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Use our Travel forum for recommendations on everything from day trips to the best family-friendly holiday destinations.

St Lucia - first time visit

30 replies

Helpmetounderstand · 22/10/2023 15:23

We have used our amazing airmiles to book 14 nights in St Lucia in August 2024. But I'm slightly struggling with the price of hotels, and whether or not we should stay the whole time in one resort.

Most of the resorts I have found (on Hotels.com) are in the north of the Island (Rodney Bay, although The Landings is the one I quite like the look of). If we stay in one of those hotels, we won't be able to afford all inclusive. I'm unsure if not going all inclusive will end up more expensive, or if it is perfectly easy and practical to eat outside the hotel (the only issue being a fussy family, aside from me, who went to Thailand and ate burgers most of the time).

I would like to visit Soufriere, and I have read that the roads are not so fabulous, and so I wondered if we should stay a few nights there (sadly, it won't be at Sugar Beach!). In which case, do we consider staying for some days on the north of the island, hire a care for some days in the middle, include some nights staying in Soufriere, and then either go back to the north, or go to Vieux Fort?

Also, this is a really stupid question, but I'm wondering how St Lucia compares in atmosphere to Thailand? I realise they are totally different countries and cultures, but I wanted to ask if anyone has been to both.

Thanks!

OP posts:
Reallyitsonlyme · 23/04/2024 07:16

Thanks @itchyhand , that looks great but all his places are fully booked when we are going sadly. Such a shame as it looks fab. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

BarrelOfOtters · 23/04/2024 07:24

I think you made the right choice OP. We weren’t that keen on ST Lucia, we’ve travelled round other Caribbean islands and drove and felt perfectly safe, found great places to eat etc.

St Lucia we were staying in a lovely independent hotel but it wasn’t as easy to find places to chill and eat. We did a boat trip just the 2 of us that was fab and some great snorkelling, but there was an air as we drove around.

it felt geared To AI and stay in a resort or doing resort excursions.

GettingStuffed · 24/04/2024 09:46

We went for out 10th wedding anniversary so over 20 years ago. We loved it. We stayed at Rendezvous on the outskirts of Castries. We did loads of trips both organised, like to the rum distillery and on the local buses.

The only thing I'd say beware of is that vendors put their prices up when cruise ships are in town.

We've considered going back .

backinthebox · 24/04/2024 10:16

I work in the Caribbean a lot, and of all the islands I go to St Lucia is my favourite, although it does require a little bit more effort to winkle the fun out!

The island is not big but as others have noted the roads are very windy and mountainous. Local drivers do tend to just go everywhere with their foot flat to the floor no matter what they are driving, so first tip is to get a car/taxi everywhere rather than bus. A bus will make you sick (this is one of the biggest sticking points from my work colleagues when we go here!)

Next, be aware that the island is split into 2 main holiday areas - the packed touristy north around Rodney Bay, and the quieter west coast. The south and east coast are very windswept, with no real beaches or accommodation at all on the east and only Coconut Bay on the south. Along the west though is beautiful. This is where my favourite bits of the island are.

The hotels along the west coast tend to be more exclusive, but there are cheaper places to stay if you look. I have stayed at Fond Doux and Marigot Bay. I can highly recommend both of them. They are not your typical Caribbean beach holiday though.

Fond Doux is a working chocolate plantation, and the accommodation is in old colonial style workers’ bungalows. My children loved it there, and the owner was great fun. There was a shuttle bus to Malgretout Beach (at the foot of the Pitons) every day, there were lots of chocolate-related activities (we did a family ‘learn about chocolate’ day which culminated in the kids making their own chocolate bars,) you can walk out onto the Tete Paul jungle trail, and within easy reach are the Pitons (worth a climb if you are in St Lucia,) the sulphur springs at the volcano, the botanical gardens, Souffriere, and you can get boat trips from here. We were here for 5 days but be could have easily spent 2 weeks.

Marigot Bay has an all inclusive hotel resort and lots of self catering accommodation. It is a hurricane hole - a narrow inlet sheltered from the sea and surrounded by the village and lush jungle. It has been used for various film sets, most recently Pirates of the Caribbean. It’s quiet and peaceful, but a little further away from Souffriere and after boat trips and relaxing in hotel there is little to do. A pretty place for a few days though.

I also have stayed in Rodney Bay. This is not a great location unless you are keen on bars, water parks, and other stuff you can get in any generic holiday resort in the world. It backs onto a large town, and this is where much of the ‘unsafe’ feelings come from. After we’d had the 5 blissful days at the Pitons, we came up here for 2 days of beach and my kids couldn’t wait to get out of there. Says it all, really. Even the sand on the beach is imported, because the sort of holiday maker who books this type of place is put off by the fact that St Lucia is a volcanic island and the beaches are naturally rocky and dark grey, so they brought in acres of yellow sand from somewhere else (it looks a bit like yellow builders sand to me, and it destroys the natural marine environment where they have put it.)

There are a couple of places further north that get a decent reputation - the Body Hotel and Windjammer, but if you want real luxury Caribbean here I would head back down along the west coast and go to either Anse Chastenet, or (if you have won the lottery!) Sugar Beach. I think Anse Chastenet would be better though, it has an eco philosophy about it and engagement with the local community that I like.

For all those saying 2 weeks in St Lucia is too long - I think you have perhaps not ventured very far around the island or have stayed in the wrong part of it. I could stay there much longer! It has some truly world class snorkelling and diving along the west coast, and amazing boat trip opportunities, as well as the absolutely gorgeous jungle interior - evenings spent under a growling thundery sky as the frogs bleep and the fireflies flash is an unforgettable experience. You mustn’t forget it is in the tropics, and is a rain forest island. Those complaining about the weather - rain forest needs rain to be rain forest!

I have a work trip there next month, just one night, and writing this has made me sad I don’t get another night there.

Reallyitsonlyme · 24/04/2024 19:04

@backinthebox fabulous post and really useful, thank you. Can I pick your brain please?

Is Rodney bay area not a good place to base ourselves for a few nights to visit the rainforest aerial tram ride and various other bits up north of the island, (pigeon island, castries market, gros islet)? We were planning on spending 4 nights up there on arrival (have found an airbnb walkable into rodney bay and its facilities), then get the boat from Castries to Martinique for 8 nights then back for 6 nights somewhere near Soufriere to explore the south of the island before coming home.

Does that make sense? Or would you suggest something different? At the moment we just have flights booked to St Lucia with 18 nights there and the airbnb on a free cancellation for 4 nights. We know the boat to Martinique doesn't go every day, and we need to work around that but I think it works for 8 nights. We always wanted to go to Martinique (we loved a few weeks in Guadeloupe a year ago) and so that's where this whole idea started. This also means we will be in Martinique for canrival.

Any tips would be very welcome. Thank you!

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