"Old fashioned" northern Spain

[AuntOlive]

I would love to visit the less developed parts of Spain. The parts where old people still dress in Sunday best / it's like going back to the 50s... (apparently).

Does anyone know which parts are like that and how to travel there?

I would be travelling by train (probably via Paris) as I don't like flying.

I would need to be based somewhere where you can 'walk' around (longish walking distance ok) as I can't cope with hiring a car abroad (whenever I've tried in the past I always end up driving on the left and I'd rather not kill DC)

Although having said that it's maybe a bit far by train! The wonderful AVE high speed train does go from Girona to Seville and Cordoba (wonderful place) though.

I was living and working in a family in Asturias so the food was 100% authentic, and seemed to consist of the mother coming out brandishing a cabbage and saying "today we're having a Typical Asturian Dish! Cabbage!" and I'd be going "oh goody!"

The fish was excellent though, and we used to buy it from men selling it out of the back of cars. I still remember some white steaky fish we had that was divine, one of those dishes you remember forever. And I have no idea what it was. The consistency of tuna (so, er, steaky) but white.

The North of Spain is incredible but a world away from the South. It feels entirely different.

San Sebastian is absolutely stunning and the food is amazing BUT it is not quaint and sweet, it is one of the richest cities and the people are dressed in boho/surfer/topshop rather than the lovely look you describe.

I've seen that sort of place but they are totally inaccessable. The last place I remember like what OP describes were actually in the Valencia region - Sant Mateu (where they still take their washing to the open air washing bath house in the centre of the village!) and Morella (which is more touristy but incredible nonetheless.)

I think the fact that you can only get there by car is why they are still the way they are. The Basque Country (Biscaya near Bilbao and Guipuzkoa where San Sebastian is) is fully devolved and comparatively extremely rich, so it is much more modern.