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Use our Travel forum for recommendations on everything from day trips to the best family-friendly holiday destinations.

Japan tips and advice please

31 replies

ihatethecold · 03/01/2019 18:55

My DH has said he would love to go to Japan. Im not so keen due to the long distance and not really knowing much about Japan apart from Tokyo.

I have been thinking we could stop off in HK. Ive wanted to go back there for a long time.

When is the best time to go to Japan? Where to stay? Tokyo? Kyoto?

Olympics and the rugby world cup will need to be avoided due to a price increase I would imagine.

Is it easy enough to organise myself or should I use a specialist company or TA like Trailfinders?

Thanks

OP posts:
BubblesBuddy · 04/01/2019 12:55

You will get different views on how to organise this. What suits one person doesn’t necessarily suit another. We used an agent but you can diy all bookings and arrangements.

The flight time direct is about 12 hours so not much different to HK. Personally, I would fly direct and forget HK which is much better combined with China, in my view. Your next step should be to buy the Lonely Planet Guide to Japan and Plan an itinerary depending on the length of time you have available. You should aim to go between March and end October. However the cherry blossom season in spring is manic in Japan and prices go up. Ditto for autum leaves. So late April is a good time after the blossom season! The summer months are hot and humid and I would avoid.

We used an agent and the tour was put together for us but we had BA avios flights so they fitted the tour into our dates. We used a Japan Rail pass and this is the most efficient way to travel. We started in Tokyo, did a day trip to Hase and Kamakura, and then travelled to Matsumoto and Kyoto. We walked a short part of the Nagasendo Highway beteeen Magome and Tsumago. We stayed in a mix of standard hotels, boutique hotels (The Mume in Kyoto is outstanding) and Ryokans (traditional
Inns). We also went to Nara and Osaka. We didn’t go to Hiroshima but many people do.

English is not widely spoken but there are plenty of signs and info in railway stations in English. We had no problems with language. All the areas we visited were wonderful. Kyoto is the “must see” though. It has 17 world heritage sights, great restaurants, Geikos and maikos, tea houses and fascinating craft shops and a good bus service but be prepared to walk. We also did a cookery class there organised by the Women’s Association of Kyoto. It was fantastic! We also went to a Geiko show of dance and music and they hold them in May and October. The costumes were stunning. Didn’t understand a word but it didn’t matter as the story was fairly self explanatory! The audience were dressed very expensively but the tickets were around £30 each. I have never seen so many Chanel and Hermes handbags in one venue before!

In Toyko we stayed in Shubiya which has easy access to Ginza and lots of restaurants. Good for rail links too. Tokyo has so many fascinating areas, you almost need a week there but Kyoto has the more historic sights. Greater Tokyo has 40 m people. It’s busy!

Everyone is ultra polite, friendly and helpful. Food can often be ordered from pictures and is relatively cheap in cafes. Go where others are eating! We don’t drink much but I believe that can be expensive. You can send your luggage ahead to your hotel. It costs around £8 a bag big Japanese trains don’t have much luggage space so having just a day bag works well.

Do go and explore beyond Tokyo. It’s an amazing country and I really want to go back!

lotusbell · 04/01/2019 12:56

Following this as I want to go to Japan too, although can't see it happening for a long time! Hope you don't mind!

ihatethecold · 04/01/2019 14:22

thank you bubbles, lots of useful advice. I think we may aim for 2020, not during the summer, I'm aware the olympics may make it impossible if it's crazy expensive. we could go mid June or after summer.

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NotCitrus · 04/01/2019 14:44

I went in July, because my flight and hotel were paid for. It was 40 degrees and humid as hell. We did still have a great time but had to take things slowly and avoid much walking - one extreme day had us running across roads in Tokyo from aircon building to aircon building. So if you can afford, I would go another time!

We found few people spoke English, even in 5-star international hotels (they'd have one English speaker on duty from 9-5),but many people could read it, so we could point at an address and be ushered in the right direction.

If you like Japanese food and can be relaxed about what you get, there are restaurants on every corner and the food is fabulous.

Foreigners can buy a Japan Rail pass before they go, which can get you from airport to cities and around them (the rail network in Tokyo is extensive enough you don't need the metro as well). So flying to Tokyo and then shinkansen to other cities is usually the best deal.

Traditional Japanese-style hotels aren't all luxurious - we ended up in one that was essentially a backpacker hostel, but so cheap we didn't really mind - we found excellent food and massages elsewhere.

BubblesBuddy · 04/01/2019 17:22

I agree about avoiding the summer. I think autumn would be better than June. April/May is ok and Mid Sept onwards.

We stayed in two reasonable ryokans that definitely were not back packer type of accommodation. Rates will indicate quality.

ihatethecold · 04/01/2019 17:24

What is a ryokan?

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BubblesBuddy · 04/01/2019 18:53

A ryokan is a traditional Lodging. They have slippers waiting for you, there are no beds and you eat traditional food (usually). Guests sleep on tatami mats and futons in the bedrooms and walls might be paper screens. They frequently have an onsen - communal or private nude bathing. If you go to Japan, staying in one gives you a peek into Japanese culture. The ones in Tsumago are wonderful!

ihatethecold · 04/01/2019 19:10

wow, how much did you pay to stay in one?

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C8H10N4O2 · 04/01/2019 20:14

I'd echo most of Bubbles comments, including going straight to Japan rather than trying to bolt on HK. Spring blossoms and autumn colour are lovely times to go.

When you order a Japan Rail pass its worth getting the Suica card (Oyster card equivalent) and pocket wifi (mobile unlimited broadband) at the same time if you plan to move around a lot. You should order these before you go and then collect them at your preferred airport/station. Trains are fast and very reliable. If traveling a lot then travel light - AirBNBs and hotels typically have washing machines.

After that its down to what you prefer - history, countryside, modern cities?
When I've been with DH we haven't spent a lot of time in Tokyo - I've worked there and he just wanted to see the key sights there.

Kyoto is the big city for temples and culture and you can get rental smack in the middle of Downtown, near to the market and walk to the main sites. Less well known are the boat trips down the Hozugawa River which are fabulous, especially in the Autumn, ending near a bamboo grove.

If you want to see Mayajima and Hiroshima (I recommend both) then try to stay on the island for a couple of nights, taking a day to go up the mountain cable car and follow the paths slowly down. Then spend the evenings watching the sunset over the floating gate. You can visit Hiroshima as a day trip from Mayajima or en route to somewhere else (the stations have left luggage lockers as well as forwarding services).

If you like culture and countryside then consider the Alpine regions - visit Takeyama for a beautiful preserved old town, then take the AlpenRoute across the Alps from Tateyama to Omachi. You can stay in a Ryokan one end and central Matsumoto hotel near the castle at the other end. You can do the route in a day or take longer and visit more of the walking sites en route.

Matsushima is also less visited by Westerners - its on the coast further North and famous for its bay and islands plus an amazing Zen temple.

Get a travel guide and plan your own trip based around the kind of sites you like to see - its not difficult with online booking for hotels and rentals.

Don't be afraid to communicate with an owner via the medium of Google Translate - everyone does it and it works out fine. English isn't widely spoken but train signs tend to be in both Japanese and English. Staff in hotels, trains, restaurants often know key words and are patient and polite with customers faffing around with translator apps on phones Grin

If you have dietary restrictions get them translated and printed out before you go - staff are fantastically helpful if they know what you need.

If you haven't been before I would stick to Honshu the first time but don't be afraid to move around.

ihatethecold · 05/01/2019 17:07

We haven’t been before. We are Japan virgins. Hence not having a clue where to start.

Thanks C8. Your advice is also very helpful.

OP posts:
Obsidian77 · 05/01/2019 17:14

Following with interest.
If I may also add a question, what's the best way to book ryokans? Directly online or through a travel agent? Thanks

Doughdog · 05/01/2019 18:37

I went 10 years ago. I haven't got much to add from previous posters but just wanted to say that i was also pretty anxious about it but it really was the most wonderful holiday. We had a train pass and getting around was so easy, people were so helpful and friendly despite the language barrier. I even managed to procure some laxatives, the pharmacist was incredibly kind and patient!
I would love to go back. I'm not a very experienced traveller but it was just brilliant. I can't recommend it enough.

Cornishmumofone · 05/01/2019 19:01

K's House is a brilliant hostel chain (private double rooms) that is better value than most hotels (and more spacious).

If you are able to learn some Japanese before you go, it will make it easier.

I've been several times - my favourite trip was when we cycled across Japan for three weeks following the cherry blossom. We saw a lot more rural Japan than most people do.

Entrance fees to most Japanese castles are very cheap, so make sure you visit some.

BubblesBuddy · 05/01/2019 20:49

There is a web site: japaneseguesthouses.com

We stayed at the Fujioto Ryokan in Tsumago. It was booked via our tour company but you can book yourself. It’s a must for any Japsnese holiday!

BubblesBuddy · 05/01/2019 20:52

Japan By Rail book is invaluable if you travel by rail and want to plan your own journey. Thanks C8H for the great ideas!

Helipad · 05/01/2019 22:46

In 2006 we got an invite for a wedding Tokyo and it was an awesome trip. I loved it all and I'm hoping to be able to take my DC there one day so they can experience it all too.

BubblesBuddy · 06/01/2019 10:38

The Ryokan I mentioned is around £80 per person per night, half board. It’s an inclusive experience!

BubblesBuddy · 06/01/2019 10:40

I meant to add: very luxurious ones will be £300 per night for the room etc but the idea is to sample culture and the smaller ones are great. More authentic.

BobbyGentry · 06/01/2019 10:45

If flying Cathay then Hong Kong would be very doable (example: Manchester - Hong Kong, layover, then Hong Kong to Osaka.)

Tips for Osaka & Kyoto

Japan notes

Osaka

Universal Studios

J-Hoppers Osaka Universal
JR Ajikawaguchi MRT
universal.j-hoppers.com/

Kyoto 1hrs
Ajikawaguchi Station (akurajima Line,) Nishikujo Station (Osaka Loop Line, Osaka Station,) Kyoto Station (Tokaido-Sanyo Line)

Gion Ryokan Q-beh (book 6 months in advance)

q-beh.com/

Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple - 1200 carved stone statues
bus stop otagidera-mae

Gion Area
Yasaka Shrine
Shirakawa canal

Kinkakuji & Ginkakuji
The Temple of the Golden Pavillionand & Ryoan-Ji

Fushimi Inari Shrine (sunset)
Shrine of 1000 gates

Kiyomizudera Temple (UNESCO)
Higashiyama

Imperial Palace & gardens

Nishiki Market

Nijo Complex
Yamasaki whiskey distillery

Arashiyama
Nagano Scenic Railway and River boat
Philosophers’ walk (blossom - silver pavilion)
Tenruji Temple

Nara
UNESCO
shinto shrine
Todaji

17 UNESCO world heritage sites

Kinkaku temple Golden Pavillion (sunset)
Ryoan Ji temple (Zen Garden)

Kozan-Ji Temple (bus near Ryoan-ji.)

Gion District
Ginkaku ji temple Silver Pavilion
& Philosopher’s path (1.5km canal walk)
Kiyomizudera temple (view & wooden plaform)

Nijo jo Castle - samurai castle (centre)

To-ji Temple (tallest wooden pagoda)

Saiho ji Temple (troublesome application procedure to visit.)

Nishi-Hongan-Ji Temple
Ninna-Ji Temple (zen garden)
Shimogamo-Jinja Shrine
Enryaku Ji Temple

Byodo-in Temple (Uji City 10km south 10 Yen Coin)
Ujigami-Jinja Shrine (nearby Uji bicycle ride)

Daigo-Ji Temple
Kamigamo-jinja Shrine

Todamhottoday · 06/01/2019 10:59

I have been to Japan many many times, visited north to south and everywhere in-between, lived there (Kyoto) for a short while as well.

My first advice would be to get a guide book and read up of places that appeal to you and your interests. Then come back with specifics.

I would though stick with the well worn path for your fist visit, Tokyo, Kyoto maybe visit an island and Nara which is a great place to see the deer everywhere.

Of course it depends on you length of stay and your budget what else I would recommend. This would also have a bearing on if you should get a Japan Rail (JRpass) pass or not (and for how long) we always travel around alot and use them fully but I do like my comfort and pay for the Green Car which is the equivalent of business class. You can only buy this outside of Japan for non Japanese passport holders.

I adore Japan and all it offers for a visit but you have to do your homework first.

Im more than happy to give recommendations for hotels etc. and if you get a apart hotel with cooking facilities it will save money. Peak time is cherry blossom which varies in different areas. Hotels are more expensive then. But I have also been in the darker winter months up north and it was also fantastic

I could go on and on really.... but in all my visits I have never used a travel agent, booked flights direct with airlines and used Japanese booking sites for hotels or booked direct. But Japanese hotel rooms on the whole tend to be smaller.

Any info/help you need just ask

Bouledeneige · 06/01/2019 11:04

Loved Japan and would definitely like to go back some time. I stayed near Skinjuko in Tokyo which is very central. I also went out into Mount Fuji National Park and stayed in a very lovely Ryokan - it was very restful and fun to stay in traditional accommodation and dress in a kimono etc. The meals were great fun and I used the onsen baths too. ( and the slightly less traditional karaoke bar!).

I would definitely get out to Kyoto -and some of the mountains. Tokyo was totally flattened during the war so there's no oldbuildings left - though some have been rebuilt. The bullet trains are great!

Use tripadvisor message boards for draft itineraries and advice on places to go, distances etc and buy a guide book - like Lonely Planet - they set out suggested itineraries.

Halsall · 06/01/2019 11:23

Just to add to all the excellent previous advice: it used to be the case that you could only buy a Japan Rail Pass from outside Japan, so this had to be organised before you go. It's quite easy to do, from a travel agency. You get vouchers which you then take to a JR mainline station once there, to exchange for the pass. I haven't been to Japan for a few years, sadly, but Wikipedia claims they're currently running a trial of selling the passes in Japan, but at a higher price, so probably still best to buy them here.

They may not seem cheap on the face of it but will save you a very significant amount if you travel by train, especially by shinkansen (bullet trains).

As for getting around - all Tokyo trains/subways have English announcements. Lots of people, especially younger ones, do speak English, as they learn it at school, but are shy of using it in public; however, people are wonderfully helpful. We had no trouble getting around and we went all over the place.

You can find cuisine from all over the world - Italian is hugely popular, I guess because of pasta being so similar to noodles, but also French patisserie, and there are Irish pubs, etc etc - but you can't beat proper, cheap and cheerful ramen, sold at a million tiny places everywhere. Eating out can be hugely expensive at high-end places, but cost very little if you eat where the locals do. We always end up bringing money back. Alcohol in fancy bars is ££££ ( or rather ¥¥¥¥) but a few beers in eg a neighbourhood Lion Beer Hall won't break the bank.

You could easily spend a month (or longer) in Tokyo, making trips out, but a week or so in Kyōto (with trips from there) would also be a good idea. It's much more spread-out than Tokyo and travelling between temples takes much longer. Personally I prefer Tokyo but that's just me....it seems livelier and buzzier and although I love visiting temples, I do get a bit templed-out after a while.

If you look for hotels in Tokyo near the big stations, you'll save time when you want to make trips out. So as a pp said, places like Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ueno. Shinjuku is a massive station with numerous large hotels in the vicinity. The challenge then is to master the geography of the station, which is virtually the size of a small town Smile

If you go any time from late September onwards, you can be edging into typhoon season, when it's still likely to be very warm and humid, but also rainy and (extremely) windy. We had a bit of a nail-biting experience once, complete with cancelled shinkansen and being stranded miles from our base, due to a typhoon, so it's something to bear in mind when choosing the time to go.

BUT having said the above, it's a wonderful, fascinating country and I can't wait to go back.

Sorry for epic post. As you can tell, I'm bit obsessed Blush

ihatethecold · 06/01/2019 12:05

wow, thanks for the extra replies. so much information. its a bit overwhelming. I guess the first decision will be what month we go in. I don't want it to be sweltering nor would I like typhoons. I lived in HK as a child and remember the typhoons very vividly.

OP posts:
Todamhottoday · 06/01/2019 15:44

As another note you dont need to buy your JR pass from a travel agent, plenty of places on line to get them from with various costs. TA in my opinion charge a premium for doing so.

When I have a moment I will check the last place I bought one from and had it delivered to my home

C8H10N4O2 · 06/01/2019 17:20

Regarding the rail pass - I get mine from here:

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