This is an old thread - hmc, what did you decide in the end?
I have been to Mauritius several times, as we have family there, and have stayed with family and also in some hotels.
Personally I prefer the southern half of the island to the north - on the West the Belle Mar coast down to Troue d'eau douce / Tousserok , then Mahebourg, Blue Bay. Or on the S W side Les Mornes up to Tamarind. The south is far more mountainous than the North, and you can arrange to go hiking in the mountains which is a great day out - hard to research 0 there is a visitor information centre on the central plateau, Le Petrin, that gives out maps. Otherwise visit the Black River National park Centre fom Black River, you can walk up the river valley, and again there is a small conservation centre which tells you about walks. But best to walk from the top to the coast and then get a taxi back up, if you have left your car at the top.
On the central plateau - which really does have spectacular scenery, you can visit the fascinating Temple and sacred lake at Grand Bassin - walk up to the litte temple at the top for stunning views of the island.
Driving conditions are improving all the time - it's fine. But traffic through Port Louis is terrible - avoid the whole of Port Louis and the motorway s passed Pheonix at anything like rush hour.
All resort hotels are rather segregated from local life, but it's eay enough (and v safe) to get out and about. The steet snacks and food from beach vans is very good - try roti, farata, the little samosas,and especially dahl puri - and very cheap indeed. I have spent months in Mauritius and eaten from vans without problem. Also try the tiny whole pineapples they sell ready peeled as a snack.
I have never heard any member of DP's family talk of actual discrimination in visiiting anywhere. The difference in economy either side of the hotel gates would be a strong deterrent for most people on local wages, but not race or colour - it is a v v mixed islan anyway, racially, religiously and culturally.
In law there is no such thng as a private beach and anyone can use the beaches in front of hotels. In practice the hotels make this vey difficult by placing guards on the boundary, building fences down to the waters edge and removing all the shade fom the actual beach except the sun loungers (most natural and public beaches in Mauritius have trees), so that it is impossible to sit there. I always make a point of walking along the hotel beaches from the public beaches whenever we are there.