Ok back with a coffee.
I used to work in horticulture and have had more than my fair share of bad composts, from one bag that was so rancid it killed off everything people put in it [I wasn't there to stop them, but I had bought it so it was on me to resolve - it was basically fresh horse manure in the bag]...to bags of basically woodchip that had hardly begun to degrade.
The industry although warned were not prepared enough and have not sourced enough non peat materials to make decent compost IMHO. I suspect their thinking is that if enough people complain they can maybe get a reprieve but who knows. This attitude worked with herbicides and pesticides decade after decade.
So for home made compost - I make leaf mould, normal dalek type compost and wormery compost. I also have a number of tumblers.
I put kitchen scraps into the tumblers and balance that with shredded paper or cardboard. Once they are kind of all black [every 3-4 months] I tip it out and share it out between all 3 trays of my wormery, that means the wormery finishes it off and does it pretty quickly. I then keep that aside to mix with the leaf mould.
The main dalek type compost gets spread on top of veggie beds, and it breaks down over winter and gets mixed in when I prep the bed for planting out. Anything still woody or large gets taken out and put back into a dalek. I get alot of seedlings growing out of this so they get pulled out usually when I'm weeding or prepping.
By the time the leaf mould is ready, which is usually 18 months after collecting the leaves, it has had some worm activity just by the nature of worms finding their way in, so it already has some nutrients in it. I mix it with the worm compost probably about 2/3 leaf mould and 1/3 worm compost. I often just use the leaf mould for potting general stuff, if it is quite dark, and save the wormery stuff to use on the fruiting plants [tomatoes, peppers, melons etc].
I often have to actually cut the leaf mould down rather than bump it up for nutrition, and for that I use coir blocks. So I'll sieve leaf mould into a large container and then add a block of coir and then mix it up a week or so later when I am due to use it. If you leave the leaf mould another year, and sieve it [this is important it seems] you get a much better nutrient level, rather than use it too soon which gives you a lower nutrient level.
I usually find if I collect leaves by mowing them up in October/November year 0, and sieve it the next autumn year 1, and put the sieved stuff seperate from the stuff retained in the sieve [which goes back into the leaf mould area], that's when the worms come and do their thing. If I don't sieve it, and the sticks and branches that end up in the mix somehow delay the process. I then use it spring year 2.
There are companies that have spent years making peat free compost, but it is much more labour intensive than just digging peat up, so it will be more expensive. Vital Earth used to make a great one, Melcourt make a fantastic range, and New Horizon were a less pricey option [not sure about now]. Dalefoot make a wool and bracken one, which apparently is very good [I couldn't use it as allergic to the lanolin]. Fertile Fibre was the best though, very expensive but I used to enjoy when I had to use this one for workshops and training as it was certified for organic use, a real treat.