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Gardening

Find tips and tricks to make your garden or allotment flourish on our Gardening forum.

Rotavate, weedkill then cover or weedkill, rotavate, cover?

14 replies

bobkate · 13/05/2018 17:57

Hoping to get some advice on how best to clear this area. It was turned over back in november and we stupidly didn't do anything with it then. So now, all the remnants of grass is sprouting back, plus the ground elder...
We have bought some weedol ultra tough weed killer and plan to set about it next week. What I'd like to know is how best to go about it.
Should we rotavate it all first, then weedkill it or weedkill then rotavate it?
After that we think it would be best to cover in plastic sheeting for a few months to prevent further growth until we are ready to sort it properly. We have brought some thick plastic damp proof stuff, but now I"m wondering what is better...that or something like this weed membrane stuff? The plastic sheeting won't let any water through, but I'm worried about it puddling on top...but is the membrane stuff better even if it does let the water through?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Rotavate, weedkill then cover or weedkill, rotavate, cover?
Rotavate, weedkill then cover or weedkill, rotavate, cover?
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Juanitajune · 13/05/2018 18:29

What do you ultimately plan to do with it? Is it a veg patch or going to be a lawn?

bobkate · 13/05/2018 19:00

It will be mainly lawn with a small area of patio in front of the blue stripey shed.

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JellySlice · 13/05/2018 19:15

We did chemical first, then mechanical. Definitely weed membrane, not waterproof plastic. Might also like to dig in, or at least spread, some composted manure before covering with the membrane, followed by bark chippings over the membrane. Next year you will have excellent soft soil.

When you're ready to plant, you can either strip back the membrane as you plant, or cut through the membrane to plant individual plants.

The bark chippings keep the membrane from being blown around, and also look nicer than bare membrane.

bobkate · 13/05/2018 19:27

Thank you jellyslice do we have to leave it a year?

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TalkinPeece · 13/05/2018 19:29

)))))weedkiller(((((
))))Rotavators(((((
Old carpet is your friend
no need to pollute the soil with anything nasty

bobkate · 13/05/2018 19:49

I had read to not use old carpet...plus haven't got any. Just googled weed control fabric and it's working out v expensive for how much we'd need Sad. I understand the point at not polluting the soil, but the ground elder really is everywhere and we just need to blitz the whole thing. Really I would love for someone to come in with a digger and dumped trick. Remove the offending soil and replace with beautiful topsoil.....but that is a pipe dream!

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bobkate · 13/05/2018 19:49

Dumped trick??!! Dumper truck!

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Flisspaps · 13/05/2018 19:51

I've read in various places not to use old carpet either.

TalkinPeece · 13/05/2018 19:52

Old hessian backed carpet is fine
its the plastic shite to avoid

gound elder does not cope with mowing
so lawn the area

bobkate · 13/05/2018 20:11

Thank you. I don't fancy removing old mouldy heavy carpet after we're done with it either, so would prefer the sheeting.

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JellySlice · 13/05/2018 20:30

You don't need to leave it for a year, thats just what we did. Our soil was dreadful: hard, with no earthworms, just weeds. A year later, when I was ready to start planting, we had lovely, soft, earthworm-rich soil.

When do you want to make your lawn? And do you want to seed or turf it? I dont know much about starting lawns from scratch, but I'm fairly sure they're better started in autumn than in spring, which gives you six months to prepare the ground. 6m might not be long enough for the earthworms to take manure down, and you might have to dig it in, rather than leave it on the surface.

bobkate · 13/05/2018 20:37

Thanks Jelly I would think the autumn would be about right for us to start. Depending on what budget is left from our build will determine if we turf or seed!
Great idea about adding the manure. Thanks again.

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Onesmallstepforaman · 15/05/2018 16:32

If you weedkill with a good total weedkiller allow it to work and for the soil to be clear of any residual trace of chemicals, I always reckoned six weeks before sowing grass seed. rotavation, levelling and consolidation is important to the long-term levels of the lawn, so ensure you heel and rake a couple of times. Aim to sow in September, this will allow good germination and establishment before winter. Choose your seed mix according to what you want the lawn for. Kids play area=dwarf perennial ryegrass. High standard ornamental lawn= fescue/bent. Seed will cost pence/m2, turf pounds.

bobkate · 16/05/2018 22:40

That sounds great - thank you onesmall appreciate the tips. We have kids and dogs so I'm guessing dwarf perennial ryegrass will be our choice!

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