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Use our Travel forum for recommendations on everything from day trips to the best family-friendly holiday destinations.

Austrian (or Italian?) Alps in summer (car free)- which resort?

13 replies

Croissantsandpistachio · 26/08/2023 07:29

We had a lovely winter trip to the German Alps last year and fancied a summer trip doing lovely healthful hiking, cable cars, lake swimming etc. A resort which has one of the cards which gets you free access to the lifts, pools etc etc would be great. I'd like to go car free and get the nightjet to Salzburg and then the train. We will probably go self catering (much as I'd love a Kinderhotel the budget is not there!) which means we'd need to be in easy reach of shops on foot. Unless we can find a decent half board option. Generally I'm not that thrilled about Alpine cuisine though.

I've narrowed it down to Zell am See/Kaprun or Saalbach Hinterglemm. Saalbach looks a bit better from a hiking perspective and for kids (they'll be 10 and 7, like nature and swimming) but Zell more convenient (direct train) and has swimming on the lake. Might be a bit hectic in July/August though? Would really appreciate any suggestions from those who know the areas.

The other option might be Italy but I have no idea where might be reachable by train. Any suggestions? Thank you!

OP posts:
banhmi · 26/08/2023 08:07

We just got back from a car-free holiday in Austria by train, but not the areas you mention.

We spent four nights in the WilderKaiser (Ellmau) and then 7 nights in Zell am Ziller, in the Zillertal valley. The latter was particularly well connected with both buses and trains. Ellmau didn't have a station but if you book in advance the local tourist board will arrange you a free transfer by taxi from the nearest station to your accommodation.

We chose apartments specifically to be near transport and the local public pool. We also checked there would be a big enough supermarket within walking distance. We'd walk or get a bus to the cable cars. In Zell am Ziller we paid for cards that allow you one return cable car journey and pool entry a day along with free travel in the area, discounts on bike hire etc. These were not cheap but our kids were free so overall it was worth it - there were about 10 cable cars included so every day we went up a different one.

Had an amazing time - the scenery was so beautiful everywhere and the kids adored all the lakes, playgrounds, pools etc.

Havanananana · 26/08/2023 10:38

@Croissantsandpistachio This is an area of Austria that I know very well.

Saalbach-Hinterglemm has much more hiking than Zell am See for all levels from gentle to very challenging (and mountain biking, including a beginners area) and also has an outdoor pool, cable cars and offers a free Joker Card for guests staying in accommodation (hotels, apartments and B&Bs) participating in the scheme. The Joker Card gives free use of the cable cars, outdoor pool, local buses and the Noddy Train at the end of the valley, and discounts on many other activities. At the end of the Saalbach valley (Talschluss) is also a huge climbing park, a suspension bridge that leads to a tree-top walk, a water park and a "Jump and Slide" area. There are play parks and activities at the top of all of the cable cars, as well as mountain restaurants, and there are activity trails/treasure hunts on two of the mountains to keep the kids engaged. Many hotels, and some apartment complexes, have indoor and/or outdoor pools.

S-H is an easy 20 minute bus ride from Zell am See - the 680 bus leaves from outside Zell am See train station once an hour. There are supermarkets in both Saalbach and Hinterglemm villages, so all accommodation will have a supermarket within easy walking distance.

Zell am See is bigger, and has the beautiful lake with a couple of lakeside lidos and grassy "beaches". It is also far busier, and since being named one of the prettiest lakeside towns in the world is in danger of being too busy in July and August, and in catering for the international guests is losing much of the Austrian charm that made it attractive in the first place.

Personally I'd stay in Saalbach-Hinterglemm and make a day trip or two if you want to go to Zell am See. The 680 bus to Zell am See is free with the Joker Card.

WhenIWasAFieldMyself · 26/08/2023 13:13

I just got back from a week in Seefeld in Tirol and it was perfect. Flight to Innsbruck, half an hour on the train to Seefeld. We did a day's hiking followed by a day's visiting somewhere. Innsbruck itself, Mittenwald in Germany and the Zugspitze mountain.
If we'd been there longer, we'd have done long day trips to Munich and Salzburg.
Big Olympic sports centre in the town (our hotel gave free entry if you stayed more than 3 nights) gold, mini golf, lake swimming galore, chairlifts, cable cars, loads to do.
Can't recommend it highly enough.

JoanThursday · 26/08/2023 14:49

Following! This is exactly what we'd like to do next year ...

Croissantsandpistachio · 26/08/2023 16:57

Oooh cool loads of great advice! Saalbach also seems a lot cheaper for accomodation @Havanananana so I think we might do that. Thanks for the advice.

@WhenIWasAFieldMyself we went to Munich earlier this year and it was fab- I said we should go back in the summer when all the outdoor pools are open. @JoanThursday I think you have to lock bookings in pretty early- this is unusual forward planning from me...

OP posts:
Havanananana · 26/08/2023 17:10

For a DIY holiday, where you book all the elements yourself, the major issue is finding the transport. Whether that is train or by air, this is the element that sells out fastest or earliest. Being a bit creative can resolve this - e.g. not flying on a Saturday, flying to Munich (or Linz or Ljubljana) instead of Innsbruck or Salzburg, taking the time to travel by day by rail, possibly over 2 days (the NightJets seem to sell out very quickly) and so on.

There is plenty of accommodation in resorts such as Saalbach and Hinterglemm and other ski resorts, which only get about 30% of the number of visitors in summer compared with the number of winter guests.

JoanThursday · 26/08/2023 19:05

Croissantsandpistachio · 26/08/2023 16:57

Oooh cool loads of great advice! Saalbach also seems a lot cheaper for accomodation @Havanananana so I think we might do that. Thanks for the advice.

@WhenIWasAFieldMyself we went to Munich earlier this year and it was fab- I said we should go back in the summer when all the outdoor pools are open. @JoanThursday I think you have to lock bookings in pretty early- this is unusual forward planning from me...

Already on it :) . Because of what I do, i can only take a specific week off every summer. We complete one hol and start planning the next. Good to know though - thanks!

southchinasea · 27/08/2023 18:26

We went to Seefeld in Tirol this summer and loved it - the fantastic walking and mountain views. Our hotel included half board and the food was good, especially breakfasts. The hotel had a lovely lake pond for swimming, as well as indoor and outdoor pool. It was easy to get there on the train from Innsbruck airport and very easy to get around on local buses and trains. We may well go back again next year.

lilachouse · 28/08/2023 22:32

watching, this sounds like an amazing destination

Catsdogsfish · 10/08/2024 20:50

Hi. Just wondering if you went to Saalbach? We are thinking about it next year.

elizabethcharlotte · 11/08/2024 08:01

southchinasea · 27/08/2023 18:26

We went to Seefeld in Tirol this summer and loved it - the fantastic walking and mountain views. Our hotel included half board and the food was good, especially breakfasts. The hotel had a lovely lake pond for swimming, as well as indoor and outdoor pool. It was easy to get there on the train from Innsbruck airport and very easy to get around on local buses and trains. We may well go back again next year.

Sounds perfect. Which hotel did you stay in please?

tobyj · 11/08/2024 08:30

How about the Slovenian alps? Your budget would go further. We've just come back from Bohinj, and it was stunning, and not too busy. Crystal clear lake swimming, cable car and hiking etc. {Just don't stay in Bled - great for a day trip but very touristy.) Alternatively French alps? Food perhaps better than Austria? We had a week in Samoens a couple of years ago which was also fabulous.

southchinasea · 11/08/2024 09:04

elizabethcharlotte · 11/08/2024 08:01

Sounds perfect. Which hotel did you stay in please?

We stayed in the Wellness hotel Schonruh in Seefeld - we found it in one of the walking holidays brochures, Inghams I think, but booked direct via the hotel website. It's adults only but the same family have other hotels in Seefeld that do take children. We've been two years in a row, in June.

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