Help me plan this Italian holiday please - Naples and surrounds.

[Celeriacacaca]

We will fly into Naples and I imagine will have 2-3 days there to visit Pompeii/Mt Vesuvius. Then we have 3 nights which I'm not sure where we are best to spend them - somewhere on the Amalfi coast (or two places?). If you've been to this area, where would you advise please? (This is for DH, myself and two teenagers who're pretty tolerant of sightseeing etc). After that we're planning to go to Ischia for 5-6 nights so, again, any recommendations on areas to stay on the island would be helpful.

Definitely Positano, absolutely beautiful.

Agree with pp that Sorrento is beautiful but dull, dull dulll. Full of fat middle aged American tourists and shops selling overpriced tat for said Americans to take home.

Naples on the other hand is amazing. So lively and interesting. We stayed in an apartment in Chiaia and spent the evenings after dinner people watching from our balcony. It’s definitely one of the most interesting cities in Europe to visit and such a lovely contrast from the tourist hells that are Rome, Florence etc. Just take sensible precautions like you would in any big city and you’ll be fine.

We've stayed on the Amalfi coast in Maiori a couple of times, and loved it. Last year we stayed in Sant'Agata, just outside Sorrento. Sorrento has its interesting parts but I'm not sure we'll go back (although we found a rather lush Limoncello infused with coffee at one of the distilleres on the peninsula during our stay and I can't track it down anywhere so a return visit may have to be done!). I'd second Herculaneum for a visit, we've done it twice and learnt something different on each visit. Pompeii is amazing for the sheer size but it's so busy you can't really appreciate it in my view.
Amalfi -visit the Cathedral if you go, it is stunning.
The coast road is, um, interesting, wouldn't want to drive it myself. The bus drivers must have nerves of steel, and there always a moped driver who just has to squeeze through the gap! You can always get between most of the villages on the coast by the water taxies/ferries. Much quicker and just as scenic.

I love Naples too and you must go see the statue of the veiled Christ, abdxthe other statues in the tiny chapel of veiled woman and man in a net, plus the preserved bodies in the basement.

Pizza at Sorbillo, you will have to queue to get in abd the building still has scaffolding from the mafia trying to blow it up but it’s cheap and amazing and you can get a really cheap beer or spritz to drink from the stand across the street while you wait.

Shops are decent too. It’s obviously a poor city and you need to be sensible but I’ve been a few times and never felt unsafe. It’s very good value for money compared to the other towns mentioned.

Sorrento, Amal fi, positano are all beautiful but there is most to do in sorrento.

I’d happily go anywhere along there any time.

Naples is great for the museum and the restaurants on the little island in the harbour. But to add to the stories, my friend and I were thrown to the ground by young men on mopeds and had our bags stolen on the way back to the hotel. We were physically hurt too, and the police were totally unbothered. They laughed actually. So go to Pompeii and Vesuvius but don’t stay in Naples!

It depends whether your exciting experience of the authentic black soul etc goes into being attacked and robbed. I’ve always lived in and visited big cities and have never been attacked anywhere else.

The museum in Naples very expensive at €15 per person. It was interesting to see the artefacts from Pompeii though.

Positano, Amalfi and Ravello are all beautiful.

I know thinking Naples is great is the new trendy thing, but Sorrento is far nicer and more pleasant to stay in, especially with children. It just is.

I suppose horses for courses? One person's dull is another's peaceful heaven and one person's exciting treasure trove is a dangerous place. I know I love Naples and I would go tomorrow if I could.

Sorrento is the only place I’ve stayed in Europe where I didn’t need a plug converter.

Naples always gets a bad vibe on Mumsnet. I went at 7 months pregnant with my husband and was petrified from everything I have read on here but we went and it was incredible.

The people were lovely, there was so much to see and do and the food was nothing like any other place in Italy I have been too. Was amazing.

Yes, grimy, gritty in some places but it adds to the vibe I think. I didn't see any gangs etc but saying that we were in by 8pm every night because I was exhausted.

As pp says, the trains from Naples to anywhere else is great, you can go to Rome and it's really easy to get to Pompeii, sorrento and Vesuvius etc.
Xx

We are going at Easter and staying in Sorrento. We plan a visit to Herculaneum, the Amalfi coast by boat, maybe Pompeii as we've been before, and maybe a trip to Ischia or Capri. I love Ischia and the castello.

Absolutely love Naples - if you’re used to cities then it didn’t feel very much more unsafe than other places. I’m more careful about pickpockets when there. Recommend hotel Bellini - lovely - central, safe, helpful (I once had to rearrange whole holiday due to family emergency and they were very helpful) and in good spot for old parts of city/restaurants etc.
Have fun. Recommend solfatara for volcano although not sure how open it is after tragedy summer 2018.

I have been to this area 7 times and traveled all over, so know it really well. Also got married there! I’m going to disagree with a lot of what is said here. I’ve also been to Ischia, Positano, Capri etc at least 3 times.

Naples is a fantastic city if you scratch beneath the surface. I too thought it was horrible and unsafe when I first visited and didn’t know where to go. But it’s a real gem. You have to know the history to ‘get’ the city. It’s oldest road is Greek and predates the Romans- Spaccanapoli. It’s a really long street and looks like a cut through the city if you go up to Vomero. I have stayed in the city many times. I’ve put highlights below.

Sorrento is in a stunning location and pretty to visit, but full of British package tourists and food is mainly a bit shite. You don’t want to stay here unless you got a good deal on a package hotel and flight imo. There are much better options.

Positano is amazing. Nothing better than arriving by boat. Then swimming in the sea looking up. But I wouldn’t stay or eat there. It’s poor value for money unless you are a millionaire! Amalfi is similar.

Personally I would stay In Maiori which is a holiday resort where Italians stay. Torre Normana restaurant is a must for a blow out meal. Other restaurants are so cheap, there are plenty to choose from and food is authentic. You will find few Brits here. It’s a hidden gem but actually has the largest beach on the coast. There are a lot of modern buildings but it’s lovely strolling along the lungomare and stunning harbour. It’s just below Ravello which is great for a day trip and next to Minori which has a similar vibe to Maiori but much smaller so fewer accommodation options. You can take boat trips and local buses from here to Positano, Amalfi, Ravello - and in the other direction Salerno to connect to Paestum (Greek temples).

Ischia is amazing. One of my favourite places. I love Negombo spa best and staying in or near Forio. Mortello gardens are a must see. There is a great vineyard tour if you’re interested. Hot springs at sorgetto beach and maronti beach. Stunning castle at ischia ponte. I can recommend specific hotels if interested let me know. Some have free shuttles and port pickup. Many have pools. Lots have very good food. Cava scura is an original roman spa you can still use! Fantastic place and too much to see in 5 days. Island is good value for money. Do you get seasick? Consider the ferry’s rather than hydrofoil if you do.

Capri. I hate it. Been three times and as beautiful as it is, it’s hell on earth with the crowds and queues. Skip it for Ischia. Much better and actually has a lot more beach options. Again if you’re incredibly wealthy I’m sure Capri is amazing. But not for the plebs!!

Pomepei is best reached by Naples on the circumsuviana. Easy peasy day trip. Ask for specifics if needed. Can provide more details. It is generally hot there as it’s so exposed. Expect a very tiring day. Herculaneum is an easier day trip, site is smaller and it’s just as fascinating imo If you’re into roman history.

@Celeriacacaca... I promised to tell you why I like Naples!! It gets such a bad press. But it’s fantastic. See Naples and die! Here are some reasons why I love it.

People living a full life. The buzz of humanity everywhere you look. It’s authentic, real Southern Italy. The people have passion. Yes there’s crime but actually unless you’re hanging around the train station after hours or a bit silly flaunting your bag, you’ll be fine. I’ve actually had Neapolitans come up to me and tell me to switch my bag to the other shoulder when walking on a road. People are generally lovely. There ARE dodgy types around the station. Just jump in a taxi! They’re cheap. Make sure it has a meter.

The food. Oh my god the food. Do your research and you will have the best pizza, arancini, gelato, coffee, taralli, Sfogliatelle, linguini alla vongole, Friggitori, rum baba, Buffalo Mozarella, Aperol Spritz, Negroni.... of your life!! In non touristy places. For peanuts. With some gruff but authentic Neopolitan charm on the side. What is better than that? Lots of restaurants are in beautiful buildings and those by the sea have lovely views. Your teens will love you for taking them there and it will be a culinary education. Research before you go.

The heritage and history. So many amazing churches, a shopping centre, palaces, ancient, streets in the centro storico, sanservo christ, archeological museum (excellent, woefully quiet), museums, castles,

The setting. From above. From the lungomare.

Day trips. Vesuvius, Herculaneum, Ischia, Capri, Caserta, Campi Flegri ... are all easily reached for a day trip from Napoli. Much easier than from the coast.

Yes it’s a bit grubby. There’s graffiti. There’s crime (but you can easily protect yourselves by following sensible precautions), there can be problems with garbage. But it’s full of gems, fun and very, very tasty. I used to slag it off too before I got under its skin. Do some research and enjoy it! I have recommendations on where to stay if you need. People who dismiss it don’t know what they’re missing!

@JayAlfredPrufrock Yes I wholeheartedly agree! Naples is fab. Sorrento is so boring and mediocre, despite its glorious setting. Its a good thing really that the Brits stay there and only manage a day trip or two - invariably Capri which is why it’s so bloody busy (why people rave about it when they’ve been treated like cattle is beyond me )

Good for us in the know though!

Sorrento is dull dull dull.

Naples is bloody fabulous.

God, there's always one.

Some people seem to take perverse pleasure in raving over destinations that no-one else will touch with a shitty stick.

In sure Naples is fabulous if muggers, beggars and prostitutes are your thing.

Sorrento is a great place to base yourselves if you want to visit Pompeii or Vesuvius because the train from there is so cheap and easy.

We got an early train from Sorrento and got out at Ercolano. Turn left out of the station and there is a tourist place there that offers a coach to Vesuvius. We got the first coach of the day which meant it was less busy at the crater. You have time to climb to the crater and down before the coach takes you back.

We then got the train to Pompeii from Ercolano station and spent the rest of the day there. Alternatively you could visit the ruins at Herculaneum which is a short walk from Ercolano station and then do the trip Pompeii another day.

You can also get a bus to Amalfi from Sorrento ( from outside the train station) and if you wanted to you can stop off at Positano on the way. Buses do get very busy though.

Wow - thank you all - some amazing tips and advice here. Thanks too BlueSkies for taking the time to give so much info. I really appreciate it.

One further question: does public transport (bus?) run all the way up to Maiori or do you really need a car? I'd much prefer public transport, if possible.

Thanks again all. I'm feeling very excited about the trip with all these ideas you've given me.

Naples is one of my favourite cities.
Your teens would love the museum there - there's an over 18s section where the roman porn is kept. The tunnels are fantastic too - WW2 place of safely for the terribly bombed Napoleons. There are toys just left in the dust. It's poignant historic and amazing.

Don't skimp Naples just cos it's loud and feisty!

Capri. I hate it. Been three times and as beautiful as it is, it’s hell on earth with the crowds

What on earth would you go three times to a place you hate?

When are you going?

Naples is a brilliant city. I would stay there and then one of the islands/coast but depends on the time of year.

I'd also favour Ercolarno (Herculaneum) over Pompeii as it's such a complete site and easy to visit on a day.

@Celeriacacaca you’re welcome. Yes the bus runs all the way to Maiori and beyond- last stop is Salerno which has a train station.

We’ve never hired a car in Campania- you don’t need to. Taxis are available too if your budget is higher. We usually get a taxi to/ from airport with young kids as it’s much quicker- but won’t when they’re older