Indoor climbing

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How long is average to pass NICAS level 1?

Don't think there is an 'average'
People learn things at different rates.
People have different 'natural abilities'
Some people are able to go regularly, and some not as much.
Some people are starting from scratch, and others might have been doing bits here and there for a long time.
Some people might not be particularly aiming for / focused upon gaining 'awards'.

It really depends on both the child and the instructor. My eldest completed level 1 in about 6 weeks, and probably could have done it quicker as he is a natural, but by the time by next one started at training the instructors were much stricter and it took her about twice that. (Sept-Christmas) She had been climbing for a number of years before she started NICAS (we lived abroad so no NICAS there) and was just as able as my eldest was, but the instructors just took a lot longer.

Both of mine had then completed level 3 by the age of 10 and frustratingly weren't allowed to start on level 4 because they were too young so we're totally left in limbo. DC1 got a place on the youth squad so found another way to climb, but DC2 lost interest and has all but given up the sport which is so frustrating.

I'll be honest and say I yearn for the days of us being back in our US climbing gym where the focus was on individual achievement and enjoyment - not ticking boxes in a bloody book. I have 4 natural climbers but at present only 1 is actually climbing because of the way our "centre of excellence" structures things so rigidly around NICAS. I'm really not a fan! (Sorry - rant over!)

Our son is a fearless climber but also is a reluctant writer. Unfortunately this has hindered him getting Level 1 despite attending for 2 hours a week termtime and 4/6 hours in school holidays.

I hear your frustration - as I said above - I'm really not a fan. It's a good system if you want to go down the route of proper qualifications, but it doesn't work for every child and I have definitely seen how rigidly sticking to it can really cause a hindrance to the pure love and enjoyment of the sport.

Jedbartletforpresident the pre-NICAS climbing at our local place was rubbish - no tuition at all really, and I'd hoped that once DD is 7 and NICAS was an option it would be better, but it doesn't sound promising!

Is the bouldering any different do you know - less focus on rope and safety work, and more on actual climbing skills?

In our centre they do very little bouldering during nicas classes (virtually none) which is disappointing. Nicas also doesn't start until age 8 and so my youngest two who have just turned 7 still have another year to wait before they can even attend and try it out! (Like you the pre-nicas group is pretty pathetic - mostly standing around watching others and very little actual climbing. Plus it's only available middle of the day on Saturday which is totally impractical)

My eldest does a fair amount of bouldering during youth squad training and he enjoys it a great deal. He is also being pushed onto much harder climbs now which is great too. You have to be last year of primary though to be considered for squad so my middle one can't even try out for the squad for another year - hence why I have only 1 out of 4 dc climbing just now!

Ah, I thought 7, NICAS is even further away! I wondered if there was a completely different bouldering route to training, DD responds very well to instruction, and is a pretty natural climber, but there's just nothing around in that direction yet.

Thanks for the update!

Where dc climbs you can do both nicas and nibas. Often they do both bouldering and ropes in 1 session. dc not really bothered with the actual levels (never enrolled in NICAS) but I agree there is a sticking point after level 3 due to age restrictions.