Well I am back from my first trip to Japan. OMG. It's fantastic!!
We did so much I am slightly overwhelmed at the prospect of reporting it all, but thought I would put some recommendations on for others as we stayed and ate in some incredible places!
Tokyo, we stayed at Hotel Groove in Shinjuku which was incredible, views to die for, its own projector and screen (we watched Kill Bill on it one night after going to Gonpachi, which was fun!) If you can stretch to it it's really worth it
Nakano is a fantastic area to go out in the evening, like Golden Gai but much bigger and not touristy, 5 mins from Shinjuki on the Chuo Line. We ate in several great places and went to some crazy standing bars and met all sorts of people! The mexican restaurant does superb cocktails and there is a bao bun place which does street food, steam everywhere, the best I've ever had!
Team Labs Borderless is really worth visiting, mindblowing (and much better than Planets apparently, my dd had been) [Official] teamLab Borderless TOKYO, Azabudai Hills
We went for amazing lunchtime Omakase, it's about half the price at lunch time if you are after that sort of thing (top tip from dd!)
Hakone - we absolutely loved Hakone! We stayed on the lake in a fab hotel with onsens (and had a private one too so we could all do together, that was v cheap and great) It seems quite expensive but you get breakfast and dinner included (buffet which is not my favourite but was fine in fact) and all booze at dinner which we all took advantage of! Everyone swans around in fancy robes, it's fun.
箱根・芦ノ湖 はなをり[公式・最安]
There is so much to do there, and Fuji made an appearance! We walked a lot and got the various cable cars up to see the hot springs and then went over into some of the villages higher up on the Hakone side, it's all so quaint and beautiful. We only found out about the Hakone pass when we were leaving, you can get for 1 or 2 days to include all trains/cable cars/museums/gardens etc, would be worth it I think
Osaka was brilliant, thank you to whoever recommended the Henn na Hotel Osaka Shinsaibashi with the dinosaur robot receptionists, it was a great location and super clean and comfortable. The palace and gardens were great and also there is a really fun area called Shinsekai which is really worth a visit, a retro-futuristic area modelled on Coney Island
Visit Shinsekai: Osaka’s retro futuristic old town
We also had incredible Okonomiyaki in Nippombashi, highly recommened!
MOEGI, Nippombashi - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number - Tripadvisor
Kyoto - we only went for the day, it was horribly crowded in places but you could find plenty of uncrowded places too. It was not my favourite but I was glad we went.
Hiroshima - stayed in a great apartment in a nice quiet area by the Peace park, it was incredibly comfortable, lots of space and it had a washing machine and the most superb drying room, basically the bath/shower room with a heater in the ceiling and racks you could hang clothes on and go out and leave them to dry. We did all our washing there! The staff were incredibly friendly too
5 minutes walk from Peace Memorial Park [Official] in front of Grand Base Hiroshima Peace Park
Probably a 15-20 minute walk to the busier area on the other side of the Peace Park. Obviously the Peace Memorial park and exhibition were incredible, so moving.
Onomichi - This was my favourite place I think, we went to do the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, we got a stunning day and cycled across amazing bridges through very varied islands, some quite industrial areas, lots of agriculture and stunning beaches and scenery throughout.
A Cyclist's Guide to the Shimanami Kaido - Things to Do - Japan Travel
We rented e-bikes and cycled 35km and then got a ferry with cycle storage back. The town itself is gorgeous, amazing food (one of the best bakeries I've been to ever!) and very cheap. We stayed in a really beautiful traditional house up the hill with views to die for.
I cannot wait to go back, the food, the people, the total weirdness and the amazing loos!!