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Japan Planning Thread Part 2

1000 replies

Takoneko · 11/04/2025 12:59

This is a thread for anyone planning a trip to Japan. All budgets and styles of trip are welcome.

I got so much out of the first thread and would love to be able to continue the conversation with everyone who has been so helpful.

I fly tomorrow morning!

First Thread

Japan planning thread | Mumsnet

I’ve just booked the hotels for my third trip to Japan next year and about to start planning the itinerary in earnest. Japan threads pop up here qui...

https://www.mumsnet.com/talk/holidays/5152514-japan-planning-thread

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48
Fuckingfuckssake · 12/01/2026 12:50

@Specialnameforanoutingthreada tour would be out of budget, but thank you for the suggestion. @Takonekothat’s so helpful thank you, I’m worried it might be a bit overwhelming to be there that long? Could you suggest an area to base ourselves in that might not be too busy but has good transport links? Is that even a thing??

Japlan · 12/01/2026 13:00

I've booked Teamlab planets for our 2nd day so all starting to feel real now. I had hoped to fit in a couple of days in Hakone or similar but the Itinerary is getting a bit squashed with the excessively long wishlist!! Do you think it would be possible to do this or somewhere similar in a day whilst we are on route from Tokyo to Osaka? Would we still take the Shinkansen to each but get 2 seperate tickets for each leg of the journey? Next step is to refine the wishlist down and establish all of our must sees rather than have the giant overwhelming list we currently have.

Sparklinggreen · 12/01/2026 18:17

Japlan · 12/01/2026 13:00

I've booked Teamlab planets for our 2nd day so all starting to feel real now. I had hoped to fit in a couple of days in Hakone or similar but the Itinerary is getting a bit squashed with the excessively long wishlist!! Do you think it would be possible to do this or somewhere similar in a day whilst we are on route from Tokyo to Osaka? Would we still take the Shinkansen to each but get 2 seperate tickets for each leg of the journey? Next step is to refine the wishlist down and establish all of our must sees rather than have the giant overwhelming list we currently have.

Teamlab planets is amazing!

If I remember Hakone is 3 hours train from Osaka and just over an hour from Tokyo - so think it’s more of a day trip from Tokyo

I think a good idea to whittle your list or your must sees and organise as best you can

Takoneko · 12/01/2026 18:28

@Fuckingfuckssake For me, if you’re looking for somewhere fairly calm and quiet with good transport links, then the area around Tokyo station and Ginza is great. It has a reputation for being upscale, but the hotels are generally pretty well priced as it’s a less touristed area and more of a business district.

We stayed at the Daiwa Roynet Kyobashi Premier on our last trip. We could walk to a number of different train and metro stations from there, which makes transport easier as you can minimise having to do transfers in big, complex stations. Theres an entrance to Tokyo station about 3 mins walk from thew hotel, which is good for day trips.

We could walk into Ginza easily and find places to eat, but the area immediately around the hotel is pretty quiet. There’s a few hotels there and they tend to be pretty good value.

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Actnaturally · 12/01/2026 21:06

Specialnameforanoutingthread · 11/01/2026 21:13

@Actnaturally DH and I have done that crossing, and have fond memories. Well, actually we went from Fukuoka to Busan on the now defunct catamaran ferry and returned Busan to Osaka on the Panstar Dream, but I hope I can help. We travelled in Sept '23 and it looks like the ship was replaced by Panstar Miracle early in 2025, so my info may well be out of date. There is definitely a lack of info about this journey on the internet, when we went I could I only find one blogger's account.

As far as I remember it sells itself as a bit of a 'mini cruise' but we felt the Dream was more of a 'nice ferry' than a cruise ship, but the morning of our second day was spent travelling up the Seto Inland Sea under a warm, clear, blue sky which was lovely. It looks like the Miracle is modern and much more 'cruise like' as the Dream only had a buffet for dinner and breakfast, a tiny shop, and the onsen. I'll add a photo of our room, and we had shared bathrooms (for alternatives, the price catapulted and, frankly, we're too tight!). I would say it's much more interesting than flying...

I have just had a look back through my booking info and we booked through Direct Ferries so I probably struggled with the Panstar website. I have also just tried a dummy booking and it allows you to enter the children's ages but it does look like they are classed as adults. If you select a 4 person cabin they must be really unlikely to split your booking, so I am sure you will be fine with you all four together in one cabin. Did you find the cabin info on the fares and cabin info Panstar pages?

I can't help you with departures from Osaka as obviously we arrived into there. However, we have arrived into Busan port from our Fukuoka catamaran. I don't remember much so I think they must have been quite swift, and it's more like an airport than the ferry terminal at Poole!

Will you have eSims? If not you will need to get them at the port terminal in Busan before you leave the building and set off. We once made the mistake of not picking a sim up on arrival and it was a wild goose chase taking 3 days (I think) before we got the right info and right directions in Seoul to get one, so this is a STRONG recommendation even if you are at the back of a queue. eSims are SO much better, yay for a new phone! On our last visit we flew to Tokyo for a few days and from there flew on to Seoul for a week (DS lives there) so I bought an eSIm which covered both countries - easy peasy... DH just hotspots off me.

When you arrive in Korea you should also pick up T-Money cards from a convenience store (CU/GS25 etc), and you will need to load them as they come empty. I cant remember if you can pay by card in the convenience stores so I'll ask DH. We were there in Dec and I think the machine in the subway only took cash, but again I will check to see if DH can remember.

You can walk on a covered, high level walkway from the port to the train station in Busan. The bus station is about an hour north on the tube and is not very convenient.

Are you staying in Busan or heading straight to Seoul? When do you go?

Edited

This is such incredible information, thank you so much. You’re right, I spent ages googling but mostly got scant and contradictory information from Reddit!

I’d been thinking of getting 2 x 2 berth private rooms, but in your photo the rooms looks great!

We had been thinking ferry from Fukuoka to Busan, but we do want to get straight to Seoul and the ferry timings don’t really work for that. They ‘land’ at 6.30pm ish, and I don’t think we’d get to our hotel in Seoul till well after midnight. As we’re just tagging a couple of days in Seoul before heading home, we don’t really want a really late arrival. The catamaran would have been good, but we did see that it was cancelled last year. So we started to look at the Osaka ferry, and it looks like an incredible way of seeing some of the country. We like that we can watch Japan as we sail by, get a nights sleep and arrive in Busan in the morning.

Thank you for the advice on sims and T money cards. We hadn’t thought about that at all yet. We’re going at the end of March, so we are leaving it a bit later than I’d like to get all the details planned! We’ve so far got flights to Tokyo and then out of Seoul. Hoping to also have ferry tickets this week, so we can start looking at accomodation needs!

Actnaturally · 13/01/2026 09:01

@Specialnameforanoutingthread - I realise this is a Japan planning thread, but given your DS lives there, I was hoping I could ask you a Seoul question!

We’re arriving in Busan by ferry, as I said, the. Hoping to book bullet train to Seoul the same day and arrive for dinner 🤞 . We’re going to have 2 full days in Seoul, flying home on the morning of the 3rd day. Do you happen to know an area in Seoul that has good links to the airport that would be good for a hotel? Or even better, hotel recommendations? We’ve never been to this part of the world at all, and this is the trip of a lifetime for us, but we’ve been paralysed with decisions!

Fuckingfuckssake · 13/01/2026 22:28

Thanks again @Takonekothats just the kind of info we needed. I’ve just found return flights for 2 adults and 1 teen for £2050, that’s pretty good yes?

Specialnameforanoutingthread · 14/01/2026 12:54

@Actnaturally I have had a quick look for you re hotels in Seoul but I will need to take a bit more time and come back to you - week days seems too short to get much done...

We now find an airport bus is super easy as there is a route that stops outside 'our' hotel near Gangnam (where DS lives). You literally wait at a bus stop, put the bags on the bus, sit back in a big and comfy chair and get dropped at the front door of the terminal. The subway is OK but not as easy as the bus, we are now converts as the subway always seems to need a change, and as in Japan the stations are big and a change is often a reasonable walk.

Top tip for both countries - check which subway exit you need to save yourself an unnecessary backtracking walk.

So in general, the area to the NE of Seoul station should be good, I'll look to see the exact routes but airport buses 6001 and 6015 seems to go to that area. On our first visit DS advised us to stay in the area as its a good location and he was right, as it offers easy access to Meyongdong, Cheonggycheon stream and Gwangjang market, Gyeongbukgong palace, Insadong and Jogyesa Temple and Bukchon Hanok Village. You also have the subways handy for the National War Memorial of Korea (an impressive indoor and outdoor collection and a War museum really rather than 'just' a memorial), and the beautifully curated National Museum of Korea (both free), Hongdae (where i feel old!) Gangnam and Jamsil and also trendy Seongsu.

I've added a map with the general area marked but I'll come back to you later with a more refined idea if you don't make choices in the meanwhile.

Do you have an idea of what do sort of thing do you want to see and do? Do you want food recommendations for dinner (love the food 😋)?

Japan Planning Thread Part 2
Actnaturally · 14/01/2026 14:11

Specialnameforanoutingthread · 14/01/2026 12:54

@Actnaturally I have had a quick look for you re hotels in Seoul but I will need to take a bit more time and come back to you - week days seems too short to get much done...

We now find an airport bus is super easy as there is a route that stops outside 'our' hotel near Gangnam (where DS lives). You literally wait at a bus stop, put the bags on the bus, sit back in a big and comfy chair and get dropped at the front door of the terminal. The subway is OK but not as easy as the bus, we are now converts as the subway always seems to need a change, and as in Japan the stations are big and a change is often a reasonable walk.

Top tip for both countries - check which subway exit you need to save yourself an unnecessary backtracking walk.

So in general, the area to the NE of Seoul station should be good, I'll look to see the exact routes but airport buses 6001 and 6015 seems to go to that area. On our first visit DS advised us to stay in the area as its a good location and he was right, as it offers easy access to Meyongdong, Cheonggycheon stream and Gwangjang market, Gyeongbukgong palace, Insadong and Jogyesa Temple and Bukchon Hanok Village. You also have the subways handy for the National War Memorial of Korea (an impressive indoor and outdoor collection and a War museum really rather than 'just' a memorial), and the beautifully curated National Museum of Korea (both free), Hongdae (where i feel old!) Gangnam and Jamsil and also trendy Seongsu.

I've added a map with the general area marked but I'll come back to you later with a more refined idea if you don't make choices in the meanwhile.

Do you have an idea of what do sort of thing do you want to see and do? Do you want food recommendations for dinner (love the food 😋)?

Edited

Ah that’s amazing. Thanks for all this info. We’re really keen to get Korean food. It’s part of the reason we’re having a few days there (we were originally looking at flight back out of Tokyo and spotted lots had layovers in Seoul, so we tried looking at longer layovers just to get dinner there, and then it turned into 3 nights as we got more and more interested and realised how exciting it would be to travel there by boat/train).

Food is probably our main pull, so any restaurant recommendations would be greatly appreciated. The teens also want to do some skincare shopping while we’re there. Other than that, we’re just hoping to soak it up!

Takoneko · 14/01/2026 18:25

Fuckingfuckssake · 13/01/2026 22:28

Thanks again @Takonekothats just the kind of info we needed. I’ve just found return flights for 2 adults and 1 teen for £2050, that’s pretty good yes?

That sounds very reasonable to me. Flights can be very expensive.

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Actnaturally · 15/01/2026 14:38

For anyone who might be interested in the Ōsaka/Busan ferry - I emailed customer services and got an answer from them about the cabins.

“Greetings from PanStar Cruise, where we strive to deliver your dreams with the utmost speed and elegance. Thank you for your interest in PanStar Cruise. For a 4-person cabin, if your group consists of three or more passengers, you can stay together in the same cabin regardless of gender. Only when there are two or fewer passengers will the cabin be assigned based on gender separation. So please don’t worry. Wishing you a wonderful day filled with the excitement and joy of planning your trip. Thank you.”

So I’ve now got that booked! Can’t wait to sit on the deck watching Japan sail past.

Massive thanks to @Specialnameforanoutingthread for the advice 💐

LittleLlama · 16/01/2026 10:48

My flights by China Eastern Airlines for March have just been cancelled (email sent this morning). Hope nobody else has been impacted.

Takoneko · 16/01/2026 11:31

LittleLlama · 16/01/2026 10:48

My flights by China Eastern Airlines for March have just been cancelled (email sent this morning). Hope nobody else has been impacted.

Oh no! That sounds incredibly stressful. Is that linked to the diplomatic trouble between China and Japan?

I hope you’re able to get an alternative.

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LittleLlama · 16/01/2026 11:38

Not sure of the reason. The email just said “It has been cancelled due to the reason of airlines”?? I am sure we will be able to get an alternate (maybe not via China). Refund takes 12-15 days…

Takoneko · 16/01/2026 12:44

@LittleLlama After a bit of googling apparently 40% of China-Japan flight have been cancelled, with more cancellations possible. This seems to be a knock on impact of the Chinese government telling their citizens not to travel to Japan for tourism.

Based on that, it’s probably safer to avoid flights through China.

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Jellyslothbridge · 16/01/2026 19:45

Sorry to hear about your flights being cancelled @LittleLlama We have just bought direct flights with virgin to seoul - new route starting in March so the prices seem pretty good. We will likely take the ferry to Japan having been last year and loved it, so thanks for the info shared here about both Japan and South Korea!

meikyo · 17/01/2026 10:03

Hi, joining in! I've never been to Japan and just booked tickets at 6am this morning on a presale for a gig by one of my favourite bands for Tokyo in May! Plan is for about an 8 night trip all in (plus travel from/to the UK either side) just DH and me. Very excited. Now to book flights and hotel. Gig is in the Shibuya area midweek. There's another band we might like to see the weekend before. Any recommendations for first time visitors welcome!

SorrengailFables · 17/01/2026 22:28

having thought we had nailed down an itinerary we have now changed it up but pretty certain we are sticking to this one 😂
Tokyo 3 nights
Kyoto 4 nighhts
Kanazawa 3 nights
Hakuba 3 nights
Tokyo 1 night for early morning flight out…

Has anyone been to Hakuba in the summer? I think we are going to stop off there for some hiking if anyone can recommend a nice place to stay with a family onsen…? And any hike suggestions???

Takoneko · 18/01/2026 09:31

@SorrengailFables That looks like a great itinerary. Hakuba looks lovely in summer. We haven’t been yet, but Nagano prefecture looks like it has so much breathtaking scenery.

Make sure to carry bear bells if you’re going to be hiking in that area (or tbh most rural areas) in the summer. You’re highly unlikely to have trouble with bears but bear attacks have been on the rise and the best way to avoid trouble is to make sure they hear you coming so you don’t startle one.

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SorrengailFables · 18/01/2026 11:51

@Takoneko yes I’ve been reading about the bears! 3 noisy children should also help…we’ve hiked back-country in Canada so will dig the bells out….
I’m finding it a little bit trickier to find detailed information on hiking in the area and wish I had another week! We debated cutting Kyoto to have more time in the alps but realised we will be in Kyoto for the Gion Matsuri festival so going to brave the crowds!

Actnaturally · 24/01/2026 10:38

Anyone who has done the ferry Osaka to Busan (or I guess any ferry Japan to Busan) - can you remember what time is involved in going through customs? We’re planning our onward train to Seoul and don’t know how much time to leave between arrival at the ferry (10am) and train departure.

@Specialnameforanoutingthread i know you’ve done the journey but I think you said you’d only done it Korea to Japan? (And we’d also be really happy to have any Seoul food recommendations - fancy or street! 🙏)

paintedwolf · 24/01/2026 11:03

Going to Tokyo, Hiroshima and Kyoto next week (eek) and very grateful for these 2 threads. We are pinning down the itineraries and have a question for those that stayed in Kyoto. We have 4 nights there and there seems loads to see, so do we NEED to go to Nara as well - not fussed about feeding deer (I believe there are some on Miyajima where we are planning on going)and seeing a big park in February or have I missed something? Thanks.

Takoneko · 24/01/2026 11:37

@paintedwolf I don’t believe that there’s any such thing as a must see. What’s unmissable varies so much from person to person.

Nobody needs to do Nara if it doesn’t appeal. Todaiji temple is pretty spectacular but if there’s something that appeals to you more then you should do that instead. I loved Nara, but I’m a sucker for an animal encounter.

I have no doubt at all that you will find plenty of things to fill 4 days in and around Kyoto. If you aren’t bothered about the deer, but fancy a really spectacular temple away from the crowding of the central Kyoto ones then Byodo-in is a good shout. Uji is closer than Nara (15 mins on the kintetsu line) and far less busy. Byodo-in is the temple that features on the ¥10 coin.

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paintedwolf · 24/01/2026 11:53

Thanks as ever @Takoneko

Specialnameforanoutingthread · 24/01/2026 14:00

@Actnaturally sorr for radio silence - its been a really busy couple of weeks.

I did intend to look into the bus routes more for you but haven't found the time. I still think route 6001 and 6015 are good for the Myeongdong area if you are interested. Here's a link to the company. It gives you a idea of the stops but doesnt really show you the route on a map 🙄.

I looked back at my photos of arriving into Busan port. I have a photo of us with the catamaran in the background at 1.03pm and another of inside the terminal building having done customs and immigration at 1.45pm. I don't remember what time the catamaran docked as we were slow to get off so you might have to allow some disembarkation time. I remember the walk being about 15mins on the overhead walkway. I hope this give you a reasonable idea of when to book the train.

I have photos of the sim card shop in the terminal building at Busan if you need them - let me know.

I didn't speak to DS last weekend but I'll get him to make some suggestions for BBQ and fried chicken, dakgalbi and pancake places north of the river. Gwangjang market is interesting for 'street food' but has had a bad rap recently for ripping of tourists. I still think it's fun perching on the benches and eating with the locals. My favourite hoettock place is in Namdaemun market. I'll gather a set of pins together or something an dsend them over to you. I think you dont go until March though?

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