food on holiday in my life despite eating in small local restaurants and fairly cheaply at that.

if you do go ahead one top tip is to get a local eSIM for your phone because uberTUT was really useful for the evening (or regular uber if you’re not brave enough) good for maps too.

And contrary to some people here I would really advise having an Indian fixer who really knows the market and hires local tour guides in each city (you keep your driver for the duration) because they really know each location, but you also get to meet real people - I’ve heard of people whose tour guide flew in with them from Britain and just read from a script, I could download info on Wikipedia myself!

It's an organised trip sold by our local travel agent with all transfers and meals taken care of staying in 4 and 5 star hotels. I wouldn't be confident organising anything myself.

I would read up a bit on the pollution in Delhi before you commit. It’s pretty bad in winter. But it is an incredible trip.

Agra has a lot of pollution too. It’s India. Never heard it called a fixer. Just a local good agent who is contracted by the uk company to deliver the holiday!

Some hotels are way better than others. Don’t just trust stars. Read up on the finer points. Never heard of guides flying in. Never had that.

What tour company is it? This makes a difference. We much prefer not using a travel agent. We speak to the person who is organising the itinerary and our experiences so they know what we want and what we don’t want. We are going to several national parks next Feb and we do want input into where, what and when.

Agra itself I wouldn’t stay in, apart from the Taj Mahal there isn’t really anything there and the hotel offerings weren’t great, you can see the Taj Mahal as a day trip from Delhi. You need to include Jaipur in your itinerary though! It’s amazing with lots of beautiful architecture and gorgeous rooftop hotels ❤️

Also if I’m honest it will definitely be hot, busy and out of your comfort zone 😅

But just go to embrace the chaos, India is a complete assault on the senses but that’s what makes it so unique. Mix it in with nice calm hotels and taxis instead of public transport if you’re worried.

@LoveHearts69 Delhi won’t be that hot in, say, January. It’s pretty decent weather. Bigger issue can be fog and flight delays. Out at Jaipur it can get quite chilly at night. It’s chaotic but not horribly hot in winter.

Thanks for all the information. I've had a good think but decided it's just too far outwith my comfort zone, so I've told my friend I won't be going.

I'll just stick to Europe in future 😃

DH and I did it last year fully organised with a private driver taking us from Delhi - Agra - Ranthambore - Jaipur. We then took a train to Chandigarh and Shimla.

It is, as another poster has said an absolute assault on the senses. On the one hand, the owner of the Taj Mahal and seeing tigers, we were lucky and saw 7 but friends who did the same trip a year earlier didn’t see any. On the flip side, the poverty is horrendous. Round the corner from our beautiful 5* air conditioned hotel people were living on the roadside with barely a plastic bag as a roof. Litter is piled high with cows and people living on it.

You also need to be extremely careful with water and food. We both had the dreaded Delhi belly and I was ill with gastroenteritis for a couple of weeks after returning home despite only bottle water, no ice, salads, mouth closed in the shower etc.

Having said all that, I’m glad we went, just wouldn’t go back, South East Asia on the other hand was fabulous if you can persuade your friend to go there instead!

About 10 years ago my friend and I did this trip

Grand Journey from India's Golden Triangle to Shimla | Riviera Travel

It was fantastic!

We were 60 - the age range of the group was 50-70

@RaraRachael What a shame! Some of the most amazing things to see are there. Other cultures are worth the effort but you need to accept it’s not all clean and shiny everywhere. Hope your friend finds someone more like her to travel with.

That will be a piece of piss then. You get santised handheld India that way

@Thechaseison71 some of us don't feel comfortable unless we're on an organised trip. Not everyone is the same.

And did I say otherwise?

I went on a Great Railway Journey through India a few years ago, would that be good for you? We slept on a train then got off each day to visit the sights. It was really well organised, I loved it. Went at Easter, it was only really hot on one day.