There is no such thing as too many bulbs. It is like too many books, or too much money. 
My best bit of advice is not to worry. If you get it wrong, you can just move them. Every single autumn I do a major shifting round of my borders because something really isn't in the right place. Things grow and get bigger than you anticipate - sometimes other things die unfortunately - or the light or conditions change due to something like a tree around your garden getting taller. So don't worry too much about getting it perfect! One of the most difficult things about planting spring bulbs is that we have to do it at a time when the garden is in full swing, and when they are out, so much that is full right now, will be empty because of the natural cycle of herbaceous perennials retreating below the ground!
First thing to say - not all of those things come out at once, so you might want to think about pairing them. Snowdrops will be long gone by the time tulips are out. So if you want sustained interest until herbaceous perennials start poking through, a combination is probably in order (I was out late last night planting snowdrops, early daffs, late daffs and small alliums in the same patch of ground).
Second thing - don't put tulips in deep shade, they mostly like sun! So under trees may not be ideal, esp for later varieties. Daffs tend to prefer sun (or at least only partial shade) as well - the reason you can often get away with these under trees, however, is that the early/mid season ones try to get flowering out of the way before the leaves come out! Also, some of them are just tough - they manage to flower in my north-facing and heavily shaded garden even though conditions are hardly ideal.
Third - don't estimate how big a clump you need for it to have impact. Also, the planting distances for some bulbs are often ideal for optimum growing conditions in the longer term, not optimum display in the first year! With things like crocuses, they can look a bit lonely for the first 2 years when strictly spaced at the 'correct' intervals'. Soon, however, the bulbs start to multiply.
Alliums are great with roses. Not only do they look good, but they repel some common rose pests. They can also look brilliant if you have the earlier varieties of rose in sympathetic colours to purple. Otherwise, they provide some interest while your rose revs up for action.
The only thing I would say about your circle bed idea is that these work brilliantly when you can see them from all sides. If you are looking predominantly from one side, or you have a very fixed point of view, the stuff behind the tall things in the middle can get a bit lost. This is absolutely not a 'don't do it' but more of a 'think about your angles of viewing' bit of advice.
And yeah, do list your allium types. Those collections usually include caeruleum (tight blue spheres, from mid June, 50cm), moly (May-June, 15-20cm, bright yellow and more messy flowers), Everest (May-June, white, tall 90cm, big elegant spheres) purple sensation (purple, 40cm, neat spheres, May-June), christophii (late June-July, lilac, 40cm, large loose spheres) sphaerocephalon (July-August oval/drumstick, 70-80cm, dark purple). Purple sensation, christophii, spaerocephalon flower in virtual sequence from each other and are similarish in height in a border - good for the mid-section. Moly, being much smaller, often looks a bit better at the front but is quite a big contrast with the purple so maybe keep it away? Roseum is a lovely one if you have some of that - I think it looks good at the front when turning corners (some plants just do that, hakkonachloea is another one).