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Herculaneum via Naples and Rome. How difficult/easy would it be for a solo traveller!

58 replies

hastalava · 04/07/2024 12:31

Hi, I have always wanted to do this trip but no one I know is remotely interested. So I am hoping/thinking of doing it myself in October when hopefully it will be a bit quieter.

My half baked plan is to fly to Naples and see the archaeological museum, which has a lot of the Pompeii stuff. I am not hugely interested in seeing Pompeii itself (If I have time I will) but I do want to see Herculaneum. A couple of nights in Naples and take the train to the sites via the Circumvesuviana train. Well that's the plan! I've heard that Naples can be very "edgy", but I'm hoping if I stay in a good hotel in a "naice" area that I'll be alright!

Then take the train from Naples to Rome and spend a few days there. I think that's the easy bit, although you never know, do you? Fly back from Rome. Will take in Ostia Antica while there too.

I've done a few solo trips but mostly in France and Spain and while often confused and hot and bothered, I did it! So if anyone has done a similar trip (without car) I'd love to hear your story. Thanks.

OP posts:
Quisisana · 04/07/2024 21:35

I presume (rightly or wrongly) that cards are accepted everywhere now, maybe with the exception of street traders and the like?
Mostly yes. Although some places don't really like you using a card for small amounts e.g. a coffee - and the coffee in Naples is amazing, as is the pizza.

BitOutOfPractice · 04/07/2024 21:40

Naples is indeed edgy. I did it with a teenage daughter a few years ago and it’s certainly rather rough round the edges. (The unabashed ogling of my 15yo dd was very unpleasant for example).

having said that, it’s an amazing place. soooo much history. The Amalfi coastline is glorious, Sorrento itself, meh. It’s very bland, touristy, crowded. Not my favourite Italian spot by a long chalk.

hastalava · 04/07/2024 21:42

Quisisana · 04/07/2024 21:35

I presume (rightly or wrongly) that cards are accepted everywhere now, maybe with the exception of street traders and the like?
Mostly yes. Although some places don't really like you using a card for small amounts e.g. a coffee - and the coffee in Naples is amazing, as is the pizza.

Looking forward to the coffee, it's my go to as I don't drink alcohol. No cappuccino after 11am though! From previous trips to (Northern) Italy I recall that there is a lovely (non alcohol) drink called Chinotto. I'm looking forward to having that, since I've never seen it for sale here or anywhere else! It's the little things!

OP posts:
QueenOfWeeds · 04/07/2024 22:24

The inter-city trains in Italy are pretty good, and you can book in advance on the trenitalia site (set it to English). From memory you get your tickets as e-tickets but I think you still have to validate them? I can’t remember, sorry. Worth checking the upgrade prices - often it isn’t much more, but it is a bit quieter/calmer.

CheeseSandwichRiskAssessment · 04/07/2024 22:45

You definitely need some cash for Naples. In general the city felt like going back in time at least ten years (which I liked).

To validate your tickets like to Rome you do it directly on the trenitalia app, it's very convenient.

For the special Pompeii train you buy tickets at the station or nearby tobacco shop.

Wigeon · 05/07/2024 06:21

Oh you can definitely find a stone to sit down on - I can't remember if it was Pompeii or Herculaneum where we found a quite nice spot under some trees to eat our picnic half way round.

We did a food tour which was really good, the guide had exceptionally good English: www.tripadvisor.co.uk/AttractionProductReview-g187785-d11992608-Naples_Walking_and_Sightseeing_Tour_With_Local_Expert-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Ca.html www.tripadvisor.co.uk/AttractionProductReview-g187785-d11992608-Naples_Walking_and_Sightseeing_Tour_With_Local_Expert-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Ca.html]]]]

Attaching a map of the area we stayed - neighbourhood felt fine, loads of restaurants, shops etc nearby but street itself was quiet. Only thing was that it was a bit of a walk to the nearest metro, but not too bad.

Herculaneum via Naples and Rome. How difficult/easy would it be for a solo traveller!
Wigeon · 05/07/2024 06:24

And we had amazing pizza here: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187785-d8428259-Reviews-Pizzeria_Pavia-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html - really basic restaurant but even by Naples standards the pizza was incredible.

Quisisana · 05/07/2024 06:36

hastalava · 04/07/2024 21:42

Looking forward to the coffee, it's my go to as I don't drink alcohol. No cappuccino after 11am though! From previous trips to (Northern) Italy I recall that there is a lovely (non alcohol) drink called Chinotto. I'm looking forward to having that, since I've never seen it for sale here or anywhere else! It's the little things!

I love chinotto! (I live in Northern Italy). So much nicer than coca cola.

TheCourtierTapsHisFan · 05/07/2024 06:36

We’ve just returned from visiting Herculaneum and Pompeii. As PPs have said I would definitely recommend seeing Pompeii too. I was completely blown away by the vastness of the site. Standing in the Forum looking up towards Vesuvius will be an unforgettable moment for me.

Quisisana · 05/07/2024 06:37

QueenOfWeeds · 04/07/2024 22:24

The inter-city trains in Italy are pretty good, and you can book in advance on the trenitalia site (set it to English). From memory you get your tickets as e-tickets but I think you still have to validate them? I can’t remember, sorry. Worth checking the upgrade prices - often it isn’t much more, but it is a bit quieter/calmer.

Yes, you now have to validate (some?) e-tickets on the app before leaving the station (or stamp paper tickets in the machines).

Sgtmajormummy · 05/07/2024 06:45

Talking about Rome.
Check every place you want to visit in advance because most of them will be advance booking and fill up quickly. We missed Villa Borghese the last time so now it’s on my bucket list.
Rome is definitely a no-sit zone and the police will chase you away.
I’d say Italy is 60/40 card to cash nowadays. Leave a small cash tip at restaurants but not in stand-up bars.

CheeseSandwichRiskAssessment · 05/07/2024 07:08

@Sgtmajormummy good point, I missed out on the underground colleseum tour which is apparently quite good.

owenjonescleanerreturns · 05/07/2024 08:47

definitely don't miss Pompeii. Another nice excursion is to Amalfi, and that's another good reason for staying in Naples, the boat day trips run from the harbour. Cards are now widely accepted as well, yes.

hastalava · 05/07/2024 10:19

Thanks again everyone. As you can imagine I've saved this thread for reference, the information is so helpful, and believe it or not, has given me a confidence boost too, I think I really CAN do this on my own now!

I have just read though, that next year is Jubilee or Holy Year in Rome, and the city is preparing for it right now, so a lot of the sites are either closing or are being refurbished for the occasion. I can't see much about the disruption online, but I'll keep an eye on things. That could scupper the Rome leg for sure, but it mightn't be as bad as I think.

OP posts:
yesmen · 07/07/2024 04:04

Even though I see the period of history you are interested in the Cristo Velato by G. Sanmartino is worth seeing if you can.

The opera house is stunning inside and is of significant historical value.

Cameos are made in Naples and you can actually go and watch them carve.

Lucky you!

NDmumoftwo · 07/07/2024 04:39

If you're in your own stay near piazza del plebiscito. It's vibrant, safe and near to transport. Down by the castel del ouvo is a nicer area but a bit further from the metro. Herculaneum a much better call than Pompeii.

Musiclover234 · 07/07/2024 05:04

Allthegoodnamesarechosen · 04/07/2024 12:43

I would stay in Sorrento rather than Naples. You can get the train to Herculaneum and Naples from Sorrento.

I went years ago and stayed in Sorrento. Sorrento was a great base and the trains were easy to use. We went to Herculaneum, pompeii and Naples day trips from there al by train. Also did capri and the amalfi coast too.

Wasn’t really taken by Naples it didn’t have a great feel ( to me) which was a shame as i love a good city but was only there a day and it was over ten years ago! Loved Rome but went there separately.

Sgtmajormummy · 07/07/2024 08:52

DH & DD are staying here
https://www.bbportanova.it/
for a week, car free, at the end of August. I’ll be happily dog sitting at home while they see all the sights. They’re going to the Regia di Caserta (lots and lots of walking) by train as well as Pompeii. I’ll you know how they get on.

A bed & breakfast in the heart of Naples

B&B Portanova offers rooms in the heart of Naples' historic center

https://www.bbportanova.it

CheeseSandwichRiskAssessment · 07/07/2024 09:03

@Sgtmajormummy at Regia di Ceserta you can rent bikes to explore the grounds, it was great whizzing through the stately gardens

GCAcademic · 07/07/2024 09:12

I've done this trip solo. I stayed in Sorrento - not a particularly exciting place but very easy to get around from there, both to Pompeii and Herculaneum and to the Amalfi coast, with very good train and ferry links. I took the ferry to Naples for the day, and visited the archaelogical musuem and did a food tour. I liked Naples, but am not sure I'd want to stay there for any length of time.

Bewareofthisonetoo · 07/07/2024 09:13

Did it a few years ago alone with children -was easy -and much easier if you are on your own!

Spirallingdownwards · 07/07/2024 09:20

Naples is fine and gets a bad rap. It's like any big city really and no worse than say Barcelona. Just take usual care of yourself and possessions in a non flashy way.

The train systems (and buses) are so efficient and cheap as heavily subsidised by the government. If you have a chance get the ferry to Ischia and or Procida too!

TraitForTravel · 07/07/2024 09:22

I am doing this journey solo right now! The train and bus connections are really good and I haven't taken a single taxi or Uber since being here. Naples airport to the station you can go by airport bus.

Definitely definitely stay in Sorrento and not Naples. I left my Naples hotel and moved to Sorrento as I didn't feel safe. Sorrento is amazing and perfect for solo travellers. Not that hilly (well as hilly as London I guess). There are lifts to go down to the beaches and port.

Mortima · 07/07/2024 09:25

We did Naples and Sorrento a couple of years ago, but as a couple - I think it would have been fine as a solo traveller though.
Enjoyed Naples, think it gets a bad rep - it is a bit 'edgy' and hectic, but if you know that beforehand and have your wits about you should be fine. Loads to do, the Archaeological museum is great.

As PP have said, the area around the main train station is quite rough so don't stay there; we jumped into a taxi from the main train station to our accommodation and definitely got ripped off, so definitely pre-book a private transfer if you can.

I liked Sorrento too; it's a pretty place and more relaxed than Naples, but not unmissable. I wouldn't bother with it if you're not going to do Pompeii, as it's just more travelling time.

Herculaneum is easy to get to on the train from Naples - the station feels particularly chaotic though, ensure you have enough time to get your ticket and find your way to the right platform. There was a guy when we were there who was 'offering' tourists advice as to what platform they needed, but then demanding payment, so avoid (if he's still there!)

We did a trip up Vesuvius on the same day as Herculaneum - made the mistake of grabbing a quick lunch at the cafe adjacent to the train station whilst we waited for the Vesuvius bus - a good reminder to never eat anywhere where prices aren't clearly displayed.

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