I'm a bit late in posting this, it?s taken me a couple of days- but what a fantastic birthday weekend!
We'd planned this trip a few weeks ago but had to keep putting it off. I'm so glad we did now because it was just perfect, the best trip in the campervan we've had to date.
I got the details of the driving tour from Undiscovered Scotland website, and we set out on Friday evening just after I last posted on here.
I was driving on the journey, up the A82 and for the first time in the Bongo, I was able to have a conversation with DP without having to turn round and lip-read. Talking in car journeys is something we took for granted before I lost my hearing, but impossible when deaf. It was just wonderful to be able to chat about the scenery, the roads, mountains and the lochs. Our route took us up past Crianlarich and Tyndrum, through Glencoe and Rannoch moor.
We reached the Corran Ferry (over Loch Linnhe to the Ardnamurchan Peninsula) earlier than we had anticipated and despite planning on taking it early on the morning, we jumped on it right there and then. I was talking with the ticket operator and bought our ticket with ease, whooping at the fact that I could (much to DPs embarrassment).
The ferry sounded really loud, drowning out all the other sounds, but the crossing was only about 5 minutes at the most. We disembarked and I grinned like an idiot and waved at the ticket man. We were lucky on Friday as the weather was really good, so we just carried on with our route over the single track roads of the peninsula to see how far we got.
I've never seen anything like this place, the scenery is constantly changing at every bend - just absolutely stunning. It changed from sloping hills, to lush green forest, to extinct volcanoes, with either sea lochs or freshwater lochs by the roadside.
We saw and heard sheep and cows, spotted pheasants, deer and the odd farmhouse dotted around on the way. We finally reached the end of the road about 10.30 at night, driving towards the most amazing sunset I've ever seen.
The wee place is called Sanna, which has - apparently - some of the best beaches in Scotland. Best thing about it that there was no-one else there. We went for a walk down to the beach until the light disappeared at almost midnight.
All I could hear was the breeze whistling and the turquoise water lapping gently against the white sands. It really could have been somewhere tropical. I took the processor off and had a fabulous sleep.
On Saturday morning the sky was really overcast and the forecast had been for rain, so we managed another walk down to the beach and over the rocks. At this point the wind had really picked up and I couldn?t hear anything else besides.
When we got back to the van DP gave me my birthday present. I?d not been able to give any indication of what I wanted (I?m really rubbish like that!) but was pleasantly surprised when I opened it to find a SatNav. I was even more surprised that I could hear the directions as I programmed it, it?s fantastic. That wouldn?t have been possible not so long ago and it must have been a bit of a worry for DP that I would be able to understand it. So, we set it for Ardnamurchan Point and headed on our way back down the single track road. I felt really happy, at the fact that I was here with DP and that it was an end to quite a difficult year.
By this time, the rain was really bouncing loudly off the roof of the van and the windscreen wipers are needing replaced. They?re scraping against the windscreen, funny how things like that are becoming quite tedious. I had to laugh at myself for getting annoyed at the noise though.
After a coffee at Ardnamurchan lighthouse, we continued on our route back the way we came, but turning left after 20 miles to cxontinue North up by the Sound of Arisaig. We were running low on diesel at his point so decided to keep going until we found a filling station.
Despite the inclement weather we were just stunned by how beautiful the road was, even though we were quickly heading for the empty mark! We found one of the limitations of the SatNav is that it doesn?t store info about really small independent filling stations, so we just had to keep looking for the ?services? signs. By this time it was 6pm and we?d reached the end of the road at Mallaig ? only to find a petrol station that had shut an hour earlier!
Bit of a strange place is Mallaig, it seems the only point to its existence is the ferry terminal to the isles and a fishing port. Consequently the locals have a kinda Royston Vaseyness about them. My apologies to anyone who lives in Mallaig, btw. I?ve been there twice and it?s been the same both times.
Since we were stuck in the area until the garage opened at 10am on Sunday, DP decided it would be nice to have my birthday meal there. We checked out a couple of places and decided on one which looked quite busy. I won?t name it on here, just in case anyone owns/frequents or cooks there, but I have to say that it was one of the worst meals I?ve had in my life. At £18.50 for a main course it wasn?t cheap either! After trying to persevere with the rock hard potatoes, the soggy veg and the ?fillet steak? as tender as an old boot, I sent it back. We?d already had starters and I?d been thoroughly scunnered by the whole thing. I?d also ordered ?chef?s own pink peppercorn sauce? which I thought might improve things. It cost £1.50 and I actually laughed when the waitress brought out the smallest ramekin I?ve ever seen, there was about a spoonful of sauce in it!
DP was mortified and we just asked for the bill, worried that they?d spit in our desserts if we went there. So the bill came back and it still had my main course on it. I couldn?t believe it when I was summoned to the kitchen and actually had to argue with the chef that my meal was in fact inedible. He must have though I was a raving loony, but I actually got a bit of a buzz from the whole thing. Before the implant I would have just accepted the sub-standard food and gone and left upset and disappointed. I?ve never heard of having to debate the quality of food served to me with the person who cooked it, but I felt a quiet satisfaction when he eventually relented and took my main course off the bill. Not such good publicity for him either, he was waving a packet of uncooked steaks in my face and shouting for the whole dining room to hear.
We decided to drive as far away from Mallaig as our fuel would allow, worried that we may get attacked by a psychotic chef during the night if we stayed anywhere near the village. We drove a little way back down the road to the Silver Sands of Morar, another series of fantastic little beaches hidden from view by rolling sand dunes.
We went for a walk over the beaches at night, decked out in waterproofs and a hat. The rain was really hammering down and just after we got back to the van DP decided to go to bed, whilst I read a book. I kept the processor on even though there was no-one about for miles and nothing to hear except the rain bouncing off the roof!
The nest day brought more rain (getting a bit sick of this noise now!) and we headed back up to Mallaig to get some diesel ? and then promptly did a U-turn back down towards Glenfinnan. This time DP was driving so I was able to take in the scenery (what we could see of it under the fog!). I even enjoyed listening to the SatNav woman telling us to turn right, left or keep going. It?s such a beautiful place but we?ll definitely go back when the weather is better! A wee stop off at Glenfinnan monument and a paddle in Loch Shiel, then we were on our way towards Fort William.
I?d picked up some tourist guides in Mallaig, and one suggested a 45 minute hike up through a gorge at the base of Ben Nevis, to the An Steall waterfall and a three wire bridge. Walking through the gorge was fantastic, and because it had been raining so hard all weekend, the river was really crashing through the rapids with the sound echoing off the sides. I really got a sense of how small I was in amongst all this. The waterfall at the top was just spectacular, and of course I had to attempt to cross the three wire bridge (not a good idea as the river was in spate), which was terrifying. I did get a round of applause from German tourists on the bank who were watching in fascination - bewildered that someone would be so reckless no doubt!
DP was lovely and suggested we postponed my birthday meal until the Sunday, and by the time we got back to the van and drove back to Fort William we were ready for dinner. We picked out the award winning restaurant from the visitor guide, anxious not to repeat the same mistake. The Crannog was fully booked but we got a table on the premise that we?d be out in an hour to let another booking in. It was fabulous being able to order my dinner myself, ask the waitress for things and be able to hear her on the first attempt. I?m really noticing a difference with how I interact with strangers and it?s a lot less stressful for DP as well. When I couldn?t hear at all, I was having to rely on everyone so much just for those basic things that we all take for granted. It?s quite a blow to the self ?esteem being so reliant on others. I felt quite vulnerable a lot of the time.
The meal was perfect in every way: the setting, being able to chat to DP with ease; and thinking about how much my life has changed over the past few weeks.
For all these reasons, it was one of the best weekends of my life, but the best gift of them all is having been given my hearing back.