Japan ideas and recommendations

[ihatethecold]

I’d like to go in January 2024 for my significant birthday,
flying Into Tokyo for a few days and then travel round a bit.
id love to see the snow monkeys and experience staying in some more traditional places.

Can you tell me any companies or places that are a must.

im hoping to be there for 2 weeks to make the most of flying that far.

just starting my planning (and saving)

I went years ago in Autumn and did Tokyo and Kyoto. I believe they are the two most common tourist locations? We took a normal train between the two cities. If you have time, I would add a stay in a onsen ryokan (I think that’s what they are called).

Try and get to see some Sumo wrestling. I didn't think I'd enjoy it but it was fabulous. It's on in Tokyo 3 times a year, one of which is January 😀

I’d love to see some sumo. I fell down a rabbit hole of watching sumo tournaments live on YouTube a couple of years ago.

I know! We came home and had to get up really early to watch it online.

I so wish we could go back now but Covid got in the way and now our son is exactly the wrong age to cope with a long flight 😭 A few years from now hopefully.

I'm so jealous of everyone who gets to plan to go sooner! 😬

We have booked with Inside Japan in 2019 but haven't managed to go yet because of the pandemic. They have been very good at planning the trip in the first place and honouring the original costs (except for flights.) Their communication has been great throughout.

Our itinerary is;

Day 1-3 in Tokyo with a private guide tour and a Ghibli Museum trip

Train to Hakone
Day 4 -5 in Hakone - staying in a Ryokan traditional inn with Onsen.

Train to Kyoto
Day 6-8 in Kyoto staying in a town house, including a private tour and a theatre performance
Day 9 - Day trip to Osaka

Train to Tokyo
Day 10-11 Tokyo

Fingers crossed our 2020 Hamani holiday will actually go ahead in April 2023!

I now have a 954 day streak on Duolingo Japanese.

@ManyManyBiscuits well done! Out of interest, how much do you feel you’re learning of the Japanese? I’m learning via Duolingo and a textbook-based course. I’m at 100 odd days. I’m not expecting to be able to speak Japanese in another 18 months but would hope to be able to have a better time with signage/menus/basic interactions etc than I did the last time I was there and to be able to grasp the gist of what’s on the news and weather in the morning. Does that feel realistic to you? I’m also watching Japanese tv and news with Japanese rather than English subtitles for a bit of immersion.

@MadameMinimes

I'm not sure much of it is sinking in! I have a memory like a goldfish. I can read the hiragana and katakana alphabets very slowly but if it's kanji, I'm largely clueless except for 山 and some other basic ones.

I think I should be able to order food, have basic introductory conversations and because Duolingo I can tell you that my dog is wearing a hat and I don't want purple pants.

I also did 4 or 5 terms of online evening class with Citylit though which was much better for explaining the grammar and meant I actually had to practice speaking out loud but it was quite a commitment financially and in terms of homework, given that we're only going for a 12 day holiday!

Your dog should spend time with my cat.
The cat does not play the piano!

That sounds promising. I’m not expecting to be fluent, but do want to be able to recognise key stuff on a menu, read basic signage and order a drink. I’ve been putting in a good amount of time each day now I’m off for the summer (teacher). Fingers crossed it works.

Lived in Tokyo for almost 10 years and honeymooned there. This is not the most ordered list, but as things are coming back to me, I have added them.

As others have said, highly recommend the Japan Railpass (has to be purchased outside Japan, and not available to Japan residents).

I would go in Spring or Autumn it you are interested in Nature. Weather is at its best and either Sakura blossom or Autumn colours to see.

However, if you are there in winter, and it is running, consider a visit to the Sapporo snow festival - amazing snow and ice sculptures on a grand scale through the centre of the city. Otaru, with its canals, can be a nice (if cold) side trip for an afternoon/evening.

If you are in the Japan Alps, I recommend Hida-Takayama for a visit (you can get a bus from Matsumoto to Takayama if you are trying to do do both). Just outside Takayama is a good (not cheap, unfortunately) ryokan called Wanosato, where you can stay in individual buildings in a peaceful wooded river valley a taxi-ride outside Takayama.

The gassho-zukuri houses in Shirakawa-go are also worth the bus trip if you want to see historic Japan architecture.

To that end a little bit west of Central Tokyo the Edo-Tokyo Tatemono-en is an open air architectural museum with examples of Japanese building styles from various times in history preserved in a park. It's a stop or two beyond the Studio Ghibli museum (IIRC).

In terms of day-trips from Tokyo, both Kamakura and Nikko are worth considering for their (very different) shrines and scenery. Not essential, though, if you are also planning to visit Kyoto. And if you do visit Kyoto, you should also take a side trip to Nara.

If heading west beyond Osaka is on the cards, Himeji-jo castle presents a fine contrast to Matsumoto in the Japan alps and then heading on to Hiroshima and Miya-jima (site of the famous red torii gate in the sea), a short ferry-ride from Hiroshima is well worth doing. Consider staying in a ryokan on the island to get to see things without the tourist crowds - a very different experience.

If heading to Kyushu is on the cards, Nagasaki presents a very different experience to Hiroshima.

If gardens are your thing, and your visit is between Spring and Autumn, consider visiting Kanazawa on the Sea of Japan coast.

If you have a Sunday in Tokyo, a good itinerary can be spending som time in Shibuya (location of the 'scramble crossing'), walking through the Olympic park to Harajuku and down through Omotesando admiring the high-end shops and their architecture. The Prada building is well worth a look. The Tokyu-Hands store in Shibuya is worth a look for the sheer diversity of what it sells.

That's probably plenty for now - do budget enough for eating out. At all levels you will generally get a good meal - particularly in the big cities as there's so much competition, really poor places don't survive. But it's worth budgeting for one or two high-end meals if you can. Learning a few words of Japanese can greatly enhance the experience - being able to walk into a sushi-ya and express that you would like "omakase" (chef's choice) but your budget is "x" can get you things you wouldn't see on the menu (or think to order).

@macshoto
What a great post. I had forgotten the Prada building!

You have also mentioned the old buildings I want to see next time!! We also went to Hase as well as Kamakura. My DD wanted to go on the monorail and the Enoden line which is also a great experience and easy to do out of Tokyo.

@macshoto We had a great day out in Takayama (specifically Hida folk village) and a beautiful train ride through the Japanese Alps from Kanazawa <3

Yes - we really enjoyed that, as well as the merchant houses in the town itself.

For anyone not getting to Takayama, the Edo-Tokyo Tatemono-en provides some of the same sort of experience - just in a more diverse collection of buildings.

Inside Japan is a brilliant company. They do self-guided tours - so they book everything for you in advance - from hotels or rental flats to train tickets, msueum entrances etc and then you just show up and do what you want. They have loads of ready tailored tours rthey have tested but we designed our own and they were so helpful. They are very knowledgable.

Highlights for me:
Climbing Mount Koya and staying with the Buddhist monks in a monastery
Hand feeding wild baby monkeys (you stand in a cage with healthy snacks, they roam free and come to you if they want) at Arashiyama near Kyoto.
Kyoto - everything about it from cherry blossoms in the geisha district to the Golden Pavilion, Fushimi Inari shrines and Nara.
But there was so much more. If I was going back I'd want a week in Kyoto and few days in Tokyo.

Japan notes: 📝

Osaka
Universal Studios (Harry Potter Wizarding World)

Accomodation
J-Hoppers Osaka Universal
JR Ajikawaguchi MRT
universal.j-hoppers.com/

Kyoto 1hrs
Ajikawaguchi Station (akurajima Line,) Nishikujo Station (Osaka Loop Line, Osaka Station,) Kyoto Station (Tokaido-Sanyo Line)

Gion Ryokan Q-beh book 6 months in advance
q-beh.com/
Name/address in local language
Local name:
祇園旅館 休兵衛
Local address:
〒605-0072東山区鷲尾町505-3

Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple - 1200 carved stone statues
bus stop otagidera-mae

Gion Area
Yasaka Shrine
Shirakawa canal

Kinkakuji & Ginkakuji
The Temple of the Golden Pavillionand & Ryoan-Ji

Fushimi Inari Shrine (sunset)
Shrine of 1000 gates

Kiyomizudera Temple (UNESCO)
Higashiyama

Imperial Palace & gardens

Nishiki Market

Nijo Complex
Yamasaki whiskey distillery

Arashiyama
Nagano Scenic Railway and River boat
Philosophers’ walk (blossom - silver pavilion)
Tenruji Temple

Sagano Bamboo Forest

Nara
UNESCO
shinto shrine
Todaji

17 UNESCO world heritage sites

Kinkaku temple Golden Pavillion (sunset)
Ryoan Ji temple (Zen Garden)

Kozan-Ji Temple (bus near Ryoan-ji.)

Gion District
Ginkaku ji temple Silver Pavilion
& Philosopher’s path (1.5km canal walk)
Kiyomizudera temple (view & wooden plaform)

Nijo jo Castle - samurai castle (centre)

To-ji Temple (tallest wooden pagoda)

Saiho ji Temple (troublesome application procedure to visit.)

Nishi-Hongan-Ji Temple
Ninna-Ji Temple (zen garden)
Shimogamo-Jinja Shrine
Enryaku Ji Temple

Byodo-in Temple (Uji City 10km south 10 Yen Coin)
Ujigami-Jinja Shrine (nearby Uji bicycle ride)

Daigo-Ji Temple
Kamigamo-jinja Shrine

📝 notes from a friend:

Here are my MUST-SEE in KYOTO places - this is aside from all the temples and shrines which I'm guessing you will go see:

Ippodo Tea Room
I suggest the Premium Matcha Tea with hard or soft confections. Absolute delight. Place is packed yet as quiet as a library, incredible tea experience and store next door to take whatever you want home with you. This same street is lined with antique shops for interesting window shopping and to see the prices things like vintage Japanese hair combs fetch.

Japan, 〒604-0915 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 二条上ル常盤木町52 Teramachi Dori

Kikyo Sushi
Very modest family owned sushi restaurant that has the best sushi I've ever tasted in my life. While I'm sure there are fancier places to go, this will not disappoint. I had the toro, sea urchin, and unagi - all left me speechless.

Japan, 〒604-0071 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 丸太町下る大文字町43 Aburanokoji Dori

Yoramu Sake Bar

Seats 8. Not fancy, but may be the best sake bar in all of Japan. Run by a slightly surly middle eastern Sake expert. He urges you to not be polite when he is trying to find you the sake of your dreams, and he will make good on this promise. If you want a light snack he'll fire up a pan of something for you.

Japan, 〒604-0831 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 二条通東洞院東入ル松屋町３５−１

Lorimer
Hipster restaurant imported from Brooklyn serves their take on traditional Japanese breakfast is completely worth it. Set menu with add-ons.

１４３ Hashizumecho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 600-8183, Japan

Walden Woods Coffee

Minimalist hipster coffee mecca designed by an American. I did not get to go here but I will do so next time.

508-1 Sakaecho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 600-8194, Japan

Nishiki Market
This 700-year-old street food market features baby octopus and soy donuts.

Five Mountains, or Kyoto Gozan
tenryu-ji by city bus or by JR train from kyoto station to saga arashiyama station (嵯峨嵐山駅). take the south exit and walk down the street for about 200 meters (220 yards), then make a right turn just before you get to the train tracks (different line). you will walk straight into tenryu-ji after 350 meters (380 yards).

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji
Twelve hundred stone carvings guard this off-the-beaten-path Buddhist temple.

In Japan, the ten existing "Five Mountain" temples (five in Kyoto and five in Kamakura, Kanagawa) were both protected and controlled by the shogunate

Hoping to book Japan for June 2023 so will have a nice read through this at lunchtime.

For anyone who has done universal studios etc, where is the best and closest hotel to stay? Kids are mad to go to Nintendo world so planning a few days there. Also how many days would you suggest for the theme parks? We are not huge on rollercoasters and things but love a good look around a theme park.

Following.

We are planning to go next September and are currently putting together an itinerary. Thanks for all these great ideas 🙂

To add to the thoughts on Kagoshima, we spent our time there mostly visiting Sakurajima the volcano island which is about 20 minutes away by ferry. The volcano vents most days, and the island itself is beautiful. Kagoshima itself struck me as a Japanese Hawaii with wide streets and that coastal entertainment vibe.

My absolute favourite place was Hakodate, south of Sapporo. It's a city much influenced by its maritime heritage, with lots of historic buildings. Including on The Slopes where houses were built to maximise their views of the mountains and the bay. We visited in November to brilliant sunshine, flaming autumn leaves on the buildings and tiny particles of snow in the air.

Travelled with Explore Holidays, did the 14night Simply Japan tour in 2016. Was truly an amazing holiday, so many different experiences. Loved every minute of it.

Jumping aboard! I have a DD (nearly 15) and DD (nearly seven) who have never left the British Isles. My dad died last year and left us a bequest specifically for a once-in-a-lifetime holiday. We have decided our destination is Japan and we’re hoping to go next school Easter holidays as DD1 is Y10 and I don’t want anything to interfere with her GCSE year.

I really appreciate all the information provided so far; we’re going to be busy Googling when we get some family downtime!

Can I ask, do you think two weeks is long enough in Japan? Also, those of you who have done organised tours (which is what we will be doing as I am a totally lone parent and can’t take on any more life admin or mental strain), did you join in small group tours or did you opt for private tours for your family?

Those of you with teens, what did your DC enjoy best? Those of you with younger children, what did they enjoy best?

Thanks so much in advance for your help.

We also went with Inside Japan and I would again. They are brilliant. It's a self-guided tour which is perfect - you do what you want when you want, but they organise absolutely everything - every last train trip, museum entrance, hotel, home stay. When we wanted to go on a pilgrimage hike they even provided photos of forks in the road and told us which one to take so we wouldn't get lost.

They have suggested itineraries and one does include the snow monkeys. If not, there is a very fine monkey feeding experience in Arashiyama where you climb a hill and get inside a big cage on top. Then wild monkeys come from the surrounding hills to the humans in the cage to be fed peanuts and apples which are sold from a little stall inside the cage. I fed baby monkeys and elderly monkeys and cheeky young ones. It was amazing.

Forgot to add
Our itinerary was something like:
Osaka (chose this route so we didn't waste Tokyo time feeling jet-lagged)
Nara
Kyoto - 3 days
Koya
Nakasendo
Tokyo - 4 days

I would love to go back.

Another - very specific - question, DD1 is registered blind (she does have some functional sight), how disability friendly is Japan?

@EmmaTheStageRat I am visually impaired, although not registered blind, and I found Japan reasonable for adjustments. Everything is well ordered, so plenty of crossings, streets in good repair, roadworks barricaded by cute squirrels holding cones etc. I found parks such as Hiroshima pretty accessible too. Trains had safety features at the platform edge. We were exclusively in towns and cities, so I am not sure about the countryside.