@Takoneko we got home yesterday. The trip was absolutely brilliant! Thank you and everyone else on this thread for the excellent tips and advice.
Highlights were our day trips to Kamakura/Enoshina,
Nara/Uji, Miyajima/Iwakuni, Ominichi and Rabbit Island (Onishima). We loved Himiji castle and the adjacent gardens. We did that as a half day trip from Okayama.
We weren’t keen on Kyoto - lots of lovely places to see but it’s saturated with tourists. The Gion area was particularly busy. Maruyama Park was lovely though, and we really liked Fushimi Inari - went at 5pm and walked up to the top. The sunset over Kyoto was a bonus on the way up.
Tips from me would include:
It gets dark early so plan your activities accordingly. If you’re energetic, it could be possible to visit Nara, Uji and finally Fushimi Inari in the same (long) day, as they’re all on the Nara train line. We were surprised how easy it was to combine two or more places in the same day. We were up early though.
Lots of places (shops, cafes, museums) don’t open until 10am. We had hotel breakfasts at most of our accommodation, but in Hiroshima we struggled to find somewhere decent to eat an early breakfast.
Our hotels provided lots of different skincare products, but only one of them had body lotion. The skincare was always in tiny sachets btw. We loved the foaming soap in all our hotels. Genius invention!
The hotel pillows are hard. They provide a pair - one hard, and the second one rock hard. I got used to them though.
We had a stinker of a trip home. We missed our connecting flight at Hong Kong because our flight from Osaka was delayed. Cathay put us on an alternative flight to Zurich, and from there we flew to Munich and finally to Heathrow. In the end we got home about 8 hours later than expected, but we coped well because we’d spent 2 weeks navigating public transport and were confident travellers by that point.
I’m still processing it all, but can go into more detail if anyone is interested. I definitely want to return next year!