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Paris with kids - 9 and 12

33 replies

GlowWine · 25/02/2017 09:03

Hi,

I'm looking for hints and tips for Paris. I've got a guide book(rough guide) and map (Paris pratique), but finding that tips for 'paris with children' usually assumes much younger ages so they mostly list playparks and child-friendly eateries. Paris for teens goes more about shopping and pop culture which is not at all what my DC are into (yet?)
I'm coming with a nearly-teen that is uncomfortable in crowds, and a super impatient tween(?). We'll be staying near the catacombs and speak good French, comfortable with public transport and walking (though much more than 5km in a day is going to be hard for the younger one). We've got 4 full days, leaving and arriving midday/early afternoon (Sun-Fri), so I'm hoping we can do something on the first afternoon. We adults have been to Paris before (though a long time ago) so there are no must-do things for us.
So far my two big decisions are to pre-buy Louvre tickets and take the stairs at the Eiffel tower because of the crowd situation and we're not willing to commit to a timed slot for pre-booking. Those two are the must do items of this trip.

My list of possible attractions:

Tour Eiffel + environs & Musee du Quai Branly
Boat trip (better a one-off or a hop-on hop-off?)
Louvre (half day max I think)
Beaubourg/Pompidou + environs
Cite des Sciences / La Vilette / Cite de la Musique
Montmartre
Arc de Triomphe & Elysee (walking from Louvre I think)
Notre Dame (not necessarily climb the tower) ?+Sainte Chapelle
Musee D'Orsay
Musee d'histoire NAturelle

Thinking about Tour Montparnasse for the arrival afternoon/evening.
A Friend suggested Versailles as another must-do but I'm not convinced. I'd rather have a fun time than obsessively tick things of a list, so the itinerary is quite flexible and apart from Eiffel and Louvre everything is quite expendable.

Now I carefully need to balance that with Mon\Tue opening, and I'd be really keen to hear other ideas and experience, for example regarding the queues at the Beaubourg and Musee d’Orsay. I don't think a museum card makes financial sense for us at all, we'd only manage one or possibly two museums in a day, the kids just lose interest after a while, though the queue hopping sounds attractive! I also quite like the idea of a 'patisserie stop’ every afternoon to refuel.

Sorry this was a massive long post, I'd be grateful for any pointers.

OP posts:
HarrogateMum · 05/03/2017 12:44

We went at half term as my DH works there. Whilst he was at work the kids (12, 12 and 10) went exploring - we had four days. They enjoyed the Musee d'Orsay and also the Picasso museum. Funicular up to Sacre Coeur and then inside where there was a service going on so that was interesting. Notre Dame and a boat ride (we didn't do hop on hop off). Did a full day at the Science museum - recommend pre booking tickets as we had to queue for a while and that was on a Tuesday. One of their main highlights was gasping in awe at the inside of Galeries Lafayette!

HarrogateMum · 05/03/2017 12:45

Totally forgot - best bit was going up the Arc de Triomphe at night. Great views of the Eiffel tower when it's lit up and much hilarity at the craziness on the roundabout below at rush hour!

Mominatrix · 05/03/2017 13:01

We take the boys twice a year and they are of similar age to yours. Big hits with them are:

Tour Eiffel
Les Invalides (I have 2 history buffs)
Bertillon
Cite des Sciences
Boat trip down Canal St Martin from Parc de la Vilette back to Paris
Playing with boats in the Jardin de Luxembourg
Marche aux Puces de Saint Ouen - like searching for treasure
Conciergerie (again, history)
Versailles - a whole day. Best in summer as they have evening spectacles you can book. Also book the private tours of the Royal Apartments
Jardin d'Acclimatation was fun or them when they were younger.

I highly recommend the bateaubus. Very convenient and fun for the children.

GlowWine · 06/03/2017 13:29

Thanks again everyone, so many ideas and impressions now. I really can't wait, never mind the kids Grin. Arc de triomphe at night sounds inspired, I was planning for tour Montparnasse at night as well. We're staying not far from the jardin de Luxembourg, so that is a good a fall back option when we get weary of sightseeing.

OP posts:
carries · 07/03/2017 00:04

Watching this thread with interest! Loads of good ideas. We are going to a eurocamp between Paris & eurodisney in April for a week. Plan to spend at least 4 days in Paris, 1 st Disney and see how it goes after that. DDs are 12,10 & 4.

OP - there are a lot of mummy blogger out there writing about travel to Paris!

GlowWine · 10/03/2017 17:08

I'll definitely report back when we've been on our trip, but meanwhile I wanted to show you this inexpensive map I just bought, it's not detailed enough as a street map for finding your way but my kids love using it for planning the sights to see.
Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/Adventure-Walks-Paris-Map-Sightseeing/dp/0957333811/?tag=mumsnetforum-21

Paris with kids - 9 and 12
Paris with kids - 9 and 12
OP posts:
GreenGinger2 · 10/03/2017 22:11

We took that.

GlowWine · 18/09/2017 22:59

Oh dear, my apologies. I had typed this up and was sure I had posted it as well. I clearly didn’t. So here is my summary, in case it's of use for someone. And thanks for everyone’s suggestions on this thread, the trip was a success. To recap: we had 4 full days, 5 nights, in an apartment near Denfert Rochereau (so metro travel required nearly every day), 2 adults and 2 kids DD1 was 12 and DD2 was 9.
We went in the second week of April, just before Easter. Most of the fountains were still dry, to everyone’s disappointment.

We just bought metro tickets as ‘carnet’ and again for us that was the simplest and cheaper than travel cards aimed at visitors, as in general we just did one journey in the morning and one back in the afternoon. Note that you can only buy child tickets as carnets of 10 not as singles (as I was trying to do when we needed just a couple more on the last day). But apart from that, the ticket machines are very easy to use and take credit cards etc. In some Metro stations there is an awful lot of walking between platforms, just like in London, with stairs everywhere, escalators seem less common.

We did buy the Paris Museum Pass (museums only) - bought them on arrival from the tourist information kiosk at the gare du nord. You manually write in the start date, so we started them from the next day. They got us into the priority queues and I had superficially totalled up the costs of the the things we might have visited (max one museum a day) to judge whether it would be worth it, in the end the 4-day ticket cost €62 and on the door that would have cost us more like €113. Children go free.

So, yes there were security checks everywhere, even most big shops and all shopping centres had guards on the door to do a cursory bag check. At the museums there were always priority queues for ticket holders, great for us, but we were prepared and carried books / stuff to pass the time anyway. The worst queue was the Louvre, some places had hardly any or none (Musee D’orsay, Centre Pompidou).
For the Eiffel Tower you queue twice, first to get inside the security perimeter under the tower itself. That was really well organised with lots of ‘gates’ and it moved fast. Then you had to queue for the lift/stairs. We did the stairs, that still took 15/20 mins queueing. The stairs itself are totally manageable, my 9 year old skipped to the top and we saw plenty of younger kids. The second level of the Tower was massively crowded (with people queueing for the lift down or up to the third level) and DD1 got a bit distressed so we went down quite quickly again.
To get back home from there we had to take the Metro 6 - it goes overground for quite a while, including crossing the Seine and was a lovely ride.

In terms of apps etc: the Louvre app sort of worked to find my way to specific paintings we wanted to see. Another app that worked well to plan your travel on public transport is 'Next stop paris' by RATP.

In April the Centre Pompidou was still half-closed post-refurbishment, so a whole floor was closed and the pop art I had promised DD1 did not materialise. But DD2 enjoyed some of the installations and the Matisse paintings she recognised from school lessons.

Slightly off the beaten track, we all enjoyed the Musée des Plans Reliefs, it’s on the top floor of the Musée de l'Armee, a collection of models of fortified cities made in the 17th(?) century for military purposes. And if you’ve already seen all the big attractions, an interesting if somewhat mixed and varied museum is the Musee du Quai Branly. An Ethnographic collection from all corners of the globe. It has a cool art installation in the entrance, a ‘river or words’ that flows down the internal access ramp, DD2 and I had fun spotting words floating by.

Another Interesting thing was the crypt of Notre Dame, tucked away in one corner of the large space outside the cathedra. Itl has some interesting background on the development of the area, and some cool interactive screen-based exhibits to explore the cathedral building. We did not queue for the towers but went into the church, that was another fast-moving queue). Round the corner from there i sainte chapelle, that is a gorgeous building, not too busy and DD2 and I had fun examining the tiled floor in great detail - it has many animals depicted.

Amorino ice cream was a total hit. We didn't get the chance to try the Bouillon-Chartier as DD1 was happier eating at ‘home’ after having to endure crowds all day, but everyone enjoyed our outing to a local creperie on the first evening.

For a bit of fresh air, the play area (small fee) in Luxembourg Gardens was a great success with the 9 year old. It seems to be in two halves - one aimed at smaller pre-school kids and one with larger climbing frames and a superb zipwire aimed at older primary kids. Us adults sat around the perimeter where there were plenty of benches.

Travelling by Eurostar was easy and comfortable, although the departure lounge in Paris was being rebuilt/refurbished and only had a fraction of the required seats so we all sat on the floor. It may well be completed now.

And right after coming home I wanted to go again. Maybe without DD1 though, she would have been happier at home but I had no idea: she had never really engaged with the trip, until the first evening in Paris when she broke down in tears telling me how much she hated it, but that’s for a different discussion (HFASD/Aspergers).

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